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Timbuck
02-16-2011, 04:46 AM
I bought some of this stuff on E-bay a couple of weeks ago....and today I resawed some of it into slices to see what it's like to bend..."Pete" says it's not easy:(..the colour is very red and it's made the bandsaw look like a Martian landscape...I should have changed the blade to one with less teeth before cutting but I was too lazy. :)
...I have a pair of Soprano sides in the bender at the moment and I'll let you know how it goes.
http://i219.photobucket.com/albums/cc143/shiregreenbod/PICT0042.jpg

Gmoney
02-16-2011, 04:58 AM
Wow! That IS RED! Will be interesting to see what the sides look like once bent. What do you plan on pairing it with for top/back?

Timbuck
02-16-2011, 05:19 AM
Wow! That IS RED! Will be interesting to see what the sides look like once bent. What do you plan on pairing it with for top/back?

The same stuff I hope.

Gmoney
02-16-2011, 05:26 AM
The same stuff I hope.

Thats going to be SWEET.

Timbuck
02-16-2011, 05:31 AM
Well that went a lot easier than expected!...I just soaked the sides for 10 min's in soapy water and took it nice and steady in the bender....I've had Mahogany that gave me more trouble than that...No cracks or wrinkles, no burn marks, and hardly any spring back...It must be beginers luck;)
It made the forming jig go a funny colour tho':D
http://i219.photobucket.com/albums/cc143/shiregreenbod/PICT0049.jpg
http://i219.photobucket.com/albums/cc143/shiregreenbod/PICT0051.jpg

erich@muttcrew.net
02-16-2011, 05:36 AM
Make sure you don't get that stuff on the carpet or Mrs. Timbuck is going to have your head.

Ukeffect
02-16-2011, 05:36 AM
Heavens that is pretty grain...can't wait to see the finished product!
:drool:

agilitydog
02-16-2011, 05:37 AM
Although I'm a beginner, I'm hoping you'll post all of your "paduak incite". Beginner's luck is so hard to replicate even with a good jig. Beautiful!

Ken W
02-16-2011, 05:46 AM
I bought some of this stuff on E-bay a couple of weeks ago....and today I resawed some of it into slices to see what it's like to bend..."Pete" says it's not easy:(..the colour is very red and it's made the bandsaw look like a Martian landscape...I should have changed the blade to one with less teeth before cutting but I was too lazy. :)
...I have a pair of Soprano sides in the bender at the moment and I'll let you know how it goes.
http://i219.photobucket.com/albums/cc143/shiregreenbod/PICT0042.jpg

That made your bandsaw even more red than cutting salmon.

Timbuck
02-16-2011, 05:51 AM
That made your bandsaw even more red than cutting salmon.

Yup!..It took weeks to get rid of that fish smell.

mm stan
02-16-2011, 09:30 AM
Woo woo...that some beautiful stuff...just can't wait to see more....Thanks for sharing!!

Pete Howlett
02-16-2011, 09:55 AM
Well done Ken - I had no success trying to hand bend it. Only problem with AP is it won't keep that vibrant red color.

Moore Bettah Ukuleles
02-16-2011, 09:57 AM
Pretty wood. I did one of those with a spruce top once. What a nightmare it was to keep the spruce from staining. I finally had to do a tobacco stain to hide it. Good luck with it.

Timbuck
02-16-2011, 10:23 AM
Well done Ken - I had no success trying to hand bend it. Only problem with AP is it won't keep that vibrant red color.
I've read that exposure to the sunlight/UV light causes it to slowly turn to a brown colour:(....If so ? like "Dracula" it will have to be kept in it's coffin during daylight hours:)...There is a UV resistant laquer i've seen advertised on a furniture site that is supposed to keep Padauk from fading but I don't know where you get it in the UK....I sliced a piece up into 4 sets of soprano sides..and I'm not quite sure what I'm going to do with them yet...Is a bright red uke desirable???:confused:

HornedOne
02-16-2011, 10:43 AM
if I have the money I'd buy it!

then again I always like the odd ukes XD

olgoat52
02-16-2011, 12:33 PM
I have always loved that stuff. It will be very interesting to hear what a soundboard of it sounds like.

