Building a thickness sander

C

camface

Well-known member
Joined
Sep 22, 2009
Messages
204
Reaction score
2
I am attempting to build a thickness sander. I am planning on using a 1 3/4 HP router to power the thing, and I was wondering what diameter the drum should be. The router has a 1/2" collet, and I was thinking I would get some 1/2" metal rod and have the drum on that. Does this sound like it will work? And be safe?
 
Just off the top of my head.. I believe ... you will need a roller drum of about 4-5 inch dia..with a rotation speed around 1400 rpm...I think a router will be too fast....unless you use pully's and belt to gear it down....I built one at the begining of the year and documented the build... if it's any help you can read about it here.
http://www.ukulelecosmos.com/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=9&t=16343&hilit=thickness+sander
 
There are pretty detailed instructions on how to use it if you buy from stewmac. There's also a good video you can get from the lmi site on using one - it's also on youtube. I've only newly got mine and haven't sanded tops backs and sides with it but I have just thicknessed an ebony fingerboard blank and it worked really well for that. It is a compromise though - I would use a proper thickness sander in preference to it if I could afford one. Properly set up and sharpened (the disc for sharpening it is included and is used in the drill press also) IMHO it's a better option than hand planing/hand sanding. I'm certainly glad I bought mine and until I can buy a proper drum sander it's what I'll be using.
 
I used my Wagner about three times before I broke down and bought the Jet 10-20 drum sander. The Wagner will work, but it does not leave a particularly smooth surface. It wants to suck the workpiece into the cutters, which would be fine for a heavy board but not so good for a relatively thin piece of tonewood.
 
DSC02975.jpgI have a Wagner Safe-T planer that I use in my drill press and have had great results. I've had no problems feeding the wood with the set-up pictured. A proper fence and hold-downs have prevented any feedback (or "feed-forward"). The surface is rougher than sanding. I thickness to within a few thousandths and then finish up with the sander attachment I made for my lathe. The O'brien demo can be seen here: http://www.youtube.com/profile?user=OBrienGuitars#p/u/38/hfaLmBGKjJY
 
Last edited:
Mmm I was worried there would be something wrong with using the router. I can't seem to find a cheap motor anywhere...

But I do have a drill press...
 
It won't work and it isn't safe.
A router spins in excess of 10,000 rpm. You will not be able to control that type of speed and it will tear anything you build into pieces and you will very possibly be hurt in the process. If you slow the router with a speed contol you won't have enough power. Abandon this plan. If you wan't to make your own drum sander use a regular 1 horse motor. I'm not against guys making tools but you will not be able to make a decent drum sander for the price you can buy a used jet 10-20 if your time is worth anything at all.
 
camface said:
Mmm I was worried there would be something wrong with using the router. I can't seem to find a cheap motor anywhere...

But I do have a drill press...
Click to expand...
Another design is a roller in the drill chuck running alongside an angle plate..its called a "Luthiers Friend" http://www.luthiersfriend.com/ I made my own bigger one "like this" but with a longer 8 inch roller and a shaft support bearing in the drill press table.... but I dont use it anymore.
 
Last edited:
'Cheap' is the wrong route if you are building a drum sander unless you are Ken Timms who can make anything out of a pile of junk :) Use the Safe-T planer and a little tool, the design of which I adapted from John Gilbert's gizmo - I'll shoot some video of it for you in the New Year. Total investment - about $60 and you have a safe alternative to the rather scary proposal you currently have on the table!
 
One thing about the Wagner planer (as illustrated in Ken W's photo) is that it helps if you cut your material only using half of the width of the planer. With this method and with sharp cutters my ebony fingerboard had very few marks that needed to be sanded off after.
 
I too am in the process of building a thickness sander. I have collected parts for some time. It will be a more elaborate version of the shop notes sander. 1 1/2 hp 3450 motor (farm sale 5.00). 1/4 hp dc conveyor motor and drive (100). 5 1/4"x24" drum ( home made). I think I have more invested in itthan a 18" sander and it still isn't built. :) fifty here a hundred there adds up. The most expensive items were the gear motor for the automatic feed belt, the sandpaper, and the conveyor belt ( 36" wide sander belt ). I cheated and bought the conveyor lift mechanism (acme screws, 24" rollers, tensioning mechanism (80.00)from grizzly ( for their 24" sander) With some search the shopnotes plans can be had for the time of looking online, they're out there. (miro/ torrent). This is a DANGEROUS machine and should have safety features built in (emergency shutdown switch, and guards. There is a photo of a man that got his hand stuck in one (pretty nasty). I have a welder and electrical experience, and it is still a daunting endeaver. I will have a 2000 sander for maybe 500 in parts+time. I would consider a cheaper 18" from craigslist ( have seen them for 400-500). or a safety planer as suggested. Or pay someone to sand the wood for you. Good luck
 
Last edited:
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

Timbuck
Building a Cheap Thickness Sander
2 3 4
Replies
61
Views
19K
Timbuck
Timbuck
Kahai
  • Article
UU Podcast Building Confidence through Little Oopsies | The Ukulele Underground Podcast #110
Replies
1
Views
194
hands_on_lanzon
hands_on_lanzon
TBB
Warning - scammer in the building!
Replies
6
Views
520
Patty
Patty
S
Building a soprano
2 3
Replies
49
Views
2K
Smallchewbacca
S
de Houtwinkel
Interested in building your own ukulele?
Replies
4
Views
378
SkeeterAB
SkeeterAB
Top Bottom