Glue Contamination? Man... it's always something...

Vic D

Vic D

Well-known member
Joined
Feb 27, 2009
Messages
1,277
Reaction score
0
Location
Cincinnati
Take a look here at the spruce top. It didn't show up till I sealed with zinsser shellac. Glue contamination? I use Titebond white for binding. Looks to me like I didn't get it all cleaned off or something after binding but I was almost certain everything was clean. I'm in the process of sanding off the finish on the top now, as you can see in the photo and I'm pretty close to bare wood. Bummer too, cause this is some really nice pinkish tight grained spruce. Thinking I might have to do a black sunburst or something...

Also, check out the photo of the redwood top. It received a dent at some point, right on top of the upper brace. I steamed some of it out with a soldering iron and moist paper towel but it just wasn't going to come out. I was told the redwood had been stickered and aging for many years.

Anyway, thoughts? Advice? (Other than don't dent stuff :) ) The redwood is what it is, I'm done with it. I've got one more redwood top then I'm done with it. It's pretty but it's dingy.
View attachment 17962View attachment 17963
 
Last edited:
Bummer on two counts. If it consoles you at all; I have a Mainland Red Cedar tenor that has what looks like a "squiggle" of a dent about 3/8 of an inch long directly A string side of the sound hold. And of course, it is under the beautiful glossy finish! You almost have to be looking for it to see it. But she still plays really sweet. I'm guessing that cedar must be hard to work for just that reason.
 
Before applying any finish I'll wipe down the instrument with vinyl sealer or lacquer just so that I can see if there is any more sanding that needs to be done. Any exposed glue or scratches in the wood will become readily apparent.
 
Moore Bettah Ukuleles said:
Before applying any finish I'll wipe down the instrument with vinyl sealer or lacquer just so that I can see if there is any more sanding that needs to be done. Any exposed glue or scratches in the wood will become readily apparent.
Click to expand...

LIke a french polish wipe with the actual finish? I have tried wiping down with the solvent for the finish I will be using but that doesn't always show up the glue spots.
 
olgoat52 said:
LIke a french polish wipe with the actual finish? I have tried wiping down with the solvent for the finish I will be using but that doesn't always show up the glue spots.
Click to expand...

I usually just wipe it down with thinned lacquer and a folded paper towel. Actually, I may do this a few times during the building process as it helps me to catch any little flaw that might be present. The worst thing is for these things to show up after you've begun spraying your finish. It also brings out the color of the grain and helps me to match any complimentary woods better.
 
My old nemesis....dents. Seems amazing how any little wood chip or bump can cause a dent or squiggle when its time to finish
 
I find after the wipe down if I take the uke out in direct sunlight I can find little glue and sanding problems much better.
 
well I know a way that will work depending on the dent and the wood. Since thats really soft wood it might work if the dent kinda small. Since youve already sanded off the finish, take something and drip water on it and let it soak and swell up. if your willing to be patient, and let it swell and dry and repeat it might just fix it. A little trick I learned from my dad who is also a woodworker. It wont hurt the sound or integrity or the way the grain looks either. Hope this helps Vic
 
UkeDave said:
well I know a way that will work depending on the dent and the wood. Since thats really soft wood it might work if the dent kinda small. Since youve already sanded off the finish, take something and drip water on it and let it soak and swell up. if your willing to be patient, and let it swell and dry and repeat it might just fix it. A little trick I learned from my dad who is also a woodworker. It wont hurt the sound or integrity or the way the grain looks either. Hope this helps Vic
Click to expand...

I prefer less water and an iron and use the steam to swell the dented area. Usually does not get it 100% but it takes a dent out of the dent. You need to get the surface clear of finish for it to work though.
 
Thanks for all the info folks. They'll get the wipe down from now on and if I get another stubborn dent it'll get the slow goes it soak it method.
I actually was thinking of a pickguard and since Doug mentioned it that clenched it. I knew I was saving this construction paper for something. Here's a quick mock up, I'll straighten it out later. I've got some ebony down in the dungeon with this projects name now on it, using ebony nut and saddle so...
Looks to me like two fish jumping out of the water and kissing, which makes me want to do inlay. But nah... this one's gotta go.
What type of adhesive should I use? I've got some 3M spray adhesive...
View attachment 17974View attachment 17975
 
olgoat52 said:
I prefer less water and an iron and use the steam to swell the dented area. Usually does not get it 100% but it takes a dent out of the dent. You need to get the surface clear of finish for it to work though.
Click to expand...