Michael Smith
02-16-2011, 03:38 PM
Paduek is a very underrated wood. I love the color. I would be willing to bet if it were in short supply it would be highly sought after. Have you noticed that all the woods that don't cost an arm and a leg are not as popular. Could there be a snob factor in tonewood. It is kind of like how we look at the spruces. They are crazy about Sitka Spruce in Asia but a lot of american builders think the spruces from europe are the best.

Pete Howlett
02-17-2011, 02:59 AM
The spruce thing is to do with classical guitars being made from Swiss Pine - I never found it as good as the North American/Canadian varieties. I prefer wide grain Red Spruce for steel string guitars - it performs really well and many a great sounding classic vintage Martin I played when I lived in Ohio had fronts which would barely pass on a Chinese guitar these days; no 'Mastergrade' then!

And yes you are very right about the 'premium' concept. Back in the day when fpc koa was less than $5 a bf you wouldn't find many guitar makers using it. It almost had that Hawaiian novelty kudos that prevailed against using it. Sadly, many mainland ukulele makers struggle to break free of the koa mindset that exists in the buying public- and I mean this from a conservation view: koa is the natural and indigenous material for Hawaiian builders and is a 'right and proper' choice for them; cherry, walnut, maple are the mainstream indigenous mainland US woods with black acacia Oregon myrtle being more 'exotic' so to speak: the natural choice for those not living in Hawaii. Here in the UK I should be using cherry, walnut and yew much more than I currently do.

However, in the conservative uke buying and playing community, one is hard pressed to make this point. I am currently stocking English/French cherry because I intend to do a limited edition run later this year and my back stock will be depleted. This wood is the perfect 'stand-in' for koa and mahogany; I love it because it looks and finishes great and makes brilliant sounding ukes. Frustratingly, the marketing of such ukes takes so much more time than those made from traditional woods...

Allen
02-17-2011, 09:20 AM
Interesting point Pete. Australians are pretty patriotic when it comes to wanting guitars made from local woods, but with Ukes it doesn't seem to carry over or even come into consideration. Pity because Australia has a lot of really outstanding hardwoods that also look spectacular and suitable for instruments.

Pete Howlett
02-17-2011, 01:57 PM
I noticed that too - very impressed with stuff on the ANZLF; great looking woods.

Timbuck
02-18-2011, 03:58 AM
I've progressed a bit more with it now... so I took a few more Pic's...Kerfed linings 4mm X 6mm added..plus neck and tail blocks
I've decided to make the neck out of Padauk as well..As all my Soprano neck joints are all the same dimensions these days ..any neck will do for the set up as they are all interchangable, so I used a utile one for the photo..it shows how dull unfinished mahogany is at the side of the red stuff.
http://i219.photobucket.com/albums/cc143/shiregreenbod/PICT0035.jpg
http://i219.photobucket.com/albums/cc143/shiregreenbod/PICT0036.jpg
http://i219.photobucket.com/albums/cc143/shiregreenbod/PICT0040-1.jpg

HornedOne
02-18-2011, 04:13 AM
nice progress. the padauk looks especialy bright on those pictures

Timbuck
02-18-2011, 04:44 AM
nice progress. the padauk looks especialy bright on those pictures
It is RED like that...This is what I started with..I intend to use some of the white stuff as well.:D
http://i219.photobucket.com/albums/cc143/shiregreenbod/PICT0002.jpg

Gmoney
02-18-2011, 04:49 AM
Wow! Wow! Wow!!!

