Soundboard chip-out fix-it

Hi everyone! Does anyone have any advice on how to fix a small chip-out encountered while routing the binding edges? Yes, I did go the right way with router but still happened. This is a fir top and I am thinking of just taking the same wood sawdust and mix with epoxy to fill it. What do you think?

Thanks everyone. Any help is appreciated!

Depends how bad. If it is larger than could be covered by wider purfling a custom inlay would be in order.

In fixing small errors that require filling, I've found that sawdust mixed with white Elmer's glue provides the best color match. Better than epoxy and yellow glue, and much better than CA. YMMV.

This points out the necessity for making climb cuts when routing purfling/binding channels. It's also a good idea to hit the edges first with a sealer of some kind; lacquer works well (I use ca glue), it tends to toughen up the corners a bit.
I have a hunch you will probably be reselling this uke. If that's the case, personally, I'd change the game plan and modify the binding in a way to extend past the damaged area. If that can't be done I'd start over. Repaired areas, no matter how well done, really stand out in light woods like pine or fir. Just my opinion.

If it was a chip from the side of the top, it should be fairly easy to reattach.


I had same thing happen to me, but on the bottom edge of a guitar top. It is not an easy repair. If you have a piece of the same top and can closely match the grain, a piece could be fitted. Any piece that is fitted into the top will show badly if the joint is not close to the same angle as the grain. In other words, you want a "V" shaped piece or some variation like a "M" with uneven legs. Anything close to a horizontal line on the top will be very noticeable. So to make a good repair, you need to cut out beyond the repair area, and the cut a new piece to match.

The fit should look good under a magnifying glass, before it is ready to glue.

It is something done with magnifiers, razor-sharp knives and superglue or hide glue. It took me about 2 hours for me to do the repair.

*I once watched a luthier complete some repair work on an old Amati viola using the same method

or you could do a sunburst top

Like Bob said. (Sounds like some of us have been through this before!)
Then once the patch is dry and sanded, you can take a needle and "scratch" the seams lightly along the grain lines to detract from the joint and create new "grain" lines. It's only somewhat successful with wood that's pretty dark to begin with, but you'll never be able to make it go away. I forgot about the sunburst or tobacco stain. That's a good one. Still, if it's going to bother you through the rest of the process, I'd scrap it. You never want to be in the position where you have to make excuses for or justify your work.

Thanks for all the advice. It's a very small chip-out. I think I will do a tester and try the sawdust and white glue method. It is small but still noticable. I'd hate to scrap it, I put too much work in the rosette! And thank you Chuck for the lacquer/ca sealing advice. I did do climb cuts but...still happened. Live and learn, I guess.

Thanks again everyone!!!