ever use your table saw to do this?

No offense intended, but did you ever just look at something and feel in your gut that it was wrong, but had a hard time explaining why?

As a woodworker, I would be concerned about losing my grip holding the next firmly to the back of the sled and having the heel fall into the spinning blade. It is one thing if it is a solid block being fed into the blade, but there is nothing that I can see that is keeping the neck firmly on edge during the process.

But then again, it is your head and hands, so it is your call.

Best of luck.
 
it's actually quite safe, my hands don't get within 6" of the blade and the sled is clamped to the table. The necks sits on its reference edge and you nibble away at the heel (about 2 inches up the neck) until you get the desired result.

the neck itself has a wider footprint with the headstock angle adding to the stability against the sled. All surfaces are jointed, and if you don't take more than the saw tooth can handle...(about 1/8") it's smooth operating.

and the result is good...

100_0984.jpg
 
two dogs plucking said:
I saw Bill Cumpiano explain that method on his website, here... http://www.cumpiano.com/classicneckblank/classicneckb.htm
Click to expand...

I'm a big fan of Bill and his methods which keep changing. Few luthiers share to the degree he does. However I would like to point out that Bill is using what I believe would be called a spanish heel which means he has a large uncut block of wood at the end of the neck (will be come the heel block) that prevents the neck blank from rotating into the blade. That is not the case in the photos from the OP.

That is exactly what I was referring to in my post when I referred to a solid block. Maybe a safer alternative would be to bill the heel as a spanish heel and then cut off the neck block piece after the heel has been milled. Just my 2cents FWIW.

TWC
 
olgoat52 said:
I'm a big fan of Bill and his methods which keep changing. Few luthiers share to the degree he does. However I would like to point out that Bill is using what I believe would be called a spanish heel which means he has a large uncut block of wood at the end of the neck (will be come the heel block) that prevents the neck blank from rotating into the blade. That is not the case in the photos from the OP.

That is exactly what I was referring to in my post when I referred to a solid block. Maybe a safer alternative would be to bill the heel as a spanish heel and then cut off the neck block piece after the heel has been milled. Just my 2cents FWIW.

TWC
Click to expand...

I do something similar to that ......but I use the Spanish heel. It works great for that
 
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new wave ukulele said:
it's actually quite safe, my hands don't get within 6" of the blade
Click to expand...

Just an FYI--I'm not judging whether what you do is safe or not, but--my hand wasn't within 8 inches of the router bit when it got pulled in. If the machine pulls you in, that distance is the blink of an eye.

And, I wanted to add, I tilt my band saw table to get the same effect, minus the nice radius your table saw blade imparts, of course.
 
This method of "heel nibbling" is shown in the Hana Lima book. It works great. And I would have no more concern about an accident damaging the workpiece or luthier than any other operation on a table saw. Just use a god cross-cut sled to keep the workpiece secure and your hands out of the way.
 
If you angle the fence you can make elliptical cuts. A journeyman friend of mine showed me this technique making a long hollow cut in a big moulding. Too scary for me though.
 
I've read about this "bilateral sawing" in the past, but have never tried it. Seem to remember seeing an article long ago about "turning" bowls & what-not on a table saw. I always thought it looked kinda dangerous, but what do I know? :)

Edit: I am kinda interested to hear Pete's opinion on the subject though :) (<< note the grin :) )
 
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this operation is no more dangerous than any other you make on a daily basis. in fact, since you're addressing the saw from the side there is little chance of being hit by a kickback.
I've been doing cuts like this for years and with the right set up, and with what I would call "typical caution" that goes with every cut on the table saw. I thought it'd be a helpful hint, but to each his own....
 
I like it, and I love the look of Cumpiano's heel.... but I'm skeert. Still gonna try it though. The kickback does come from the other side of the blade. Groovy.
 
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dave g said:
I am kinda interested to hear Pete's opinion on the subject though :) (<< note the grin :) )
Click to expand...

Is it just me, or does anyone else hear Pete shouting "Don't ever try that! And don't ever tell anyone to try it!"

Anyway, we just use a dozuki, a rasp, a chisel and maybe a boat plane for heel shaping - never any power tools - or any accidents, except an occasional chipped finger nail or scraped knuckle :)
 
Making Cove molding using a tablesaw in a similar method as described above is a common, everyday procedure in most small cabinent shops not equipped with a large molding machine. The only difference here using a crosscutting sled as a jig, the angle of attack is perpendicular to the blade instead of diagonally (normal 30-45 degrees). With only 1.5 inches instead of 8 ft of cove to cut it probably dosesn't make much difference.

Remember...you start the cut with only ~1/16 inch of the blade above the sled and increase the bite by 1/16 - 1/8 inch with each pass. If one hand is holding the neck far away from the heel and a push stick is applying force to the neck near the heel against the fence as it passes over the blade this should be a very safe operation. You could double stick tape the finger board to a long piece of hardboard taller than the fence and create an even safer alternative which would keep your hands well out of the danger zone.
 
In machining terms..that's called "Fly cutting"...It can be done with milling machines and lathes with circular blades or Fly cuttters...But! I think the best way to do it is with a Table router and template.
 
Tarhead said:
Making Cove molding using a tablesaw in a similar method as described above is a common, everyday procedure in most small cabinent shops not equipped with a large molding machine. The only difference here using a crosscutting sled as a jig, the angle of attack is perpendicular to the blade instead of diagonally (normal 30-45 degrees). With only 1.5 inches instead of 8 ft of cove to cut it probably dosesn't make much difference.

Remember...you start the cut with only ~1/16 inch of the blade above the sled and increase the bite by 1/16 - 1/8 inch with each pass. If one hand is holding the neck far away from the heel and a push stick is applying force to the neck near the heel against the fence as it passes over the blade this should be a very safe operation. You could double stick tape the finger board to a long piece of hardboard taller than the fence and create an even safer alternative which would keep your hands well out of the danger zone.
Click to expand...

Also, that both edges of the resulting cove are touching the table so both edges are keeping the cove from diving further into the blade. Usually there is some sort of hold down to keep the work piece down over the blade (other than your fingers).

But to each his/her own as was stated above. Not trying to change the OP's mind but suggest precautions for other less experienced readers.
 
ecosteel said:
If you angle the fence you can make elliptical cuts. A journeyman friend of mine showed me this technique making a long hollow cut in a big moulding. Too scary for me though.
Click to expand...

Yep...that is called a corebox cut on the table saw.
 
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