HornedOne
02-18-2011, 04:53 AM
I'd love a Uke with a bookmatched top and back that has some of that light/white wood enclosed in the middle. xD I bet it would look awesome

tattwo
02-18-2011, 05:19 AM
Ken your neck joints are great! Very clean

Pete Howlett
02-18-2011, 06:20 AM
Not to steal Ken's thunder but the superior Andaman padauk can be seen here (http://www.ukuleleunderground.com/forum/showthread.php?41506-Andaman-Padauk&highlight=andaman) The key problem with sap joins as you can see clearly from Ken's photo is that when it is not on the quarter you are going to get 'drift' for the bookmatch. In my bookmatch there is some shakes which I have had to stabalise with superglue and will be further fortified when I glue in the cross banding strip and then use epoxy as a grain filler - all procedures that work. As a sidebar I recently played a $12000 OM in African Blackwood with a creamy sap join. Running my fingers over this I could feel it starting to separate along a hairline 'shake' I could barely see that initially looked like a black vein... Despite the maker being at the top of his art and game he somehow, like we all sometimes do, missed the flaw that will soon end up as a warranty issue. I have learned through long cabinet making years and luthiery to fully inspect anything that is exotic and get those techno glues working asap! Sap joins, tho pretty, are not all they are cracked up to be and have to be gone over with a magnifying glass to find the shakes and flaws that inevitably occur in this area of the board:)

Nixon
02-18-2011, 06:46 AM
I'd love a Uke with a bookmatched top and back that has some of that light/white wood enclosed in the middle. xD I bet it would look awesome

You'll love the one Pete's making for me then ;)

Timbuck
02-18-2011, 09:03 AM
Now!.. where did I put that "magnifiying glass" ?...your right about the drift Pete.. i'll have to move the cuts quite a bit to find a bookmatch.
And the laminated neck I intend to make from it will take a bit of working out as well to get the grain balance right...It's all good fun tho'.:cheers:

Rob-C
02-18-2011, 09:09 AM
How about a maple neck with a skunk stripe of the red padauk in it?

Timbuck
02-18-2011, 09:57 AM
How about a maple neck with a skunk stripe of the red padauk in it?
I did the skunkstripe on a banjo some time back it worked out well with Maple and Rosewood..But this time I've got something more ambitious planned Rob..But I havn't worked out how to do it yet:confused::confused:

Pete Howlett
02-18-2011, 11:39 AM
Rob - that would be a finishing nightmare especially with the shellac process Ken uses... Ken - inspect that sap really closely.

agilitydog
02-18-2011, 12:41 PM
Was the soappy soak an application you've used on other difficult woods or was this unique? I here such dramatic difference of opinion about this technique that obviously worked great. Do you know if Pete soaked in this manner?

Pete Howlett
02-18-2011, 01:07 PM
I use the water from the dehumidifier... whatever I do it always discolours the wood

Timbuck
02-18-2011, 09:12 PM
I just add a little washing up liquid to the warm water, it acts as a wetting agent ..then soak for a short while till wood is wet right thro'....It comes out of the bender bone dry...but not scorched.

Timbuck
02-23-2011, 02:06 AM
I started on the back and soundboard today..Not my usual type of thing..I try'd to keep the rosette simple.
http://i219.photobucket.com/albums/cc143/shiregreenbod/PICT0004-1.jpg

Pete Howlett
02-23-2011, 02:25 AM
From engineer to artist in one seamless rosette step. Three cheers for Ken. Well done mate - brilliant idea and concept :) :) :)

HornedOne
02-23-2011, 06:26 AM
absolutely stunning

Timbuck
02-24-2011, 07:57 AM
I've now got the box together with no serious problems..and I decided to do the binding in Ebony with black & white support...I will fit plain Ebony bindings to the back next.... I managed to bend a load of Ebony and Rosewood soprano bindings in the bender today and none of them cracked or broke..it must be my lucky week.:D
http://i219.photobucket.com/albums/cc143/shiregreenbod/PICT0020.jpg

Allen
02-24-2011, 08:45 AM
Must say Ken that is one bloody stunning instrument.

Nixon
02-24-2011, 09:06 AM
No emoticon can describe how amazing that looks.

Ukulele Jim
02-24-2011, 09:14 AM
Is this instrument already spoken for? Cuz I want it!

Liam Ryan
02-24-2011, 08:19 PM
If I had that on the bench I'd be giddy with excitement to see it finished. Very nice.

velofille
02-24-2011, 09:11 PM
Is this instrument already spoken for? Cuz I want it!

Fight you for it!

erich@muttcrew.net
02-24-2011, 09:45 PM
Wow! :cool: :music: :rock: .....