I use a similar method for dents but I use a soldering iron. Fold a paper towel a few times, get it soaking wet, then wring it out so water isn't dripping off. Place the damp paper towel right on top of the dent and then touch the hot soldering iron to the towel. It does a great job of putting a little blast of steam right on the dent without soaking the surrounding wood. Blast it a few times, letting it rest/cool in between. I used to work in a furniture refinishing shop and this technique will even work through light finishes.

Cool looking pick guard!
 
olgoat52 said:
I prefer less water and an iron and use the steam to swell the dented area. Usually does not get it 100% but it takes a dent out of the dent. You need to get the surface clear of finish for it to work though.
Click to expand...

Thats a good way too ^ but for some reason i usually cant pull a bigger dent out like that. I could be doing it wrong too lol.
 
Not sure if it's the right way to go, but I always shoot a coat of shellac on before routing the binding channels. Seems to help hold the fibers together. I leave it on while gluing the bindings so glue doesn't soak in. I use hide glue, though and it's a breeze to clean off. Also spraying the top and back with a coat seems to help a little as dent protection. And it's easy to sand off before pore filling.
 
Taking a break from writing a major paper that is kicking my butt, I picked up Siminoff's Luthier Handbook for a little distraction. Before I even openned the book I noticed that the cover photo shows a person scalloping top braces with a nice thick piece of carpet between the top and his bench. Immediately I had a BLINDING FLASH OF THE OBVIOUS!!! Everything...I mean everything in my shop is harder than the wood I used for the top in my last uke. No wonder I get dents. I'm grabbing a carpet square nest time I'm at Lowe's and it is going to be on my bench the next time I thickness tops. I bet you all already do this!
 
Ken W said:
Taking a break from writing a major paper that is kicking my butt, I picked up Siminoff's Luthier Handbook for a little distraction. Before I even openned the book I noticed that the cover photo shows a person scalloping top braces with a nice thick piece of carpet between the top and his bench. Immediately I had a BLINDING FLASH OF THE OBVIOUS!!! Everything...I mean everything in my shop is harder than the wood I used for the top in my last uke. No wonder I get dents. I'm grabbing a carpet square nest time I'm at Lowe's and it is going to be on my bench the next time I thickness tops. I bet you all already do this!
Click to expand...

I actually like the carpet pad more than the carpet. The carpet pad stops the piece from sliding around as well as acting as a cushion for the instrument. by pad i am talking about that composite foam type stuff, not the old brown jute stuff. That rubber mesh they sell to stop persian carpets from sliding on wood floors works good to. Woodworking stores sell something similar to help hold pieces in place when routing. Never tried that one myself
 
olgoat52 said:
I actually like the carpet pad more than the carpet. The carpet pad stops the piece from sliding around as well as acting as a cushion for the instrument. by pad i am talking about that composite foam type stuff, not the old brown jute stuff. That rubber mesh they sell to stop persian carpets from sliding on wood floors works good to. Woodworking stores sell something similar to help hold pieces in place when routing. Never tried that one myself
Click to expand...

Agreed, the carpet has too much cushion to it. It's also hard to clean as it traps all those little pieces that cause scratches. I like the rubber mesh.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

mineymole
How to take off and re-glue bridge
2
Replies
24
Views
1K
sequoia
sequoia
P
Is visible glue inside a ukelele normal?
2 3
Replies
51
Views
2K
Graham Greenbag
G
C
Hide glue questions
Replies
3
Views
418
Kekani
Kekani
Mike $
Show Us Your Glue Pot Thread
Replies
13
Views
739
ThomD
T
Jerryc41
Better than Super Glue and Baking Soda
Replies
1
Views
3K
besley
besley
Top Bottom