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View Full Version : shiny spots on matt finish care - how can you scuff it up?



Paul Cote
01-20-2011, 02:15 AM
I just picked up a Hamano soprano and theres a small shiny spot on the top of it below the bridge and I read on the kala site that you shouldn't rub on a matt finish because it makes it shiny so evidently the spot is a result of rubbing. I figure eventually I might end up making other spots on it with use, I don't know, but was wondering if there was a care solution to removing the gloss from rub marks on a matt finished ukulele so that it is returned to matt ... basically how do you scuff it up.

I don't HAVE to fix this but if it is a simple thing to do, I wouldn't mind doing it. I don't want to start doing anything to it unless I know because I might just make it worse.

Timbuck
01-20-2011, 02:58 AM
After a couple of weeks..half the uke will be shiny as result of general use.

strumsilly
01-20-2011, 03:00 AM
I didn't like the matt finish on my Kala acacia tenor, so I buffed the whole body with rubbing compound and it looks awesome. really brought out the grain. looks more like stained koa now.

SweetWaterBlue
01-20-2011, 03:01 AM
Thats wut happened to my flat black Lava Flea top after a few months of hard playing. I didn't particularly like the shiny spot where I strummed, so I just took a rag and some tooth paste and shined up the rest of the top. Didn't like that either after a while so I just stripped the top and repainted it flat black.

tattwo
01-20-2011, 04:52 AM
You can use OOOO steel wool

SweetWaterBlue
01-20-2011, 05:01 AM
You can use OOOO steel wool

I tried that on mine and it left too many scratches that I could definitely see. Although 0000 steel wool seems to work well on bare wood etc, I just couldn't get it to work on a finish coat, like the Flea has on it. Maybe I was pushing down too hard, or something, don't know. Whatever you use, test it in an obscure spot first.

minipixel
01-20-2011, 05:01 AM
I have a Hamano concert that I picked up cheap with a snapped off bridge from the Ukulele store, when it sadly closed down a couple of years back. I hated the dull matte finish and like strumsilly, buffed the finish to a polish using metal polish paste. I think it looks much better. Since then I've also added a 2-ply maple/rosewood headplate veneer (to match the binding) and a nice set of Taisamlu (ebay) friction tuners with cocobolo buttons. It now looks as nice as it plays :)

Here's a shot of the polished finish when it was in-progress (http://www.flickr.com/photos/minipixel/3450336553/in/set-72157616863080607/)

tattwo
01-20-2011, 05:09 AM
I tried that on mine and it left too many scratches that I could definitely see. Although 0000 steel wool seems to work well on bare wood etc, I just couldn't get it to work on a finish coat, like the Flea has on it. Maybe I was pushing down too hard, or something, don't know. Whatever you use, test it in an obscure spot first.

Im using it between coats of truoil and its been working great. I dont use a lot of pressure.

RonS
01-20-2011, 05:45 AM
You can use OOOO steel wool


I tried that on mine and it left too many scratches that I could definitely see. Although 0000 steel wool seems to work well on bare wood etc, I just couldn't get it to work on a finish coat, like the Flea has on it. Maybe I was pushing down too hard, or something, don't know. Whatever you use, test it in an obscure spot first.

Use some paste wax as a lubricate

Jaicen
01-20-2011, 06:34 AM
Use some paste wax as a lubricate

Exactly. If it's good enough for Martin, and Lowden come to think of it, it's good enough for me!

Moore Bettah Ukuleles
01-20-2011, 07:01 AM
I use Meguiar's carnuba wax (any auto parts store) with 0000 steel wool for a warm buttery sheen, call it a high satin. Work in one direction only and use a light touch when finishing the job.

SweetWaterBlue
01-20-2011, 07:06 AM
I may have to try it again. Maybe the wife will let me practice on the living room cherry end tables - well.. maybe not.

erich@muttcrew.net
01-20-2011, 07:13 AM
Buff the rest and you'll have a nice silk finish.

I wouldn't use steel wool, not even 0000 with wax lubricant. I just think the cut is too rough. For paint touch-up we use fine paint shop mesh: 4000, 6000, 8000, 12000, 16000 grit, depending on the finish.

Paul Cote
01-20-2011, 07:16 AM
well the idea was to get rid of the gloss so I was thinking 000 because you make a gloss with 0000 I understand. A guy who sits next to me at work is into woodworking and he suggested 600 grit.

SweetWaterBlue
01-20-2011, 07:25 AM
Buff the rest and you'll have a nice silk finish.

I wouldn't use steel wool, not even 0000 with wax lubricant. I just think the cut is too rough. For paint touch-up we use fine paint shop mesh: 4000, 6000, 8000, 12000, 16000 grit, depending on the finish.

That was my experience Eric. These guys that do this a lot certainly know more about this than I do, but I found that for a top coat of Flea paint as opposed to a stained or oiled wood finish the 0000 steel wool was just too aggressive for my technique, lubricant, or not. If I hadn't already painted it again and left it at my mom's I'd give it another shot.

Moore Bettah Ukuleles
01-20-2011, 08:09 AM
well the idea was to get rid of the gloss so I was thinking 000 because you make a gloss with 0000 I understand. A guy who sits next to me at work is into woodworking and he suggested 600 grit.

From my experience, 0000 will get you a satin finish. With wax it'll give you a high satin finish without the lines associated with a steel wool finish. 600 grit sandpaper will give you a finish similar to what's on your outdoor deck! Different strokes.

tattwo
01-20-2011, 08:13 AM
From my experience, 0000 will get you a satin finish. With wax it'll give you a high satin finish without the lines associated with a steel wool finish. 600 grit sandpaper will give you a finish similar to what's on your outdoor deck! Different strokes. ;) :agree:

RonS
01-20-2011, 12:06 PM
0000 steel wool is roughly the equivalent to 400 grit CAMI or 1500 mirco mesh.

Each will give you a different scratch pattern.