Ukulele Armrests... Pics

70sSanO

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This started a few months ago when I noticed some finish issues where I rest my arm. When it gets hot and humid my arm sweats and the top of my ukulele takes the brunt of it. So I started to hunt down an armrest that would help prevent any more damage and ended up with these...

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I had to track down the clamps from one source and send them along with a balsa wood template to a guy who makes armrests for mandolins.

They ended up costing bit more than I had hoped, but they do the job and because my arm is not resting on the soundboard there is a little more sustain. They can also be removed from the ukuleles.

John
 
I have the same problem and its why I practice with coated ukes and my FLuke. THe FLuke has discolored a bit but its not like I can't change the soundboard cause I can with a FLuke.

I'm looking for my solution too.
 
Awesome ukes, who is the builder? They are stunning!

This is my better half's current uke rest.


UkeRest.jpg
 
Awesome ukes, who is the builder? They are stunning!
The one on top is an ASD Hawai'i Ukulele made by Keith Ogata and I believe the other is a Boat Paddle by Jerry Hoffman.
 
Teek,

The bottom one is also made by Keith Ogata. It is has the older bridge. I really enjoy both of them.

I like you better half's uke rest.. although it probably requires a little more maintenance and doesn't fit in the case very well.

John
 
Aloha John,
I've have those wearing out problems with my ukes too since I usually wear a tank top and my
uke always has body contact that wears out the finish pretty fast. I was very hesitant about
adding anything on my ukes as my thoughts it would impede the sound preformance. What I
do is, use a automotive called Nu finish every so often to protect the finish and it resolves the
problem....I hope it helps....MM Stan...
 
mm stan,

The complete armest doesn't sit on the soundboard. There is a 1/16" thick x 5/16" wide piece of felt or leather that touches the edge of the soundboard and the rest floats above it.

These have been used quite a bit on mandolins and, although debatable, are supposed to improve sound performance. This is because there is more arm surface resting on the soundboard than the felt/lether and that actually mutes the sound a bit.

If you try to play without your arm touching the soundboard at all, it will probably sound more open, (more sustain), and louder, not sure if that means better. Some muting on a ukulele does seem to add to the plinky sound and I think that can be desirable.

John
 
Teek,

The bottom one is also made by Keith Ogata. It is has the older bridge. I really enjoy both of them.

I like you better half's uke rest.. although it probably requires a little more maintenance and doesn't fit in the case very well.

John
My apologies, I stand corrected, should've taken a closer look. Both instruments are beautifully crafted. I'm jealous.
 
Aloha John,
Many thanks for the excellent info...I was also looking at the the Keith Ogata Ukes and noticed the the individual string adjustable saddles,
How does that work out....sorta like an electric guitar adjustable saddle? does that give you a little more individual compensation..thanks, Stan...
 
Aloha John,
Many thanks for the excellent info...I was also looking at the the Keith Ogata Ukes and noticed the the individual string adjustable saddles,
How does that work out....sorta like an electric guitar adjustable saddle? does that give you a little more individual compensation..thanks, Stan...
Stan, an excerpt from the ASD site about split bridge . . .
the concept of a split bridge comes from archtop guitars and violins, oddly enough. they both use a bridge that is separate from the string anchor point and they produce a clean sound. now, I may not be able to explain the mechanics of it all but suffice to say that it seems to work because they are not coupled together and have less of an impact on what each are doing.

the concept individual saddle pieces comes the same desire for a clean sound. with the traditional "bar" each string affects the others because the one piece saddle supports all of the strings and therefore excites the soundboard as one unit. this is actually a good thing since harmonics play a major role in generating "good" sound. but, again, what about obtaining a clean sound...

my first experiment with individual saddle occurred years ago. it was called an "independent saddle design". the saddle pieces, posts really, were placed directly on the sound board as well the the string anchor points. this isolated the excitation of the each string, albeit too well. remember I said that harmonics are good for sound? this is what I wrote in my review of the design:

It's a crisper, puncher sound. It has an interesting, lively sound picking. Strumming sounds all together different. It doesn't have the fullness of a typical bridge tending more towards the treble side. Using a rasgueado technique provides a clean, crisp sound.

for a fuller sound you need a bridge to tie the individual saddle pieces together but not in a confining way.

so, bridgeless independent saddles gives way to individual saddles on a bridge because just like humans, although individuals, accomplish more working together than independently. synergy, I guess you could call it.
 
mm stan,

The good and bad when using a round saddle is that they are 6mm diameter so there is more room for compensating but finding bone or tusq in 6mm diameters is probably not going to be easy.

I find that both ukuleles are not exceptionally loud but the sound is very clean with good ring.

Shawn at Ukulele Friend usually has one or two, so you may want to check it out first hand.

Kanaka916,

Thanks! I feel fortunate to have them.

John
 
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