Wouldn't that mess with strumming if the strings are at unequal heights? It seems like the G and A strings would be lower than the others and consequently get strummed a little less. I understand that it would start to even out more as it approached the bridge, but I wonder how noticeable it would be.
My recently aquired R.L Saul concert (15 5/16" scale) has a radiused fretboard and saddle.
The action on the E and C strings was just a little higher than i like, so i lowered the curved saddle just at the center area and re-rounded and polished the top. (it's an ivory saddle)
I initially measured a 6 mm saddle height under the A and G string sides of the saddle, and around
6.8 mm under the E and C strings. (the saddle was even higher in the very middle where no string touched).
.....i ended up lowering the saddle height from 6.8 mm to about 6.5 mm for the E & C strings,
and it's perfect for my style of play.
One thing i noticed on the Ron Saul is you definately KNOW you have a radiused fretboard and
saddle, because the E & C middle strings were noticably higher than the A & G strings.
They still are higher, but not quite so much now.
For me, there is a little difference in the feel when strumming, not so much when fingerpicking.
In strumming, i have to concentrate a little more to angle my fingers down to
make sure i hit the A string as loudly as the others. (yet not touch the top with my nails)
I think if it was the only ukulele i played, it would get easier. But switching off between various
other ukes that have a flat fretboard creates the need for an initial "warm up" period when
then going back to the radiused fretboard.
The Ron Saul uke has only been around for a few days, so it's still pretty new to me.
I suspect it will become automatic the more i play it.
