How do guys you make your bridges?

Vic D

Vic D

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My the saddle slot on my first bridges with a dremel bit... that didn't work so hot. Now I'm using an 1/8th inch bit in a trim router... it's working out alright I reckon. For concerts and tenors though I'll want a thinner saddle. If any of youz use a table saw blade like I'm thinking, what size blade and how do you set it up? How do you guys make your bridges and cut the saddle slots, and what aspects of the bridge form do you think are important on a uke.
 
Hi Vic..I did this "Slideshow" last year on Martin Soprano style bridge making...It may not be the style of bridge you want :D but you may get some ideas from it.
Just click on the image.
 
Is there a way to slow down the slide show? I looked around and didn't find it. I want to view some of the pics in more detail and I was getting dizzy as they kept cycling through :)
 
I do use a table saw to cut the saddle slot. I have two blades, one with a 1/8" kerf and the other with a 3/32" one. I make the blank slightly oversize and around 24" long. I cut the slot in the blank, cut the bridge from the blank, and use my belt sander to bring the bridge down to its final dimensions.

Brad
 
You could get a 1/16th router bit and make two passes. I've bought that size with a 1/4" shank from Rockler
 
ksquine said:
You could get a 1/16th router bit and make two passes. I've bought that size with a 1/4" shank from Rockler
Click to expand...

This might be asking a bit much of a 1/16" bit in a hard material such as ebony. I've boroken a few in the past just doing shallow inlay work.

I'm cutting my saddle slots all at 1/8" right now on the TS. This works fine for bridge designs that incorporate the slot all the way through the length of the bridge. In the future I will be making a jig and use a router to plunge cut the slot for an inset saddle. I think it makes for a more tidy look.
 
if you make a bridge you do not like it is never a very good idea to burn them
 
I use my miniature table saw, two passes on a 1 millimeter blade makes room for the bone blanks I use. Of course this gives a slot going all the way through, as Dom said an inset saddle does look better in some cases. I did make an inset saddle on a tenor earlier this year, I sort of faked it with a handheld Proxxon (sturdy "Dremel") and with some sweat it turned out good.

Sven
 
Dom,
I clicked on the "NEXT" button and this seemed to bypass the slide show and I was then able to manually go from picture to picture.

~ Clem
 
For my "Classical" style bridge I cut everything on the table saw. Make the cross cuts first to define where the wings start, then the saddle slot and trough between the tie block and saddle area.

I've got a 6" blade designed for batter powered mini skill saws that trim carpenter use for architrave etc. It's got a 2 mm kerf. I also tilt the saddle back 9 degrees. Tip from Rick Turner.

For a stopped saddle slot like steel string acoustics I have a jig that holds the bridge blank and I use a laminate trimmer with solid carbide bits in various sizes. Depends on what I'm wanting to do.
 
9 degrees? Do you mean you have the saddle slanting backwards in a tilted slot? I would love to see a picture.

Sven
 
Timbuck said:
Click on the bottom right of the image and a "stop start" feature appears...It was missing before.
Click to expand...

Thanks for fixing it up. I was totally missing that you were actually cutting the saddle slot with the BS. It goes without saying that we should all keep our tools tuned up for maximun accuracy but even more so in this application. I could see me cutting the slots crooked or something.

I admire your ability to make up all the jigs etc. you use in your process. Great stuff.
 
Thank you everyone, that gives me a lot to go by. I had to watch the slide show about 5 times as I'm kinda up in the clouds but it sunk in.
Yep I've been thinking about that slanted saddle, I like the way Rick does his necks and headstock too... just need more tools.
 
Sven said:
9 degrees? Do you mean you have the saddle slanting backwards in a tilted slot? I would love to see a picture.

Sven
Click to expand...

Yes, the saddle is slanting backwards 9 degrees off perpendicular to the top. This has the effect of the strings driving it deeper into the saddle slot, and on to a pickup if installed. If it's straight up and down ie. 90 degrees to the top, then it has a tendency to want to roll forward.

It's a bunch of little things that all add up to making a superior instrument. I hop to live long enough to figure out most of them.
 
Thanks for the details, in my mind 9 degrees is quite much. But I will make a drawing and look and see.
 
Interesting, the instructions for installing a Mi Si pickup suggest shaping the bottom of the saddle so it slants towards the front of the bridge.
 
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