Band saw questions

kenikas

kenikas

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I have been closely following dave g 's new band saw thread, since I've also been looking for a new saw and am "thrifty" (OK...cheap!). And rather than hijack his thread I figured I'd start this one. I had been leaning towards the new Grizzly Polar Bear 14", but the Harbor Frieght one is substantially cheaper. As many here have said, and from personal experience, I have some nagging doubts about their quality. Now for my questions, I have found locally an older JET JWBS 14 that has the 6" frame extension installed, but no motor or switch. I understand the OEM motors may leave a bit to be desired and a stronger one would be a needed upgrade anyway. What size and type of motor would you all recommend? I am hoping to go look at it tomorrow and the guy is asking $150 for it but he's had it advertised for quite a while so I may be able to talk him down to $100, do you think it would be worth it? You are all always so much help for us fledgling builders, and I really value your help and opinions.
 
http://www.rockler.com/tech/WMH/M_708115K.pdf

Check the tires and factor replacements into your price. You'll need to match the RPM and also the pulley diameter. 1.25 - 1.5HP should be enough for a 1/2" blade. I wouldn't go over 1/2" on a 14" saw. If you have problems finding a replacement motor call Jimbo at http://www.generalindustrial.com/ in Nashville. TN. They are one of the outlets for WMH Tools Group and have great prices on scratch and dent Jet and Powermatic tools. You can get a good price on a new motor and pulley from him.
 
I would think $100 would be a pretty good deal. You can pick up a lightly used Baldor 2 hp motor on ebay for $100 to $200, maybe less. I would much rather see you pick up a decent used saw than buying one at harbor freight. You may want to ascribe to my belief that no tools should be bought from Harbor Freight if the have moving parts. Electrical parts and sharp blades from Harbor? Oh hell no!!!
 
Tarhead said:
Check the tires and factor replacements into your price.
Click to expand...

+1 for checking the tires. I was doing some milling down at a friends shop today with his Grizzly 20" re-saw and just as he started it up, the bottom tire snapped and let his brand new carbide tipped 1" blade jump the track. There was damage to the saw and the $400+ bladed was tossed in to the trash. There are not that many parts to ware out on a band saw, but the tires are defiantly one of them.
 
The Jet saws are (or were) pretty decent copies of the Delta/Rockwell types. Go for 2 or 3 horsepower.

My resaw (a Baker AX) runs the blade on bare steel wheels for accuracy. The set up is that the teeth hang off the wheel.

Check out Carter for all band saw upgrade accessories. Great tires, fantastic guides, etc.
 
Mahalo nui loa for all the great suggestions, I'm definately looking into the Carter upgrades. Great book reference Timbuck, I may have the pick up a copy if that one. I still haven't been able to get over to look at the saw ( had to fly for the last few days), I had pretty much figured the tires and blade would need to be replaced but are there any other parts you all think I should look closely at? My next door neighbor owns a Baldor service center and said they could hook me up with a motor, and they also work on a lot of power tools and may have some parts for the saw if needed.
 
Folks looking for a bandsaw might want to check out their local Sears store. I was in the one in Hayward, CA yesterday, and they are closing out their Model 22401, a 14-in professional floor-standing model with 1HP continuous duty motor and 2 cutting speeds. List price for these was over $500, and online prices were over $300. In-store close-out price is $197. They had four in stock, but now they only have three.
 
phiba said:
Folks looking for a bandsaw might want to check out their local Sears store. I was in the one in Hayward, CA yesterday, and they are closing out their Model 22401, a 14-in professional floor-standing model with 1HP continuous duty motor and 2 cutting speeds. List price for these was over $500, and online prices were over $300. In-store close-out price is $197. They had four in stock, but now they only have three.
Click to expand...
I've just been having a look at that here... http://www.searsoutlet.com/d/product_details.jsp?md=ct_md&pid=9274&mode=buyUsedOnly it's almost identical to the one I use here in the UK only the name is different.... mine cost about $1000 :(
Grab one it's a bargain:D
 
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Timbuck said:
I've just been having a look at that here... http://www.searsoutlet.com/d/product_details.jsp?md=ct_md&pid=9274&mode=buyUsedOnly it's almost identical to the one I use here in the UK only the name is different.... mine cost about $1000 :(
Grab one it's a bargain:D
Click to expand...

Ken, I've got no first hand experience with importing large numbers of machines but it is my understanding that many importers can and do order a run of machines that will come out of the same molds. However, one importer might specify decent bearings, cast wheels, nice guides, decent powered motor, racing stripes, sunroofs etc while another will want bargain basement everything so he can sell it cheap. In the catalogue/internet page it looks the same but the difference can be night and day (and cheap vs. less cheap). That said machines are certainly cheaper in the US vs Australia and the UK.

When I was a boy I couldn't tell the difference between a porche and VW beetle with a spoiler kit. I bet if I'd had a chance to ride in both I would have worked it out pretty quick
 
liam_fnq said:
Ken, I've got no first hand experience with importing large numbers of machines but it is my understanding that many importers can and do order a run of machines that will come out of the same molds. However, one importer might specify decent bearings, cast wheels, nice guides, decent powered motor, racing stripes, sunroofs etc while another will want bargain basement everything so he can sell it cheap. In the catalogue/internet page it looks the same but the difference can be night and day (and cheap vs. less cheap). That said machines are certainly cheaper in the US vs Australia and the UK.
When I was a boy I couldn't tell the difference between a porche and VW beetle with a spoiler kit. I bet if I'd had a chance to ride in both I would have worked it out pretty quick
Click to expand...
Yes you're right ..The company that markets these in the UK is a Swiss based Co called SIP..this is their version of it "almost the same with different knobs":)
mybandsaw.jpg
01489 SIP 14" WOOD BAND SAW

FEATURES:

Powerful 1000W 1.3hp motor
Magnetic NVR switch
Dual speeds
Quick Lock Rip Fence and Cross Cut mitre guide included
Fully adjustable blade tensioning and tracking
Large 45º tilting table
Dust extraction facility
Open door auto power shut down
Rack and pinion rise and fall guide
Sturdy curved doors
Blade tension guide
Cast iron table
Max width cut - 14" - 345mm
Blade length - 2490mm
Max cutting height - 8 1/4" - 210mm
Table size - 440 x 550mm
2 speed - 440 x 900m/min
Net weight - 70kgs
Blade size - 6 - 20mm
 
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For what it's worth, (at least in terms of scrap metal), the Sears one is quite a bit heavier at 97kg than the SIP.
 
I have a cheapo 14" band saw and have messed with it for more years than I care to think about. From this I can tell you:
Nice blades are well nice, well worth the money, mine are made locally, rake (angle of the tooth) and TPI,( teeth per inch) make a big difference for what they cost.
I have changed the tires only once since 1982, but they were not cheap, but worth the price for performance.
Something not mentioned yet was the blade guides. I have used the blocks, store bought and home made, and the bearing type of guides. I found the blocks not all that bad really and a lot quieter than the bearings, but I have the bearings in use now. The blade tension and a good blade tracking/guide set up will help a lot in getting a veneer thin cut on a thick piece.
So if you have good blade and control of tension and blade tracking you are set. I know this is not brand specific but elements to consider
When it comes to a fence yu can build a nice one for a minimal time and cost so I do not consider it a factor.
Cheers Ron.
 
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