harbor freight trim router and other power tools

UkeforJC

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Dear all,
I have a couple questions about power tools. I have very little experience with wood working. So I need some help from you guys.

Has anyone has experience with the harbor freight trim router?
http://www.harborfreight.com/power-tools/routers/1-4-quarter-inch-trim-router-44914.html
Is this router good and useful for building a Stewmac kit?
By the way, can router generally be used as laminate trimmer? I am guessing that different router bits serve for different job. Is it correct?

Another question is. I am planning to get a power saw to cut laminate wood for making the Body assembly jig. (as instructed in Stewmac kit manual)
Is jig saw better or reciprocating saw better for this job.

If any of you can give me some advice on these power tools, that will be great.
Thank you for your input.
 
PMed ya about the router, my experience was good, did the job just fine and was very inexpensive. If you're going to build many many ukes, it may not last forever being a HF tool, but I think mine will last a few ukes at least, and probably longer since thats all I will use it for.

Just be careful with the body assembly jig...I know a few other people have posted that they had problems with the body wiggling around in it while building. I added a few dowels around the upper and lower bouts to help hold it still, but if you have the means, I would just build a proper building form to surround the entire body and keep it perfect the whole time. If not, then do like i did and add some other supports around the body! See my post to see what I mean...
 
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Warning about that router...it has the very dangerous habit of allowing bits to loosen and creep out of the collet while spinning around at really fast speeds. Best case is your channel is ruined, worst case is a 911 call and a trip to the ER. I would not recommend it. A recon Bosch Colt PR20 kit can be purchased for ~$85 w/shipping from Bosch here: http://www.cpotools.com/factory-reconditioned-bosch-pr20evsk-rt-colt-variable-speed-palm-router-kit/bshrpr20evsk-rt,default,pd.html?start=1&cgid=bosch-reconditioned-routers
Out of 3 routers I own I find I use it 90% of the time. It is a very nice tool and worth the extra money.

A jig saw definitely preferred over a reciprocating saw but a circular saw and a straight edge guide (straight board clamped to your stock for the saw to ride against) will be the best for a clean straight edge. For the StewMac jig you could just get the store to cut your plywood to the dimension you need. Home Depot and Lowe's do this if you ask nicely. If you plan to get into making instruments a bandsaw would be an option worth looking into. You can do most any cut with one and it's safer than most other saws. Check Craigslist for a newer 12" Craftsman bandsaw. There's one on Dan Diego CL listed yesterday for $150. I would offer them $75 and not go over $100. (I have that exact saw and it will tune up very nicely)
 
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Definitive recommended the Bosch Colt had mine for a year and no problems, use it for bindings exclusively.
Cheap tools are not a bargain and I speak form much experience!
 
I have that trim router and it's ok. I've used it to route binding channels in 8 ukes and the saddle channel in some bridges; to trim the top and back flush with the sides, so far so good. I did notice right off the bat that when tightening the bit it seemed like I wasn't happy with the way it grabbed the bit until I tightened it really snug... and that's not good. Also, the adjustment gear is cheap plastic with too much slack and that will wear out soon I'm sure. Eventually I'll pick up a couple porter cable or bosch but at the time it was like 10 bucks used on ebay, so, you know.
 
I've got 2 of those routers. One has been run very hard, creating radius dishes. I had to repair wiring after running it for an hour straight but that was kinda extreme. I liked it enough to buy a second one that is dedicated to a binding jig. Never had any problems with loose bits. I've got several other routers for various tasks as well but no real problems with the HF trim routers.
 
For 25 bucks, sounds like the HF lam trimmer is hard to beat. Should be a step up in power from a Dremel (which are little work horses btw). The router bits will be the bigger part of the investment.
As for power saws, my recommendation would be a band saw. Get a good one with good blades and learn proper setup. They are very versatile. Think a jig saw would just be too slow for what you want to do. They are mostly good for making fine line cuts on thin stock. The hand held reciprocal saws are really only good for their portability IMHO.
Power tools make things easy. With a shop full of power tools my greatest rewards are always accomplished when hand tools are used for the job.
Good luck with the project. Please keep us posted.
Fred
 
Dear everyone..
I really appreciate all your input.

Please allow me to ask a very ignorant question.
SO..
Does a router, like Bosch Colt Router sold at StewMac, can serve as a laminate trimmer?
I am guessing (base on my poor understanding) that it depends on what kind of bit I insert.
If I insert like a 1/4" or 1/2" straight bit, then the router can be used to trim the top and the back of the uke?

Is this correct?
Thank you all for your time.

PS, right now, I actually decided to choose between Bosch Colt Router and Dremel 4000.
So hard to decide, since they are not exatly the same kind of tools.
 
