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View Full Version : My new Uke Photoshoot....



Tudorp
05-06-2011, 01:44 AM
Here is the bad egg repaired, refinished, and re-setup. It's done, and it is really a fine uke now. I actually love it, sounds awesome. Now I just have to come up with a name. I think it's gonna be "Trouble Child" or something to that effect. But, none the less, I am proud to add it to my personal collection. You can see in the pictures on the lower bout, you can see the knot that caused the problem. See the knot, and then the matting line of the bookmatched wood, then just symetrically across on the other side of the bookmatch is where the crack developed. You can still see it, but it is stable and a good repair. Simply cosmetic now. But, the goal was not to make it invisible, it was to make it a good uke, so the scar is just fine by me.

I think it turned out just fine and it is a nice play.
http://i1238.photobucket.com/albums/ff490/Tudorp/uke2f.jpg?t=1304681930

http://i1238.photobucket.com/albums/ff490/Tudorp/uke2a.jpg?t=1304681930

http://i1238.photobucket.com/albums/ff490/Tudorp/uke2b-1.jpg?t=1304681930

http://i1238.photobucket.com/albums/ff490/Tudorp/uke2c.jpg?t=1304681930

Lexxy
05-06-2011, 02:09 AM
Wow that Mahogany really shimmers. Is it mahogany?

Tudorp
05-06-2011, 02:19 AM
Nope, this one is Acacia (a.k.a. Asian Koa, or Australian Blackwood). It does have a cool hologram effect in this type of wood.

Lexxy
05-06-2011, 02:30 AM
Wow that Acacia really shimmers. :P

rem50
05-06-2011, 02:31 AM
You will always be able to pick it out in a crowd from the front or back! Nice!

PhilUSAFRet
05-06-2011, 03:24 AM
Veeeeerrrrrrrrryyyyyyyy Interesting!!!!!! Nice job!

Kauai808
05-06-2011, 03:28 AM
That is some sexy acacia! I am more and more impressed with these ukes with every post

Gmoney
05-06-2011, 03:35 AM
It is pretty, thats a fact. Would like to know what & how you finished it with?? I have been thinking of trying my hand at refinishing a "junker" that I picked up for the practice as I want to maybe build one this year.

Also, though it really looks pretty, it appears that at least the back is "flat sawn" instead of "quarter sawn" - which we often hear from the luthiers are less desirable cuts. Makes for some great accents & that "hologram" effect you mentioned though. Good job on the rework & good wishes for your new endeavor as well.

mm stan
05-06-2011, 03:48 AM
Aloha Tudorp,
Another beauty, You must be getting spoiled with all these ukes to play eh..ha ha have fun and enjoy....may your new venture prosper...MM Stan

Tudorp
05-06-2011, 03:54 AM
When I do a refinish on anything I mess with,(guitars, or ukes), I finish them in nitrocellulose Lacquer. It is a bit more costly than just a more modern poly coat, but, you can get a beautiful finish with it. It was more commonly used years ago, and many of the top tier guitar manufactures still use it. If ya take the time to sand between coats, and polish it, you can get a very glossy, glass like finish with it. I didn't do all that with this uke. I simply applied about 6 coats of Nitro lacquer, but didn't polish it. It has a natural shine to it without polishing it, but if you polish it, that is when you get the very glossy glass finish. I may do that with this one sooner or later, but I just wanted to get it back playing for now. I'm loving it, so I may go ahead and put a couple more coats on it, level & polish it. With the wood on the front, this if I do that will REALLY pop.

I sanded all the original poly "statin" finish off with a 100 grit paper, then 300 grit, and finished with a 400 grit, as well as the dark edge burst the builder put on it, wiped it down with denatured alcohol colored with a reddish mahogany toned pigment powder to bring the grain out with some contrast, then 4-6 coats of the Nitro Lacquer. Actually, I did a pretty quick job of it. If I were finishing it for a re-sale, I would have gone on up to about 800 grit, then 1000-1800 grit between Nitro coats, then final polish. Still might end up doing that after I play it for awhile tho.

I did my Gibson Les Paul that way, and you can see your face and shave in it's finish.

As far as materials, I use "Reranch" products. They are not the cheapest in cost, but I find are the best out there. Also makes it much easier to work with if you heat the lacquer before you shoot it. I heat the materials to between 80-90 degrees, and also heat the surface I am shooting a bit with a hair dryer. It really lays on very smooth and even if it is heated a bit. Actually, some know when I was able, I used to restore classic cars, and hot rods. Always did my own body work, welding, and painting of my hot rods, and the techniques I used on that, are very similar to refinishing an instrument.