escee
Active member
... than non-figured koa? Just wondering ....
It looks better, that's for sure!
Any thoughts?
Stephen
It looks better, that's for sure!
Any thoughts?
Stephen
I find that the more simple the grain pattern is, the stiffer the wood is likely to be. That's a good thing when choosing a good tone wood. Highly figured wood tends to be "floppy" and somewhat less responsive. The grain in a piece of curly wood looks like a sound wave, or a roller coaster, with as much end grain as straight grain showing. That's what gives it it's unique chatoyancy, but it's not as strong or as stiff as straight grain. Many times a very curly piece of koa, for instance, will have to be slightly thicker to overcome it's lack of strength. A good builder will know how to compensate for it. I think curly wood can sound as good as more plain wood, but seldom, if ever, better. Even the color can give me a clue as to how a piece of koa will sound and I have found that my most lively, responsive koa ukes tend to be lighter in color with minimal figure. Generally, a good tone wood should be strong, stiff and light weight. Unfortunately everyone seems to want the most curly koa available. I always recommend people settle for a balance between form and function when it comes to wood selection.
One caveat, I find that extremely tight fiddle back is quite a bit stiffer than more randomly wider spaced curly koa, such as you'd see in "crotch" or "compression" curl. Of course it's the most expensive as well. These are all generalities of course and there are exceptions to everything I've mentioned, especially when it concerns koa.
I find that the more simple the grain pattern is, the stiffer the wood is likely to be. That's a good thing when choosing a good tone wood. Highly figured wood tends to be "floppy" and somewhat less responsive. The grain in a piece of curly wood looks like a sound wave, or a roller coaster, with as much end grain as straight grain showing. That's what gives it it's unique chatoyancy, but it's not as strong or as stiff as straight grain. Many times a very curly piece of koa, for instance, will have to be slightly thicker to overcome it's lack of strength. A good builder will know how to compensate for it. I think curly wood can sound as good as more plain wood, but seldom, if ever, better. Even the color can give me a clue as to how a piece of koa will sound and I have found that my most lively, responsive koa ukes tend to be lighter in color with minimal figure. Generally, a good tone wood should be strong, stiff and light weight. Unfortunately everyone seems to want the most curly koa available. I always recommend people settle for a balance between form and function when it comes to wood selection.
One caveat, I find that extremely tight fiddle back is quite a bit stiffer than more randomly wider spaced curly koa, such as you'd see in "crotch" or "compression" curl. Of course it's the most expensive as well. These are all generalities of course and there are exceptions to everything I've mentioned, especially when it concerns koa.
That makes sense ... it's just kind of interesting how people usually consider figured woods better, hence the more expensive prices. Thanks for explaining!
I find that the more simple the grain pattern is, the stiffer the wood is likely to be. That's a good thing when choosing a good tone wood. Highly figured wood tends to be "floppy" and somewhat less responsive. The grain in a piece of curly wood looks like a sound wave, or a roller coaster, with as much end grain as straight grain showing. That's what gives it it's unique chatoyancy, but it's not as strong or as stiff as straight grain. Many times a very curly piece of koa, for instance, will have to be slightly thicker to overcome it's lack of strength. A good builder will know how to compensate for it. I think curly wood can sound as good as more plain wood, but seldom, if ever, better. Even the color can give me a clue as to how a piece of koa will sound and I have found that my most lively, responsive koa ukes tend to be lighter in color with minimal figure. Generally, a good tone wood should be strong, stiff and light weight. Unfortunately everyone seems to want the most curly koa available. I always recommend people settle for a balance between form and function when it comes to wood selection.
One caveat, I find that extremely tight fiddle back is quite a bit stiffer than more randomly wider spaced curly koa, such as you'd see in "crotch" or "compression" curl. Of course it's the most expensive as well. These are all generalities of course and there are exceptions to everything I've mentioned, especially when it concerns koa.
I find that the more simple the grain pattern is, the stiffer the wood is likely to be. That's a good thing when choosing a good tone wood. Highly figured wood tends to be "floppy" and somewhat less responsive. The grain in a piece of curly wood looks like a sound wave, or a roller coaster, with as much end grain as straight grain showing. That's what gives it it's unique chatoyancy, but it's not as strong or as stiff as straight grain. Many times a very curly piece of koa, for instance, will have to be slightly thicker to overcome it's lack of strength. A good builder will know how to compensate for it. I think curly wood can sound as good as more plain wood, but seldom, if ever, better. Even the color can give me a clue as to how a piece of koa will sound and I have found that my most lively, responsive koa ukes tend to be lighter in color with minimal figure. Generally, a good tone wood should be strong, stiff and light weight. Unfortunately everyone seems to want the most curly koa available. I always recommend people settle for a balance between form and function when it comes to wood selection.
One caveat, I find that extremely tight fiddle back is quite a bit stiffer than more randomly wider spaced curly koa, such as you'd see in "crotch" or "compression" curl. Of course it's the most expensive as well. These are all generalities of course and there are exceptions to everything I've mentioned, especially when it concerns koa.
I find that the more simple the grain pattern is, the stiffer the wood is likely to be. That's a good thing when choosing a good tone wood. Highly figured wood tends to be "floppy" and somewhat less responsive. The grain in a piece of curly wood looks like a sound wave, or a roller coaster, with as much end grain as straight grain showing. That's what gives it it's unique chatoyancy, but it's not as strong or as stiff as straight grain. Many times a very curly piece of koa, for instance, will have to be slightly thicker to overcome it's lack of strength. A good builder will know how to compensate for it. I think curly wood can sound as good as more plain wood, but seldom, if ever, better. Even the color can give me a clue as to how a piece of koa will sound and I have found that my most lively, responsive koa ukes tend to be lighter in color with minimal figure. Generally, a good tone wood should be strong, stiff and light weight. Unfortunately everyone seems to want the most curly koa available. I always recommend people settle for a balance between form and function when it comes to wood selection.
One caveat, I find that extremely tight fiddle back is quite a bit stiffer than more randomly wider spaced curly koa, such as you'd see in "crotch" or "compression" curl. Of course it's the most expensive as well. These are all generalities of course and there are exceptions to everything I've mentioned, especially when it concerns koa.
FWIW, the grain of your Kamaka is pretty consistent with those that I have found to sound best. Of the five that I've owned, these are the keepers.
View attachment 66257
Nice quiver of K's there Marielle
FWIW, the grain of your Kamaka is pretty consistent with those that I have found to sound best. Of the five that I've owned, these are the keepers.
View attachment 66257
I searched this forum for figured Koa before posting today, and saw that your Kamakas were as plain as mine. You called two of them "unsightly", so I figured I was in good company.
Figured or not, my Kamaka has really come to life since Friday. There isn't anything about it that I can find fault with. After reading Chuck Moore's comments, the lack of figuring is fine with me. Thanks Chuck! Actually, the cruddy plastic nut and saddle have to go, but there's time for that.