10 ukes forward..6 ukes back

Timbuck

Well-known member
Joined
Mar 10, 2009
Messages
6,614
Reaction score
1,887
Location
Stockton on Tees..North East UK.
Now that Mrs Timbucks new fitted kitchen is just about completed .. I can at last get back into the workshop and start work again, I spent most of today bending soprano sides for my next batch...I intended bending 16 sets of sides...But I ended up having to scrap 6 cracked sets :( mainly due to grain run out..but 10 sets came out ok:) so life's not too bad I suppose.
 
Hi Ken,.....i "scrapped out" a uke i just recieved in from a member here yesterday,......just happened to be
one of your ukes,.... #160. :eek:

.....more properly, i scrapped out just a "little piece", when i put in a soundport on the upper side of the lower
bout last night. :D (I'll post a pic later)

I've gotten really used to the extra feedback a soundport gives the player, and decided to get it set up the way i like, since i plan on keeping it a long while.

Your post here about the 6 cracked sets out of 16 seemed a bit unusual, so i was curious and went searching for the piece i had taken out of your Martin style 1 mahogany soprano and put a mm guage to it. It measured almost a full 2 mm thick.

I had saved the kurly koa piece i had taken out of my Ron Saul concert a few weeks ago, and that measured just 1.5 mm. (also for a soundport to gain access for some experimental work)

That Saul instrument seems very lightly built overall, and with a one piece spruce top is probably my loudest and most responsive uke. The soundport made it that much more enjoyable to use everyday, in my preferred concert size.
It's 11 years old, and had some light finger marks to the top in the upper bout area, so it's been played.

I just opened it up a little more! :music:

I'm NOT a luthier, and have never built an instrument, so please take this to heart and not in the wrong way.
But i'm wondering if you thicknessed down to a thinner 1.5 mm or so dimension, your side breakage rate might drop
significantly? Maybe not with the grain runout you mentioned, so it might not matter in that case....???

.....i'm just a tinkerer, but it seems like side bending might go easier, keep the overall weight down on the instrument, and possibly make for other acoustic resonant benefits....all the while saving a few extra side sets.

BTW, the seller or your #160 had put black Worth strings on it, but i went back to Aquila nylguts because of the meatier feel and better responce, at least to my ears. The black color also made them hard to see!

While doing the string change i decided to make a slightly higher ebony saddle also, (not sure if the previous owner had lowered the saddle, as he mentioned he likes low action) I went up 1mm total of saddle height, just enough to allow heavier string attack for clean playing,.....a bit louder also that way for fingerstyle
work.

I like the ability to punch a few notes, or strum with abandonment from time to time! I fine tuned the string height at the nut also, to my preference at just a touch more the the string height as found while fretting the 1st fret strings.
Final adjustment was sanding off, smoothing, and polishing off the top of the nut. The stings are secure in each slot
but not much more of the nut is above them. (about flush)

(all preferences a luthier can't know to the end user, or a 2nd party user in this case)

Anyway.....just thinking out loud here.

:cheers:
 
Last edited:
Well Mr. Timbuck, As if you didn't feel bad enough about having to scrap six side sets, along comes a guy that has never built a uke, cuts a hole in one of yours and tells you that you should make your sides thinner.
Some days you eat bear and some days the bear eats you.
 
Well Mr. Timbuck, As if you didn't feel bad enough about having to scrap six side sets, along comes a guy that has never built a uke, cuts a hole in one of yours and tells you that you should make your sides thinner.
Some days you eat bear and some days the bear eats you.

I "did" say i wasn't a luthier,....so not sure the ranges of side thickness you guys build with. Probably dependant on
the material also. (koa as opposed to mahogany here?)