Dremel has 1.6 amps and limits you to 1/8" max collet. Tons of attachments, great for fine work. Flush trim router bits with 1/8" shank don't exist. You would have to get an attachment to flush trim with it like the StewMac one here: http://www.stewmac.com/shop/Bindings,_trim/Tools_for_cutting_binding_channels/Binding_Router_Guide.html

Bosch Colt has more power at 5.7 amps, is a combination laminate trimmer and router depending on the type of bit you use with it. It can handle most small to medium routing jobs. Max collet is 1/4" but can be stepped down to 1/8". Bits are widely available to do whatever you need it to do with it.

In an ideal world you need both tools. I use my Dremel more for precision work with Carbide end mills and drum sanders and use it a bunch for household repair, general fixit stuff and it makes a great dog nail trimmer. I use my Colt for hogging off wood, flush trim work and any routing requiring deep mortise work. If you are limited to one choice I would get the Dremel and attachments. If you plan to continue building instruments or get into other woodworking put a Colt on your shopping list too.

As far as using Harbor Freight (Central Machinery)/Homier/insert knockoff tool company name here/etc tools or not...it's up to you. Someone had to work to produce that tool. Gotta wonder what the working conditions were and how he/she lives.

“The bitter taste of poor quality remains much longer than the sweet taste of a low price.”
 
There is nothing special about a "laminate trimmer" versus a router. They are just smaller and less horsepower than conventional routers and at the max will take a 1/4" shank bit versus many full size routers which take up to a 1/2" shank bit. In bit diameters greater than 1/4 the 1/2" shank results in less chatter and less deflection of the bit while routing.

I also rarely by HF power tools. Certainly nothing that needs to be accurate like a router. I have a Ryobi lam. trimmer that works well but Bosch makes great stuff and would much prefer that.

I have not used this one but have considered it in the past. It has been on sale at Rockler before and is on sale now at Woodcraft. It is a palmsize plunge router which is a slick combination. http://www.woodcraft.com/Product/2080751/29891/Trend-T4-11-HP-VS-Plunge-Router.aspx
 
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I have the Trend laminate trimmer and I've been happy with it so far. It's the only affordable trimmer I've found that has a plunge function. It is dedicated only to making bridges. The other trimmers I have are all Rigid and I've had good luck with them. I buy them only because they are readily available to me at Home Depot (I live on an island with few options) and they'll exchange them if I ever have problems with them (it's happened once.)
Here's a cool money saving tip. You'll find that many of these rotary tools are best used when dedicated to one function, it's just so much easier. I'd advise buying one or two laminate trimmers that work well for you and then buying a bunch of bases for them. There are web sites that sell bases for just about any router and they are affordable. That way you can have many jigs with bases attached to them and just keep moving your router around to your various jigs.
 
Here's a cool money saving tip. You'll find that many of these rotary tools are best used when dedicated to one function, it's just so much easier. I'd advise buying one or two laminate trimmers that work well for you and then buying a bunch of bases for them. There are web sites that sell bases for just about any router and they are affordable. That way you can have many jigs with bases attached to them and just keep moving your router around to your various jigs.
Check out Pat Warner's website for great aftermarket bases and info. His Router book(s) should be required reading for new woodworkers.
http://www.patwarner.com/index.html
http://www.patwarner.com/pr20_subbase.html
 
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I have the Trend laminate trimmer and I've been happy with it so far. It's the only affordable trimmer I've found that has a plunge function. It is dedicated only to making bridges. The other trimmers I have are all Rigid and I've had good luck with them. I buy them only because they are readily available to me at Home Depot (I live on an island with few options) and they'll exchange them if I ever have problems with them (it's happened once.)
Here's a cool money saving tip. You'll find that many of these rotary tools are best used when dedicated to one function, it's just so much easier. I'd advise buying one or two laminate trimmers that work well for you and then buying a bunch of bases for them. There are web sites that sell bases for just about any router and they are affordable. That way you can have many jigs with bases attached to them and just keep moving your router around to your various jigs.

Bridges were what I was think the trend might be really good for. And sorry to hear about that whole "island thing". That must be very difficult for you. I'll keep you in my prayers.... :p
 
Bridges were what I was think the trend might be really good for. And sorry to hear about that whole "island thing". That must be very difficult for you. I'll keep you in my prayers.... :p
Now THAT'S funny! Never mind the prayers however, send me chocolate. See's assorted, no nuts and chews please.
I make about 50 bridges at a time. I hate making bridges, there is so much setup work, so I devote a whole day to it. Using my old monster Craftsman plunge router was getting tiring. The Trend is light weight and perfect for the job.
 
I bought one of those cheap routers. After the ER bills, I think it cost me about a $1000. I'll never buy anything but a Porter Cable. The cheap one was an impulse purchase.

Ouch! It only cost me $300 for my finger, but then the insurance picked up the other $5400. Only one more surgery to go, too! So, what exactly did the cheap router do to you?
 
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