Ukulele Jim
02-25-2011, 05:36 AM
Fight you for it!

I will meet you in Charlie Sheen's octagon!

Timbuck
02-28-2011, 05:15 AM
I did a bit more on this project over the weekend..I cut a few of pieces of the red and white, added a little Ebony.. glued them up and ended up with this Picaso type thing.
I took a load of pic's as I went along so I could make myself a slide show:).. But I lost them all by accidently pressing the delete button on the camera.:mad:
so anyway this is the end result so far....the neck join fits great so I showed that as well...I havn't decided how to finish the headstock yet...but it will have gold geared type tuners.

http://i219.photobucket.com/albums/cc143/shiregreenbod/PICT0039-1.jpg
http://i219.photobucket.com/albums/cc143/shiregreenbod/PICT0041-1.jpg

tattwo
02-28-2011, 05:38 AM
Ken that looks great!!

HornedOne
02-28-2011, 07:52 AM
-looks for a credit card- xD

agilitydog
02-28-2011, 08:07 AM
I check this build everyday and react much like everyone else--wow! I look at the details, the sawdust, the workmanship--even the kerfing matches the motif. Today, I just found myself staring for the longest time--analyzing nothing-- until I realized how much time had passed and the art gallery might be closing.

Ukulele Jim
02-28-2011, 10:30 AM
I was serious when I asked if this instrument is spoken for or not. Is this being made for someone? Will it be for sale?

Moore Bettah Ukuleles
02-28-2011, 11:32 AM
Too cool Ken.

Timbuck
02-28-2011, 11:56 AM
Too cool Ken.
To be honest Chuck..I dont know what I am doing...I'm Just moving from one stage to the next (with a lot of thinking and drawing sketches as I go):confused: it's a bit like a game of "Pool" trying to be several shots ahead...I dont intend using any glitter type material ..well maybe some for the 2mm fretboard dot's:D...The bridge will be Ebony, as will the fretboard..but I think a paduke red and white headstock veneer is the way to go (with "Ebony binding" if I can do it ????) and perhap's a "logo type inlay"???....Oh well! Time for bed....Goodnight.

Moore Bettah Ukuleles
02-28-2011, 12:41 PM
You know exactly what you're doing! The best ukes are those that come on the fly without over thinking things. They're also the most fun.
I'm thinking you'll need to tie in the ebony fingerboard so that it looks like a match made in heaven. Personally, I'd bind it like you did the body and add some padauk dot fret markers. (And what are you doing going to bed at 1:00 in the afternoon?)

tikibar
03-02-2011, 07:21 AM
wow , that looks amazing.
i love those colors !

Ukulele Jim
03-03-2011, 11:58 AM
KEN!!!!!!!!!!!!

IS THIS UKULELE GOING TO BE AVAILABLE FOR SALE?

Inquiring minds wanna know!

Timbuck
03-03-2011, 09:03 PM
KEN!!!!!!!!!!!!

IS THIS UKULELE GOING TO BE AVAILABLE FOR SALE?

Inquiring minds wanna know!
I've had to put this project on the back burner for a while so I can complete other (None uke related):(jobs .....And there's plenty of time for this build to go wrong..The finish could be very difficult....Lets wait and see :confused: :) it' only a hobby.:)

Timbuck
03-04-2011, 03:54 AM
I won't be doing anymore work on this build for a few days..so before I put it into storage..here is a progress report.
I've just completed the fretboard, it's my 2nd attempt at a "bound fretboard" the first one I did was on a banjo uke and it was a simple plastic edge..this one was much harder for me to make in Ebony with white especially the bit at the tail end:confused:...it took about 12 hours and it almost got scrapped twice :(..I won't be doing another one of these in a hurry.
here is a pic...Oh! and a special thanks to Chuck for telling me how to get CA glue out of the fret slots:D
http://i219.photobucket.com/albums/cc143/shiregreenbod/PICT0006.jpg

tattwo
03-04-2011, 05:15 AM
Fine work as always! Cant wait to see it with finish on it :drool:

Moore Bettah Ukuleles
03-04-2011, 05:29 AM
Wow, that's a tough curve on the fret board extension. Did you bent ebony to fit it? Impressive.

