Mi-si G-string issues, help?

Did you sand down the saddle? If you didn't do it then do it. If you did do it ensure it's all level? If it's a massive difference maybe consider drilling a fresh hole at the other end and starting again
 
Did you sand down the saddle? If you didn't do it then do it. If you did do it ensure it's all level? If it's a massive difference maybe consider drilling a fresh hole at the other end and starting again

It is quite a difference, and I did sand down the saddle, but I could very easily have sanded it down incorrectly.
 
The saddle needs to set flush on the pickup.
It is very easy while sanding to not have a perfectly square edge.
Try turning the saddle around and see if you have an issue with the "E" string.
If so then the saddle may be the culprit.
 
The saddle needs to set flush on the pickup.
It is very easy while sanding to not have a perfectly square edge.
Try turning the saddle around and see if you have an issue with the "E" string.
If so then the saddle may be the culprit.

That's excellent advice
 
The saddle needs to set flush on the pickup.
It is very easy while sanding to not have a perfectly square edge.
Try turning the saddle around and see if you have an issue with the "E" string.
If so then the saddle may be the culprit.

I tried, and I was hoping, but no, the problem still exists.
 
Did you sand down the saddle? If you didn't do it then do it. If you did do it ensure it's all level? If it's a massive difference maybe consider drilling a fresh hole at the other end and starting again

I may try this next, di you think the hole I made on this one was in the proper place?
 
oh maybe if I just find something to fill the gap at the end that is created from the space at the end of the bridge but also from the cable curving down in, also creating a gap?
 
Sorry if I'm not making sense, here is a small diagram showing the gap I am talking about. [you have to click it] Do you think that could be the issue? and if so what could I fill it with?

misi gap.jpg
 
I know this situation well. The leading 1/2" edge of the UST is not as sensitive as the rest of it. A secondary hole needs to be drilled in the saddle slot to that the less sensitive portion of the UST can be fed through thereby exposing the entire saddle to the "hottest" part of the element. This should remedy the problem.
 

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I know this situation well. The leading 1/2" edge of the UST is not as sensitive as the rest of it. A secondary hole needs to be drilled in the saddle slot to that the less sensitive portion of the UST can be fed through thereby exposing the entire saddle to the "hottest" part of the element. This should remedy the problem.

brilliant .
 
I know this situation well. The leading 1/2" edge of the UST is not as sensitive as the rest of it. A secondary hole needs to be drilled in the saddle slot to that the less sensitive portion of the UST can be fed through thereby exposing the entire saddle to the "hottest" part of the element. This should remedy the problem.

If I understand you correctly (I probably dont) But wouldn't this mean that I was feeding the bad portion of the cable to the C string instead? Because the tip of the cable is at my A string, which is registering just fine.
 
If the UST is feeding into the saddle slot from the G string side, and it's the G string that's giving you problems, then I am wrong with my suggestion. In that case I can only think that you are get not getting good contact with the saddle on that side of the bridge.
 
If the UST is feeding into the saddle slot from the G string side, and it's the G string that's giving you problems, then I am wrong with my suggestion. In that case I can only think that you are get not getting good contact with the saddle on that side of the bridge.
Yes it's feeding in from the G string side, but when I switched the saddle it could be that the saddle is just bad either direction for the G-string. So a new saddle might be in order. Maybe I should take it into a guitar shop and have them take a look. Do you guys think this is a good idea, I always have the mentality that "Guitar shops don't understand us ukers and our ukes!" But it's an acoustic instrument built in relatively the same style, so it could be worth a shot.
 
Since it is an undersaddle pickup issue, I would think most guitar shops could figure out what was wrong. I know of a couple music stores in SB, but I would call Folk Mote first because they are pretty much an acoustic shop. I just don't know how much electronics experience they have.

John
 
Since it is an undersaddle pickup issue, I would think most guitar shops could figure out what was wrong. I know of a couple music stores in SB, but I would call Folk Mote first because they are pretty much an acoustic shop. I just don't know how much electronics experience they have.

John

The people at folk mote are fantastic. I forget the womans name who is there most of the time, but she is really very nice, and she keeps everything in perfect tune, you can pick up anything it's great. But yeah, I haven't seen to many electrics when I've been in there, and never seen an amp, so I'm not sure if they would be able to help me. The other stores I know of are the Jensens Acoustic and Jensens Electric, and then I think there is Nick Rail Music, but I've never been there, I think Nick Rail is mostly lessons though?

Jensens would definitely be willing to give it a try, but I find they're hit or miss sometimes depending on who you get to talk to.
 
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The people at folk mote are fantastic. I forget the womans name who is there most of the time, but she is really very nice, and she keeps everything in perfect tune, you can pick up anything it's great. But yeah, I haven't seen to many electrics when I've been in there, and never seen an amp, so I'm not sure if they would be able to help me. The other stores I know of are the Jensens Acoustic and Jensens Electric, and then I think there is Nick Rail Music, but I've never been there, I think Nick Rail is mostly lessons though?

Jensens would definitely be willing to give it a try, but I find they're hit or miss sometimes depending on who you get to talk to.

Take it to Jensens. Trust me on that. The lady at Folk Mote is awesome but she's no luthier and I'm not sure that they have a luthier on site as I think she mostly sells instruments. I've never had a problem with Jensens. The head luthier is the guy that works on David Crosby's guitar.

To be fair I talked to them about installing an LR Baggs Active Element (same undersaddle transducer as the Mi-Si) and they mentioned they've never put one in a uke before but they seem sharp and I'd trust them to figure it out.
 
Take it to Jensens. Trust me on that. The lady at Folk Mote is awesome but she's no luthier and I'm not sure that they have a luthier on site as I think she mostly sells instruments. I've never had a problem with Jensens. The head luthier is the guy that works on David Crosby's guitar.

To be fair I talked to them about installing an LR Baggs Active Element (same undersaddle transducer as the Mi-Si) and they mentioned they've never put one in a uke before but they seem sharp and I'd trust them to figure it out.

Thanks misterpk, and yes, I believe the woman at Folk Mote is more of a player and a salesperson than a techie. But who knows, and are you referring to the man who runs the acoustic shop who has the glasses and the reddish hair? He is always helpful. I have hardly ever been in the electric portion, I don't know any faces from there.
 
That's correct Dane. I think he might be the owner. In any case he is very good. :)

I've never quite been sure, there used to be a Jensens in Solvang as well and I think there's one or 2 others that are actually still around. I know he at least runs the acoustic shop, but yes, he is always the one I look for whenever I go in. I'll call em up tomorrow or hop in and check, I might need to get a saddle (I think mine needs to be re-set up anyways after my wonderful sanding job) and hopefully they could fix the volume issue on the G-string.
 
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