Solid top/ laminated back and sides good for travelling?

annod

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I have read a lot about how laminated ukes are more durable because it can withstand dramatic weather changes etc. better than all solid ukes.

Would a solid-top/ laminated back and sides uke somewhere in between the two in terms of durability? Or is it worse because you've got a solid surface attached to a laminated one and they expand/contract at different rates.

I am toying with the idea of getting a Kala solid spruce top travel uke. They have the flaming maple (laminated) back and sides version. Would they actually be more suitable for travelling/ camping than the solid mahogany or lacewood back & sides versions?

Thanks
 
If I'm actually camping outdoors, then I'm thinking a Fluke or Flea is closest to bombproof.
Also, they can serve as boat paddles or zombie killers in a pinch.

I don't know whether all solid versus lam/solid is more suitable for a travel uke.
 
All ukes are travel ukes. I've had the equivalent of what you're talking about, and I'm sure it will serve well.
 
I have read a lot about how laminated ukes are more durable because it can withstand dramatic weather changes etc. better than all solid ukes.

Would a solid-top/ laminated back and sides uke somewhere in between the two in terms of durability? Or is it worse because you've got a solid surface attached to a laminated one and they expand/contract at different rates.

I am toying with the idea of getting a Kala solid spruce top travel uke. They have the flaming maple (laminated) back and sides version. Would they actually be more suitable for travelling/ camping than the solid mahogany or lacewood back & sides versions?

Thanks

If the top and back/sides were two different species, they would move at different rates anyways. In addition, there is a whole school of thought in guitars that the composition of the back and sides don't contribute significantly to the sound of an instrument. That school thinks the top is the big dog when it comes to sound and character. I'm sure there will be lots of difference of opinion on that but it is very hard to separate the tonal characteristics of the species from the bracing patterns used.

Lastly there are a couple of high end luthiers making custom instruments with very stiff laminated sides in an effort to improve the tone and projection of the instrument.

The solid top is the key.

As far as durability. The solid top will be the weak link so that will be where you have problems but not related to the plywood back and sides. That's my guess
 
Your assumption is correct. A solid top / lam back and sides is somewhere in between. Getting banged around can cause problems regardless of wood type, but the thing most of us are concerned about is cracking. With the back and sides being laminate, there is just less wood that can crack. The other thing is with most acoustic instruments, the vast majority of sound generation comes from the top vibrations. The back and sides contribute much less. So many feel you don't give up a lot tonewise with lam back and sides as long as you have a solid top. So its a nice compromise.
 
I have the Kala spruce top flaming maple (spalted) and love it, and take it with me a lot, but NEVER without its Uke Crazy Case. I would never leave it just lying around to be battered around, or slide off a seat or whatever. You will love it and get outstanding sound. Go for it. Lozark
 
If it were me, and being worry free was my top priority, I'd get laminated back and top.

With the Kala, your back and sides should be fine.

Your top is a softwood and that makes it less liable to split than hardwoods, but is "less liable to split" what you're really looking for here? It's not really the "worry free" solution.
 
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laminates can be tougher, but I'd find it hard to look above a Flea for something you can throw about - bonus with a Flea is they sound great too

Loudon Wainwright when on tour overseas tends to take his Flea
 
Southcoastukes,

For me, if the instrument is cheap enough and easily replaceable, it is close to worry-free. (though I am sure all ukes will have sentimental value if I play them enough)
I am curious about the laminated uke offerings from Southcoast though. i do believe high-quality laminates can sound really good, like the kiwayas. What will be the price range of the southcoast laminates?

pauljmuk,
I do like the tone of spruce-top. I just haven't heard any samples from the Flea/ Fluke that grab me yet. And I am not crazy about the plasticky look.

If it were me, and being worry free was my top priority, I'd get laminated back and top.

With the Kala, your back and sides should be fine.

Your top is a softwood and that makes it less liable to split than hardwoods, but is "less liable to split" what you're really looking for here? It's not really the "worry free" solution.
 
Flea Market Music has a used Kala thinline tenor for $140 shipped if that works for you.
 
Hello Annod,

Well, the first laminate uke is well under way. It is yet to be determined if we will even offer them. Omar has built four of his concert guitars this way and likes the results very much, so we are optimistic.

For bench built instruments, a top quality laminate process is actually more expensive. I imagine selling a laminate for more money than a solid would strike most people as odd, but we would probably have to go that way.

Of course you wouldn't want to charge more for an instrument with lesser sound quality. Beleive it or not, the processes we are using: wood laminate back and CF/wood laminate top, have the potential to sound at least as good as a solid instrument. Potential, of course, is the key word. Some things, like the Nomex double tops, don't translate well from guitars to ukuleles. We think these will give a better result. We shall see before long.
 