Timbuck
03-04-2011, 06:10 AM
Wow, that's a tough curve on the fret board extension. Did you bent ebony to fit it? Impressive.
I'd love to say "yes I bent it"....but I didn't.:) I carved it from a chunk...and sanded it to fit, glued it to the end, then trimmed the surplus on the bandsaw... it wasn't easy ..it broke off twice. *Edit* to add a pic.. If I did another ????? I suppose I could do it better now I know how :D................................................ :stop: I've now decide i'm not happy with it I'm going to redo it and this time the corners will be mitered + a couple more things.
http://i219.photobucket.com/albums/cc143/shiregreenbod/PICT0008.jpg

Steve vanPelt
03-04-2011, 06:30 AM
Nice:D. If Frank LLoyd Wright designed an ukulele... Seriously that's sweet

Timbuck
03-07-2011, 05:08 AM
GOOD NEWS AND BAD

First the good news:D...I remade the fret board co's too many errors went into the first one and I wasn't 100% happy with it.
The new one has 17 frets not 15, it's bound this time with "ebony and white padauk" (I still couldn't bend the ebony but the padauk bent easy) And hardly any glue got into the slots this time.
http://i219.photobucket.com/albums/cc143/shiregreenbod/PICT0004-3.jpg
Now the Bad news:(... the sound board on the uke is showing signs of shrinkage :mad:..Damp/moisture in the wood problem I think...The back and sides are ok co's they were bent with heat and got dried out in the process...no big problem I'll just take it off and make a new top (I'll make sure it's dry this time).

tattwo
03-07-2011, 05:15 AM
That looks even better than the other! Very nice

Timbuck
03-08-2011, 05:30 AM
Although I'm a beginner, I'm hoping you'll post all of your "paduak incite". Beginner's luck is so hard to replicate even with a good jig. Beautiful!
I bent a 2nd pair of sides today so I can make another like it "Thats if this one turns out a success"...It's for a Mate who has been pestering me:(..And while I was doing it I made a few notes in case anyone else wants to bend some of this stuff.:)

1. Soaked in warm water for 10 min's with a little added washing up liquid.. (I've been told fabric softener works pretty good as well)
2. Bend in Fox type bender very slowly as heat builds up to 320 F and dwell for about 5 min's before allowing to cool right down
3. The Padauk oozes out a substance in some areas that turns almost black when it heats up and it looks as tho it's over cooked (see pic below )...But it's OK, this is only staining on the surface and will come out with light sanding...the one on the left has been sanded a bit.
4. I noted that it also shrinks in the bender as it bakes..it shrunk approx: 3mm in 55mm across the grain so allow for that when making up the sides.
http://i219.photobucket.com/albums/cc143/shiregreenbod/PICT0012.jpg

Moore Bettah Ukuleles
03-08-2011, 07:05 AM
Hmmm...If you're getting shrinkage in the sides, you might also want to "cook" your top and back pieces as well as any bindings. Especially in light of the problem you mentioned earlier. Just a thought.

Timbuck
03-08-2011, 08:30 AM
Hmmm...If you're getting shrinkage in the sides, you might also want to "cook" your top and back pieces as well as any bindings. Especially in light of the problem you mentioned earlier. Just a thought.
Thats the same conclusion I came to as well..when I put the back in my new "back bender device" to arch it..it shrunk in about 6mm across the lower bout:confused: ..if it wasn't for the binding channel i'd have scrapped it co's it was about 1mm too small....Now i'm off to design a front bender :cool:
It will get done in the end :D

Pete Howlett
03-08-2011, 09:03 AM
You might want to work with seasoned wood Ken - it's a lot easier....

Allen
03-08-2011, 09:18 AM
That's what I was thinking Pete. Never seen wood shrink across the grain once it's been dried out a suitable amount of time.

Looks like that bender will need a good clean up afterwards. Lots of resin coming out of that wood.

