Low G... Low Squeak!

70sSanO

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I just converted one of my ukuleles to low G tuning. I started out with Aquila high G and just picked up a single D'Addario EJ45 classical guitar round wound D string and replaced the Aquila G string. It worked out quite well as the diameter is the same as the Aquila high G so there was no issue with intonation.

One thing I noticed with a wound string is the squeak when sliding on the string. Also, the wound string has a little more sustain and I guess boominess compared to the other Aquila Nylguts.

I did some research and found that some companies make semi-polished and flatwound strings that reduce the string squeak.

I ordered a single La Bella ground and polished D string from their professional studio 413P set. It is sold as 14ST-Studio. Because it is basically a flatwound string the string feels pretty smooth and doesn't have that booming sustain so it seems to blend in better... and no string squeak. Supposedly it also lasts longer.

It is not cheap at $3.60 plus shipping, Strings By Mail, but if it lasts through 2 sets of Aquilas it may be worth it, especially for someone who performs.

John
 
Thanks John - I'm always on the lookout for a good Low G. At the moment I really like the Fremont Blackline low G. I had Worth Low G clear on a couple ukes but it just seems dead as you move up the neck. The Fremont is a lot more musical. I also have an Aquila Low G on one uke but as you said, it's really boomy and overwhelms the other strings. Maybe I'll try this La Bella!
 
The "squeak" is pretty standard to wound strings. Flat wounds are better, but you'll still get it a little. It comes with the territory here.

The bigger concern you may have (and I need to address on my uke) is the nut and bridge. Because of the wound portion of the string, they tend to hand on the lip of the nut/bridge. This makes it spring in and out of tune as you are trying to tune it. This can be really annoying. About the only solution I know of is to refile the grooves in the nut/bridge for that string.

~DB
 
DB...

I'm not sure I understand. The Aquila high G is .73mm or .029 inch. Wound classical guitar D strings are around the same. The D'Addario was listed as .029, the La Bella is .028. So the wound strings should fit the slot in the nut without a problem.

Since wound strings are used on guitars, at much higher tension, and there is not a separating problem, at least I haven't encountered one, I'm not following you on the tuning issue.

Now if the groove in the nut is not smooth and the string is catching, then it may be necessary to take some 600 grit wet and dry sandpaper, fold it and run it through the groove. By the same token, I have seen saddles that have line on top that looks like the point where the 2 halves of the mold came together when manufacturing the saddle. I can see how this might snag on the string and it should be smoothed out with the fine sandpaper. It really should be smoothed out regardless of whether a nylon or wound string is being used.

John
 
A string lube like Fast Fret can reduce string noise, but won't eliminate it. My complaint with the Aquila wound G was that it frayed on the frets pretty quickly. I know it's been asked before, but I'll ask this crowd: How are the Worth browns with the unwound low G?
 
DB...

I'm not sure I understand. The Aquila high G is .73mm or .029 inch. Wound classical guitar D strings are around the same. The D'Addario was listed as .029, the La Bella is .028. So the wound strings should fit the slot in the nut without a problem.

Since wound strings are used on guitars, at much higher tension, and there is not a separating problem, at least I haven't encountered one, I'm not following you on the tuning issue.

Now if the groove in the nut is not smooth and the string is catching, then it may be necessary to take some 600 grit wet and dry sandpaper, fold it and run it through the groove. By the same token, I have seen saddles that have line on top that looks like the point where the 2 halves of the mold came together when manufacturing the saddle. I can see how this might snag on the string and it should be smoothed out with the fine sandpaper. It really should be smoothed out regardless of whether a nylon or wound string is being used.

John

A harder nut material can help with that as well. I always used bone in the past. Have never used TusQ but that is probably good as well. Either way preparation and keeping the slots perfect smooth is the most important as already mentioned.
 
John, I think you got the point. I must not have explained it too well, though.

Olgoat, I agree. Bone is better than the plastic that comes with most ukes. Alternatively, there are synthetics that are available that are just as hard and good sounding as the bone. Check out the stuff at www.stewmac.com. They got some great stuff.

~DB
 
I know it's been asked before, but I'll ask this crowd: How are the Worth browns with the unwound low G?
I really like them. :)

Now, I play classical guitar so I'm used to half trebles (unwound) and half basses (wound). However, on the uke, having a single wound string puts it somewhat out of character IMO. The tactile feel is different, the sound and sustain are different than the unwounds.

The Worths being all unwound gives them a more balanced consistency in both feel and tone. YMMV.
 
John, I think you got the point. I must not have explained it too well, though.

Olgoat, I agree. Bone is better than the plastic that comes with most ukes. Alternatively, there are synthetics that are available that are just as hard and good sounding as the bone. Check out the stuff at www.stewmac.com. They got some great stuff.

~DB

Yeah. I buy from stewmac all the time. I want to try some buffalo horn one of these days.
 
I am a newcomer to Low G so I don't have that many answers. I did try Worth Brown Strong in a Low G a few years ago and didn't like it. It lacked tension compared to the other strings so the lows were not as tight sounding; kinda the low end fart. Now I'll admit that I was tuning to Bb, so at C it may have been better.

I think it is a trade-off, but the same rules apply. Larger string diameters are needed to compensate for lower tuning to keep the tension at a playable level. If you go to a wound string, you can reduce the diameter and get a tighter sound, but you also get the low end boominess that is out of character with the other smooth strings.

Since I installed the flat wound string last night, it may be a bit premature, but it has less of that low end boom and sustain that a round wound string has so it blends in pretty nicely. I'll have to see as time goes on. Also since the classical guitar string is a flat wound bronze probably over a nylon core, it should last longer. Don't confuse this with a steel guitar string.

Finally too much tension is an issue, I have read a number of posts here that talk about using a classical guitar D string as a widely accepted alternate. When tuned up, the tension should be similar to the other strings if it has a lot more it would be best not to use it, and possible get a low tension string.

John
 
I really like them. :)

Now, I play classical guitar so I'm used to half trebles (unwound) and half basses (wound). However, on the uke, having a single wound string puts it somewhat out of character IMO. The tactile feel is different, the sound and sustain are different than the unwounds.

The Worths being all unwound gives them a more balanced consistency in both feel and tone. YMMV.
I'll give them a shot. Thanks!
 
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