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laminates can be tougher, but I'd find it hard to look above a Flea for something you can throw about - bonus with a Flea is they sound great too

Loudon Wainwright when on tour overseas tends to take his Flea

Plus, in th unlikely event you were able to crack a Flea top, you could order a new one for $8 and replace it. Try that with most other ukes!
 
Cletus,

I am close to sealing the deal on that Kala. So excited!

p.s. reflection on my last post: I don't mean to seem like I treat cheaper ukes as disposables. After all, from a sustainability viewpoint, cheaper ukes use similar quantity of raw material to produce compare to more expensive ukes (correct me if I am wrong), so the longer they can last the better.

Southcoastukes,
Yes, it would be hard for me to shake the believe that laminates should be less expensive than solid wood. But if the designs and sound are really brilliant, why not? Look at the Eames furniture.

Just another thought: if a wood instrument (whether solid or laminate) is to be more durable, should the neck have truss rod, like they do in the Meles? or is it a gimmick?
 
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Cletus,

I am close to sealing the deal on that Kala. So excited!

p.s. reflection on my last post: I don't mean to seem like I treat cheaper ukes as disposables. After all, from a sustainability viewpoint, cheaper ukes use similar quantity of raw material to produce compare to more expensive ukes (correct me if I am wrong), so the longer they can last the better.

Southcoastukes,
Yes, it would be hard for me to shake the believe that laminates should be less expensive than solid wood. But if the designs and sound are really brilliant, why not? Look at the Eames furniture.

Just another thought: if a wood instrument (whether solid or laminate) is to be more durable, should the neck have truss rod, like they do in the Meles? or is it a gimmick?

As a guitarist, the lack of truss rods was a difficult thing for me to get over when it came to ukes. Reading posts and comments from several makers the opinion seems to be that given the low string tension, it is more important that the neck wood be stable than to try to counteract a poorly built neck with a trust rod.

Now neck reinforcement is another story (ie a graphite strip in the neck to add rigidity and stability). Again there is a lot of disagreement as to its necessity but it is more widely used than truss rods in ukes. Just my 2 cents
 
when I travel I'm not sitting around thinking that my uke is expensive and too precious to use, I see it as a very cheap form of entertainment. I just love it when someone gets on-line using their $1000 laptop, paying an ISP $600 a year, and says an $80 uke is too expensive for them, or they are worried about the uke being stolen or damaged while they travel, materialism gone mad.

Well spoken, sir.
 
Bill,

On one hand,
a $1,000 uke seem inexpensive and more worth to me than say, a year of cable TV, or a year of Starbucks latte.

on the other hand,
I am less than 3 months into ukulele playing and still trying to figure out what size/ sound I like best. I just can't justify getting an expensive custom-made uke when I am not even sure what I really like yet. (listening to sound samples are no substitute to actual holding and playing) This will be my first tenor, and I don't even know if I like tenor size. I was looking for a spruce-top and I was intrigued by Honey's (from Bosko and Honey) Spruce-top/rosewood back and sides thin-bodied tenor by DaSilva, which sounds awesome. Kala's thinline tenor seems to be the only inexpensive approximation.

p.s. I don't have my own car and bicycling is my main mode of transportation, so a lightweight, thin, durable instrument in a gig bag is certainly practical for me.


I have taken ukes on several month long trips where I just live in a car and a tent or swag (bedroll). The reason why you take a uke out on a trip is to have something fun to do while you are waiting for food to cook or a tour or its too dark to safely do anything else etc. It does not take long to get sick of a lesser tone when you know you have left behind something better.
Well made ukes as provided by the makers that frequent this board can be repaired if they get damaged. You can (in Australia) get insurance to pay for repairs or replacement.
My recommendation for adults is to buy the best uke and hard case you can afford and just use it where ever you are. Don't bother with intermediate or travelling ukes.
For me, a new tire costs $300, the car is worth $15,000 and is at risk on a 4WD road trip, petrol is say $80 a tank, if you have a canoe it might cost $1000, etc. In Australia most day tours start at $100 a head. If you are going on a trip, how much is it costing you to pay for the experience, airfares, accommodation etc. The price of a great custom made uke is very low compared to these normal travel costs, so when I travel I'm not sitting around thinking that my uke is expensive and too precious to use, I see it as a very cheap form of entertainment. I just love it when someone gets on-line using their $1000 laptop, paying an ISP $600 a year, and says an $80 uke is too expensive for them, or they are worried about the uke being stolen or damaged while they travel, materialism gone mad.
 
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