Timbuck
03-08-2011, 10:10 AM
You might want to work with seasoned wood Ken - it's a lot easier....
I know this must be a story that you "must have heard before"..but the Guy I bought it from led me to believe it had been "Air dried for 2 years or more" I'm only new at this you know;)...I bought a "Moister" measuring thingy last week... I got one with 4 spikes co's I was told it would be more accurate:)..they didn't tell me it would be harder to stick in the timber tho'.:(

Michael Smith
03-08-2011, 11:24 AM
One thing I have been doing to check for moisture in my thin wood is to get an iron, set it on high and iron my wood on a metal surface like the table saw bed or jointer bed. If there is moisture in the wood it will condense on the metal surface. Low tech but it seems to work well. If I find moisture I put a clean cotton rag down and keep ironing until it's gone.

Pete Howlett
03-08-2011, 11:05 PM
Ken

Even if I know the source and supplier I NEVER use any timber I get immediatey, you are just asking for trouble. Unless they come direct from Spain, fingerboards go straight onto the storage heater for 12 months at least and all other wood depending on species 6 months or more if it is already converted, tho koa does acclimate very quickly. When I resaw, it is with wood I have stored for 2 years or more and it stays in its converted form 3 months before being used. When a client orders and places a deposit the wood is pulled from the stash and put near my heat source in my 45% - 55% acclimated workshop. These are basic steps to ensure that what you are experiencing doesn't happen - I was cavalier enough in the early days and naieve enough to think that I had all this under control... time and a few early degrades taught me three very important lessons - seal and heat the workshop, buy a dehumidifier!

Moore Bettah Ukuleles
03-09-2011, 06:47 AM
In my book, "air dried for two years" is still green. Maybe if it were air dried for two years after it was kiln dried I'd feel more comfortable. None of my wood is fresher than ten years, most of it is considerably older. Even so, after I resaw it into planks it'll sit in my climate controlled room for one to five years before it's cut into sets. Once they're cut into sets they'll sit around some more. After each stage of cutting, the wood is allowed to rest and dry further. It's a slow process but it's worth it. Of course this means you have a lot of wood sitting around which is impractical for many people. If you can't afford to do this then buy your wood from a supplier of musical instrument wood. They know what they're doing. I cringe every time I read: "A tree fell in my back yard and I want to make a ukulele from it." Well good luck!
My time is the most valuable thing I have. I'll be spending 40 to 70 hours on an instrument. I'm not taking any short cuts in wood selection. There will be plenty of opportunities to fail elsewhere as the process goes along. For me, the wood must be dry, stress free and relaxed. As I've mentioned before, hurrying any of these processes never seem to work for me.

EDIT.....None of what I've mentioned is worth anything if, as Pete said, you don't work in a climate controlled environment. These two things, working with dry, stable wood and working under humidity controlled conditions must be considered together and are only the first steps to proper building. Without doing these two things first, all other bets are off.
But then again, maybe it's just me........

Allen
03-09-2011, 09:33 AM
What Chuck said....and very well too.

I've got enough wood on the shelves to last me for 3 decades, but that doesn't stop me from acquiring more. Most was bought from Luthiers Wood merchants with very good reputations, sized for instruments already, but even then I don't build with any of it for at least a year. Now it's very easy to pick through the shelves and not touch anything that hasn't been sitting for 3 years or more.

Darrel
03-09-2011, 10:14 AM
I always found it odd that some luthiers will wait years and years drying out thier wood only to soak it submerged in water prior to bending? I think most people only lightly spritz with water and that makes sense to me, and soaking certain woods also makes sense if thats what it takes to bend it.

Does seasoning the wood minimize the swelling/shrinking later on when the wood is wetted during the bending process?

Could the shrinking Ken observed really be an effect that the wood swelled after soaking in warm water for ten minutes only to shrink back when the moisture was driven out by the bending process?

Nice looking uke and a sweet finger board.

Vic D
03-09-2011, 10:57 AM
Darrel, the reason for that is that aging wood slowly preserves the cell structure in a way that's beneficial to the stability of the wood... from what I've read. Soaking the wood doesn't undo the results from slow aging, it's just a temporary thing, softening and expanding the already correctly aged cells so the wood can be bent... I think... Kiln dried wood should be done right too... moisture taken out too fast or too much moisture taken out collapses the cells in a bad way. Don't quote me on any of this... I'm just going on a few articles I read.

