Latest Myrtle Tenor

tattwo

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I thought I would share my progress on my latest build. I will bend the sides tomorrow. I hope all goes well

Thanks for looking
 

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Man, you Oregonians seem to find the best looking myrtle. Is the Cottage Grove mill still operating? They used to mill up the nicest Doug Fir.

Anyway great lookin uke.

Steve
 
Man, you Oregonians seem to find the best looking myrtle. Is the Cottage Grove mill still operating? They used to mill up the nicest Doug Fir.

Anyway great lookin uke.

Steve


Yes the mill is still running strong. I get to hear the whistle blow late at night. Its 2 miles away and sometimes I would swear its next door ;)
 
Nice wood choice. That's going to be a beautiful instrument. I'll say a little side bending prayer for you....;)
 
No side bending prayers needed - myrtle is the easiest and sweetest of woods to bend in my experience. One observation - your bridge patch seem small... I extend mine to within 1/2" of the sides and taper each end into a lune shape.
 
No side bending prayers needed - myrtle is the easiest and sweetest of woods to bend in my experience. One observation - your bridge patch seem small... I extend mine to within 1/2" of the sides and taper each end into a lune shape.

Youre right Pete myrtle hasnt given me much trouble. Why would I need a larger patch?
 
This patch looks smaller than mine ;)

My tops seem to be plenty strong even without the patch. The main reason I use them is to protect the spruce from the string beads.........it's not really about strength.
 
My tops seem to be plenty strong even without the patch. The main reason I use them is to protect the spruce from the string beads.........it's not really about strength.

Jake I hope you didn't mind me using you as an example.
 
Nice tight looking work Terry... and that myrtle is stunning as always. My first tenor is going to be figured maple... but I sure am gonna make my 2nd myrtle. That stuff is just beautiful.
 
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Hey tattwo, that looks very nice. I second Pete's suggestion and here's why. When you end your bridge patch right at the edge of the braces, you create a hard spot right along that edge. In time as the top expands and contracts due to humidity changes, that spot is a candidate for cracks. My bridge patches are both tapered and thinned on the ends to provide for a gradual change in stiffness along the top.

Brad
 
My bridge patches are also tapered and thinned on the ends. I also sand the radius into them so that they're not trying to pull away from the top. :)

Hmmm, hey old Martins are like that!... except for the radiused top ;)

Oh, and I use rosewood always for bridge and bridge patch because (tone) I'm superstitious.
 
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Hey tattwo, that looks very nice. I second Pete's suggestion and here's why. When you end your bridge patch right at the edge of the braces, you create a hard spot right along that edge. In time as the top expands and contracts due to humidity changes, that spot is a candidate for cracks. My bridge patches are both tapered and thinned on the ends to provide for a gradual change in stiffness along the top.

Brad

That does make sense Brad. Thanks for explaining the reasoning behind it
 
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