......don't want no bear fight. Besides, i don't have to outrun the bear,.....just gotta outrun YOU! hehe

I made it round this time, as i picked up a flexable drafting template of various sized circles. Tim's use of french polish slowed me down after carefully cutting the main part out within the magic marker outine. Usually i don't worry too much about removing any remaining magic
marker, as alchol easily removes it,.....but i knew in this case the any alcohol would remove the shellac also!
(i found out Tim uses that finish when i tracked down his recent ebay sale of this uke and he mentions it)

Using a Foredom handpiece with a 1/2" rubber backed sanding drum was slower work than usual to keep any heat to the minimum. If you didn't stop every few seconds, you could see the shellac near the sanding spot begin to melt! Slow and steady did the job. Final hand sanding completed the job.

Sometimes i'll work a little slower acting superglue underneath the area around the soundhole, like i did on
the Ron Saul concert with the thinner sides. Still might do it here, but eventually i want to bind them when i find the
time and materials.

By the way,....in over 10 years or so of adding a soundport in various guitars, and now ukuleles, i've never had a crack
develope where it was cut,.....and none were bound. A few i didn't use any superglue either, but just in case did it on
a few ukes. Gause like backing might be a good idea also, when i get around to getting some. I do finish the edges really good, however, as it looks better. Removing the rough grain edges probably helps in preventing cracks also?

Here are the pics i mentioned i'd post once i got them ready:

KenTimmsUke046.jpg


KenTimmsUke044.jpg


....and the nut the way i like them,.....low and lean with NO buzzes, of course:

KenTimmsUke069.jpg


KenTimmsUke080.jpg
 
Last edited:
By the way,....adding a soundport creates access to views of the interior that would not be possible without them.

....i love learning all your guys "secrets"! lol

KenTimmsUke040.jpg


KenTimmsUke029.jpg


KenTimmsUke030.jpg


KenTimmsUke032.jpg
 
Last edited:
Now that Mrs Timbucks new fitted kitchen is just about completed .. I can at last get back into the workshop and start work again, I spent most of today bending soprano sides for my next batch...I intended bending 16 sets of sides...But I ended up having to scrap 6 cracked sets :( mainly due to grain run out..but 10 sets came out ok:) so life's not too bad I suppose.

Don't feel bad, sometimes it just goes that way. A few years ago I bought some of the wildest curly mango I've ever seen. I had the board resawn and cut it up into about a dozen uke sets. I've always learned to bend the sides before spending time gluing up the tops and backs, just in case something goes wrong in the bending process. Well I cracked nine sides before I gave up. It serious runout and radical curl and it just crumbled on me. I finally hauled damned stuff to the burn pile, not getting even one set from the mess.
 
Well Mr. Timbuck, As if you didn't feel bad enough about having to scrap six side sets, along comes a guy that has never built a uke, cuts a hole in one of yours and tells you that you should make your sides thinner.
Some days you eat bear and some days the bear eats you.
Chuck !...it was just one board that produced the cracked sides..All the good ones came from another.

farner!...It's a strange tale about that Style "O" type Soprano...I don't normally number my ukes, but that one was "special" being the 160th uke that I've built in the 4 years since I started so it got a number stamped on the headstock..I auctioned on E-bay like I normaly do ..and it went to a Guy in the US..the first thing he did was change the strings (fair enough we all do that) Then he decided he didn't like the friction tuners..and swapped them for geared ones :((like sticking ears on it, as they say on Cosmos)...now it was starting to look less like a Style "O" and more like a style "X"...now it's had a hole cut in the lower bout to reduce the bass end tone I presume..co's that is what it will do..and the Guy sent me PM's telling me about all the mod's.. ? should I be impressed?? (Mrs Timbuck ain't)...I would like to know if the value of this uke has now gone up or down...I'm expecting a pick up unit to be fitted to it next ..(along with strap buttons:) who cares... it's his uke he can do what he wants with it.:p
 
Last edited:
Chuck !...it was just one board that produced the cracked sides..All the good ones came from another.