Most of my ukes are made of kiln dried poplar from the local hardware store. I cut them down in my damp basement and bring them up to dry in my little hippie studio.

Vic D
03-09-2011, 11:10 AM
The cell structure of sinker wood is a good read too...

Timbuck
03-09-2011, 12:30 PM
Two years ?..Five years ?..10 years ? before the wood is ready ???:D..... I started this hobby too late :eek: I most likely will be dead by then:( ...Luckily there are about 150 of my ukes "without problems" out there on the planet..maybe one or two will survive for a while...Anyway this experiment with the AP is not looking too bad at the moment..And the shrinking problem isn't getting any worse...Tru-oil is the latest thing i'm trying...and the headstock design is weird :confused:...And while I'm waiting for the fret wire to arrive, I'm working on a new device for accurately trimming the fretwire tang ends ...( I think I'll start a new thread on that one)

Pete Howlett
03-09-2011, 10:28 PM
Chuck - all hail Chuck. You make us drool :) However, most of us, though we strive for it, don't have the luxury of being able to do that. What I do know is that koa is very stable once it is 'dry' which is how we all hope to buy wood. The caveat is that 'dry' is a pagorative term which is quite meaningless - hence Chucks intense 'conditioning' schedule. Furthermore, it is why it needs to be 'acclimated' in a workshop. What I firmly believe and from experience is that you can't overdo this sort of thing; so if you have a future in this business you need to buy wood on the 2 for 1 principle and everytime you sell an instrument buy more wood - it's the only way to accumulate a stash like mine or Chuck's...

As for stabilising cell structure - I think these sorts of claims are spurious. All of my instruments have sounded good, some have been expceptional, all have improved. If you can build new a 'vintage' sound what matters if you are building from 5 or 50 yrars seasoned wood.

Timbuck
03-10-2011, 08:20 AM
I thought my new fretboard design was unique:)...until someone brought an old 50's Sky lark in today to have the bridge reglued :confused:
http://i219.photobucket.com/albums/cc143/shiregreenbod/PICT0002-1.jpg

Allen
03-10-2011, 09:01 AM
There's virtually nothing that's new in this game. Build something with an adjustable neck and then you find out that its been done for well over 100 years.

Timbuck
03-17-2011, 11:35 PM
I'm now getting into the final stages of completing this experimental prototype soprano..When it's done..I'll study it for a while and we'll see what improvements can be be made on the next one....This is the bridge I'm making for it.
http://i219.photobucket.com/albums/cc143/shiregreenbod/PICT0105.jpg

HornedOne
03-18-2011, 12:33 AM
cool looking bridge!

Timbuck
03-23-2011, 03:49 AM
Time for serious action:rulez:..The "incredible shrinking soundboard" was was bugging me so I decided to replace it..... and not only was it going concave but it was starting to split as well..so I got out the dismantling kit...Removed the fretboard then unglued the neck dovetail...Routed out the binding..and carfully removed the duff top......due to the depth of the binding channel, the linings now stand up about 1mm proud....Question?? Now do I sand the linings flush with the sides or leave them standing proud when I glue on the new top?:confused:.
http://i219.photobucket.com/albums/cc143/shiregreenbod/PICT0021.jpg

Gmoney
03-23-2011, 03:58 AM
....This is the bridge I'm making for it.


Love the bridge - that two-piece saddle will make it a bit harder for future saddle replacements or under-saddle pickups, though. I'm loving the looks of this experiment.

Allen
03-23-2011, 10:23 AM
I can't see any reason to sand the linings flush. Wack the top back on and rout the lip off of the top. Ready for new bindings.

Timbuck
03-23-2011, 10:26 AM
I can't see any reason to sand the linings flush. Wack the top back on and rout the lip off of the top. Ready for new bindings.
That's what I thought..now you're talking my lingo:D

Timbuck
04-02-2011, 11:08 PM
Now back to where I was a month ago...I made another top and glued it back on..this time I made sure it was moisture free:D..and I didnt put the white plastic bindings in either co's they picked up the red stain from the wood too easily..just the single ebony.

http://i219.photobucket.com/albums/cc143/shiregreenbod/PICT0070.jpg

fromthee2me
04-03-2011, 06:16 AM
Full marks for persisting!

