Lindseed oil finish?

finkdaddy

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On my next build I'm thinking of trying an oil finish like some that I have seen here.

Since I have these items in my shop, I was thinking of filling my grain with some water-based filler that I bought from Stew-Mac, then giving it a few coats of lindseed oil, and when that dries, giving it a final coat of Watco wax buffed out with a soft cloth.

Does that sound like it would work? I'm not sure how the lindseed oil will cure.
 
Boiled linseed oil is very slow drying. I find it works well when combined with tung oil and/or poly varnish. I use the Sam Maloof poly/oil and oil/wax on all the cherry furniture I have built over the years. I would never use straight boiled linseed oil though.
 
I used linseed oil on a 130 yr old victorian door that had been chemically stripped (not by me).

The wood was dry as a bone - and it soaked up 2 pints of linseed oil with a block of beewax melted in like a sponge.

done outside, in the sun. it was dry in minutes.

So I guess it depends on how dry the wood is. Dried to a nice satin finish. and absolutely dry - not oily or greasy or moist.

personally tho - for a sweet finish I'd be inclined to patiently apply 4-5 coats of danish oil. 0000 wire wool between coats. then buff with a cloth. it's a great way to a hard, smooth, satin/gloss finish.

6sc
 
Thanks everyone. I have a lot of info to work with now. When I get that far I will definately post pics. :)
 
Linseed oil never truly cures. As such it attracts dirt and breaks down.

Try a true Tung Oil, but polymerized - the cure time is much better than with raw (30 days versus 3 decades), and the dry time is only a day or two.

Sutherland Welles is a reliable source - the orginal gloss interior oil. It's also a good idea to get something like BlOxygen (argon gas in a spray can) to keep the oil from curing in the can once you open it.
 
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