Tips on Shooting Curly/Highly Flamed Wood?

ukegirl13

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Hello my fellow luthiers!
I am having a heck of a time shooting some highly curly and flamed wood. I have not had problems in the past with plain or wood with very little figure. I decided it was time to treat myself to some really nice wood. I have some 4A Myrtle, 3A Claro Walnut, and 4A Koa. All three are being very stubborn! I can't seem to get it candled. I have a nice Veritas plane and a good straight shooting board. I'm wondering if anyone has any tips for me? Before you know it I will have planed to the other side of the board! ;)
 
Irving Sloan demonstrates using a 'sanding stick' in his book on guitar making. I know other luthiers who post here do the same and they may be able to help you. I've never done it and have jointed my fair share of curly woods and with care and a super-sharp plane have managed it...
 
skew the wood in relationship to the knife in the plane, so as not to be cutting at 90 degrees in relationship to the edge of the work. an example: at one the (starting) end the piece is 1/4" off the bed and at the other (finishing) end it's 3/8 or 1/2" off the bed.

knife sharpness, speed, and the depth of the cut are also factors in attaining a workable glue surface.
 
skew the wood in relationship to the knife in the plane, so as not to be cutting at 90 degrees in relationship to the edge of the work. an example: at one the (starting) end the piece is 1/4" off the bed and at the other (finishing) end it's 3/8 or 1/2" off the bed.

knife sharpness, speed, and the depth of the cut are also factors in attaining a workable glue surface.

Thank you New Wave. I skewed the wood and then used Timbuck's technique with the 180 grit. It worked in no time flat. Very appreciative of your help.
 
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