Difficult to replace the Nut?

Howie1947

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Just discovered that the nut on one of my ukes does not seem completely "centered" with respect the the fretboard. One end of the nut seems to protrude just a bit on one side. Thinking about having it looked at. Is there much difficulty removing and replacing it??
 
Just discovered that the nut on one of my ukes does not seem completely "centered" with respect the the fretboard. One end of the nut seems to protrude just a bit on one side. Thinking about having it looked at. Is there much difficulty removing and replacing it??

The Nut is usualy just put on w/a VERY small dot of glue if it is glued at all. You should be able to lightly tap it (carefully) w/the end of a screwdriver (using it like a light mallet) or lightweight hammer to free it & maybe even move it flush w/edge w/o needing to remove it completely.
 
No.. If it doesn't pop off easy like suggested above, try to add a little heat from a hair dryer and try again. Sometimes that will let it pop loose. Before ya try though, take a sharp knife, or X-Acto blade and scribe both sides of it, and around it to be sure there is no glue. I have found that some get overjelous with the glue and when knocking it out, takes a chunk out of the headstock, laminate, or fretboard. So, scribe it all the way around, try and pop it loose, ot a thin blade and finesse it loose by gently prying and wiggling it up. It's not hard..
 
You can even just try to push it over. I know the nut on my Ohana Sk-35G was either never glued on, or they didn't use much glue. It will occasionally migrate over a tad. When it does, I just take my thumb and push it back where it belongs. I
 
technically, they shouldn't use much. It really doesn't need to be glued at all if it fits as it should. But, they do put a little dab in there so it doesn't fall out when changing strings and such. Ya don't want too much though, because of maintenance, nut replacement, etc. Ya want it to be able to be removed without allot of trouble. That said, if it is in there snug as it should be, sometimes it goes slightly below the surface of the headstock or veneer, and of course it does on the fretboard, so ya want to be sure not to pry against that so as not to damage the neck, headstock or fretboard, But a swift, solid knock with a wood dowl or something in a perfect world should knock it out.
 
The thing is, if it's a little to one side but the strings are centered on the neck at the nut you don't want to move it! If it's moved after the slots were cut then yeah, nudge it back so the strings are centered on the fingerboard - otherwise, I'd recommend leaving it alone.

John
 
Old, old, thread. I know...

I messaged the manufacturer to obtain a replacement nut. As of now, I am not skilled at modifying one that is "close" or making my own.

When the above advice says "carefully tap it out," do they mean tipping it away from the fretboard toward the headstock or tapping it sideways across the slot perpendicular to the fretboard?

This one has a string-string spacing problem. #1 to #2 is wider than the rest. It is easiest to see if you look at the strings.
Measured string-string centers:
1-2 .415"
2-3 .380"
3-4 .380"

<edit> Funny, I've had this since April and just noticed it today when changing strings.
 

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I think Stew Mac has a video about removing a guitar nut. Baz has info about adjusting ukulele nuts on his www.gotaukulele.com webiste.

You have to be aware of the residual glue in the slot that has to be cleaned up when you reposition the nut.

I think TUS has a YouTube video as well. I've seen vids that suggest a simple tap on the end will release the nut. Others that use a block of wood and tapped with a light mallet. Heat, to loosen the glue (without warping the fingerboard) etc.

Scribing with a knife may be needed, but most that I've seen have a small amount of glue on the bottom of the nut. But different makers may have different processes.
 
The scribing is also so you don't tear out the finish if there is any on/around the nut...a cleaner break, if you will. Might also need to clean residual glue on the bottom of the nut...also simple task.
 
Thank you, all. I am skilled with a bench magnifier and an X-acto, but pretty rough with a grinder, files, and sandpaper.

That's why I would rather get a replacement from the manufacturer.
 
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