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rickmorgan2003

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SO I was all excited to string up the new ukes but when I got the concert strung and tuned it kept playing sharp down the scale. After checking things I realized I was a dumb $%# and put the bridge 1/4 in to close and the scale was all wrong. Adding insult to injury I beat the crap out of the top getting the bridge off since I was once again a dumb $%#^ for not using hide glue. My only option now is to create an elaborate inlay for the top to cover all the damage.
 

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Tough luck Eh!
When I remove a bridge usually glued with Titebond..I slice it down with a sharp chisel until only about 1mm is left... then I wet it..and then I remove the rest using an electric soldering iron..it comes away with no problems..Then I have to make a new bridge but thats not difficult.
 
The first thing I do is nothing. I wait until I've cooled down before I continue on because my emotions will remove any patience and I'm more apt to do more damage as well as fling the thing across the room out of frustration. After that, I surround the bridge with blue painters tape and saw it off using a thin kerfed pull saw. It usually leaves a wisp of wood that can be easily removed with heat and a moisture. The tape protects the surrounding area as well as acts a a depth gauge for the saw.
 
The first thing I do is nothing. I wait until I've cooled down before I continue on because my emotions will remove any patience and I'm more apt to do more damage as well as fling the thing across the room out of frustration. After that, I surround the bridge with blue painters tape and saw it off using a thin kerfed pull saw. It usually leaves a wisp of wood that can be easily removed with heat and a moisture. The tape protects the surrounding area as well as acts a a depth gauge for the saw.

That would have been the smart thing but my celtic blood was boiling and rational thought escaped me. The uke did take a little flight but survived the landing OK
 
Tough luck Eh!
When I remove a bridge usually glued with Titebond..I slice it down with a sharp chisel until only about 1mm is left... then I wet it..and then I remove the rest using an electric soldering iron..it comes away with no problems..Then I have to make a new bridge but thats not difficult.

I thought about that but really wanted the bridge intact as well. I only have access to power tools once a week so making another bridge would have set me back another week- Of course, I am set back 2 or 3 now :(
 
From here on make a jig that fits in your nut slot on one end and locates the saddle (bridge) on the other. (Make sure you include compensation.) If you're confused as to what it would look like I can post a pic of my jig (good for all three sizes I make) when I get off work.
 
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From here on make a jig that fits in your nut slot on one end and locates the saddle (bridge) on the other. (Make sure you include compensation.) If you're confused as to what it would look like I can post a pic of my jig (good for all three sizes I make) when I get off work.

Hi Moore Bettah,

speaking just for myself, yours are some of the most beautiful ukes I have ever seen. I would love it if you would share a pic of your bridge setting jig.

Turtle
 
From here on make a jig that fits in your nut slot on one end and locates the saddle (bridge) on the other. (Make sure you include compensation.) If you're confused as to what it would look like I can post a pic of my jig (good for all three sizes I make) when I get off work.

Thanks Chuck,
What kills me is I did measure multiple times when I was laying it out, have no idea why I didn't put it in the right place. Jigs are good. Since these were my first I didn't make jigs for things but I see a few more in my future so I will follow your advice
 
I had to take the bridge off the first soprano I made because it slid a 1/16 off. After a trip to the ER for stitches in the hand that wasn’t holding the sharpened putty knife, I made a jig like Chuck and Dave described. I also use gauge pins to keep it where I want it. So since I took the neck off, sanded the top, resprayed several clearcoats, and made a new bridge, I took the extra few minutes to pay attention. :)
 
If you ever need to remove a bridge again that was glued on with titebond here is a method that has worked for me. Tape off the top with blue painters tape. Then use a thin pallette knife. It should flex easily. Heat it by dipping it in boiling water. Then start slowly working it under the bridge. Be patient. The heat and water will slowly soften the glue. Push too hard and you will pull wood off of the top. But the same things that will defeat a hide glue joint will also defeat a titebond joint - just not as quickly or easily. This refers to original Titebond. I don't have experience removing bridges with the newer versions.
 
So my answer to the sound board disaster was to route out the damages area and inlay some more wood. I thought about puting in the same kind as the soundboard but knew with my inlay skills there would be a line showing and it would look like a repair. I went with purpleheart to make it look as if it were a design choice instead of a bleep up.
I have to play with the action and in a week or so will put a wax coat on it and buff it out but it's done!!!
 

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Great looking uke. I especially like the tulip style headstock and matching fretboard. Handmade ukes that look handmade have a lot of appeal IMO.
 
Is that what that style is called? I'm so new at this uke thing I have no idea what I built.:)
I was going for a care free go with the flow look since that's what I think about when I think about turtles.
 
Is that what that style is called? I'm so new at this uke thing I have no idea what I built.:)
I was going for a care free go with the flow look since that's what I think about when I think about turtles.

It's what I call it. It does have a free flowing wave style. Here are some headstocks I designed a while back. I call the one in the center tulip. Foot, keystone, tulip, clubs and Crown Vic. I settled on the clubs.
 
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