Rob-C
04-03-2011, 10:52 AM
Ken, that top reminds me of Howard Klepper's Dovetail Madness guitar.
In fact I'm going to post a pic just to see if it teases you into trying something similar...
http://www.klepperguitars.com/images/dovetail2.jpg
http://www.klepperguitars.com/dovetail.html#

ps thanks for throwing in a few bits of the padauk in that parcel last week :)

Rob.

Timbuck
04-03-2011, 11:05 AM
Fantastic bit of work!..I love it...but in the decription it dosn't say if it's' got a "Dovetail neck joint" or not:confused:..Let's hope it has:D

tikibar
04-17-2011, 04:13 AM
Well that went a lot easier than expected!...I just soaked the sides for 10 min's in soapy water and took it nice and steady in the bender....I've had Mahogany that gave me more trouble than that...No cracks or wrinkles, no burn marks, and hardly any spring back...It must be beginers luck;)
It made the forming jig go a funny colour tho':D


>< i just cracked my 3th piece on the bender :(

Timbuck
04-28-2011, 01:44 AM
That's it ..It's done at last..I waited 2 weeks for the True-oil to cure and now it can be played..It's not as loud as Mahogany Soprano but it has more sustain and a nice tone...I learned a lot about building and repair making this one and I don't think i'll ever make another like it..It's a good contender for the "daftest looking uke contest" tho':rolleyes:
http://i219.photobucket.com/albums/cc143/shiregreenbod/PICT0029.jpg
http://i219.photobucket.com/albums/cc143/shiregreenbod/PICT0035-2.jpg
http://i219.photobucket.com/albums/cc143/shiregreenbod/PICT0033-1.jpg

tattwo
04-28-2011, 03:13 AM
Thats a beautiful little guy..............Well done

finkdaddy
04-28-2011, 03:34 AM
There's a lot of personality right there!

Gmoney
04-28-2011, 03:40 AM
That's it ..It's done at last..I waited 2 weeks for the True-oil to cure and now it can be played..It's not as loud as Mahogany Soprano but it has more sustain and a nice tone...I learned a lot about building and repair making this one and I don't think i'll ever make another like it..It's a good contender for the "daftest looking uke contest" tho':rolleyes:

So THAT is just amazing looking! Love everything about it! Guess you are going to hang on to this one?! Just crazy cool.

ukeeku
04-28-2011, 03:50 AM
what are you going to call it?

Gmoney
04-28-2011, 03:57 AM
This Uke & thread needs to be branded as NSFUAS!!! Or rated "XXX" for Uke Porn!

ukeeku
04-28-2011, 04:08 AM
Uke pron for sure.

UncleElvis
04-28-2011, 04:22 AM
That's it ..It's done at last..I waited 2 weeks for the True-oil to cure and now it can be played..It's not as loud as Mahogany Soprano but it has more sustain and a nice tone...I learned a lot about building and repair making this one and I don't think i'll ever make another like it..It's a good contender for the "daftest looking uke contest" tho':rolleyes:
http://i219.photobucket.com/albums/cc143/shiregreenbod/PICT0029.jpg
http://i219.photobucket.com/albums/cc143/shiregreenbod/PICT0035-2.jpg
http://i219.photobucket.com/albums/cc143/shiregreenbod/PICT0033-1.jpg

Oh.

My.

Goodness.

The amount of lust I felt for this instrument should be a biblical sin. That thing is uh-MAZE-zing!

I love it!

WANNNT!

bluesuke
04-28-2011, 05:18 AM
That came out beautiful. It was defiantly worth the effort:cheers:

Pete Howlett
04-28-2011, 05:25 AM
Well done Ken - not my cuppa but a great 'diversion'....

finkdaddy
04-28-2011, 10:09 AM
Is that finish just the true oil? It looks so smooth and shiny. I like it!
Did you fill in the grain, or leave it natural?