farner!...It's a strange tale about that Style "O" type Soprano...I don't normally number my ukes, but that one was "special" being the 160th uke that I've built in the 4 years since I started so it got a number stamped on the headstock..I auctioned on E-bay like I normaly do ..and it went to a Guy in the US..the first thing he did was change the strings (fair enough we all do that) Then he decided he didn't like the friction tuners..and swapped them for geared ones :((like sticking ears on it, as they say on Cosmos)...now it was starting to look less like a Style "O" and more like a style "X"...now it's had a hole cut in the lower bout to reduce the bass end tone I presume..co's that is what it will do..and the Guy sent me PM's telling me about all the mod's.. ? should I be impressed?? (Mrs Timbuck ain't)...I would like to know if the value of this uke has now gone up or down...I'm expecting a pick up unit to be fitted to it next ..(along with strap buttons:) who cares... it's his uke he can do what he wants with it.:p

Ken,.... just want to be clear here,.....i did NOT send you a single PM,.....so maybe you meant the guy that sold it to me. (although that's not what it sounds like above)

Also,....yes,....the C string drops a bit (the "bass" on a uke, but it sounded a bit boomy anyway to my ears before the change anyway), but the E string picks up about the same amount of volumn/tone lost from the C string on the original setup. I prefer the added E string response (with soundport) for fingerstyle solo's, and in my mind it's a wash. You lose somewhere, you gain somewhere else. The A and G strings about the same with or without the port.

One thing additional you gain with the soundport is player feedback, as it's almost a stereo effect with the soundport added. That's important for me,.....because that's who i play for,...just ME. If a certain piece of music calls for a
strong C string,....simple enough to grab another un-ported uke.

This is simple enough to show by simply plucking the C with the soundport open and then quicky closing it with part of your hand. The C is less boomy, with some drop in volumn with port open. More bass response and a bit richer, port closed.

Now pluck the E string with hand over the port to seal it, and quickly open the port. There is a noticeably greater volumn and richer tone now on the E string with port open.

I wasn't concerned with changing it from a Style "O" to something different, btw, because as you point out the eared
tuning gears already do that. (difference in fretboard inlays also). I like geared tuners,....a modern update that
improves fuctionality. A soundport also is a more modern addition in recent times,.....tradition be damed. If i was
worried about tradition i would have bought a vintage stlye "O"

Oh,....no strap buttons or pickups on this one in it's future,....so stop getting all riled up. Value wise,....don't care personally. I didn't have a "hog" uke yet,.....so not likely it's going anywhere until i do. I'd venture a guess there
are other side-port fans out there anyway,....and i'd only need one if i ever decided to sell it.

One thing i am thinking of making is a removable mahogany "plug" with a little soft rubber edge to have it self seal. That's part of the reason i put a round port in rather than oval. This will give it the versatility to have the "C" string emphasized with the plug in, or the "E string emphasized with the plug out.

.....best of both worlds this way, and when i'm playing for "me",....the port is open for the player's sudo-stereo
effect.

Anyway,....the other changes i made (higher saddle) was because i like to be able to play some things harder without
buzzing. The uke got to me with pretty low action,.....and i'm thinking the previous owner might have lowered the saddle as he mentioned he likes a low action. (think i mentioned that in my 1st post). The nut trimming on the part above the strings (once action is set at nut) is just someting i like to do. To me it just looks "neater", and feels better when working up tight to it (sometimes with part of your hand "over" the nut).

Anyway,....i "was" warned that the guys over at Cosmos were a bit traditional (more than a "bit", actually), and sounds
like you might be also. (hehe,...yep, a style "O" speciality builder!)

But in my defense,....i bought it with the ears sticking out, so it was already defiled!

I'm not even sure what the sides on a vintage Martin Style "O" would measure out at, but the few i've handled in
person seemed pretty lightly built. With all the ones you see for sale having had or needing crack repairs done, i'd
venture a guess Martin built them with 1.5 mm or so side thickness, .......just never cut a port in one to find out.

So i guess if you're building your sides a bit thicker than the original,.....it's probably a good thing to prevent a lot
of future headaches for you and your customers. My point being,....vintage "style" is just that,.....not a dead on
copy.

........now, do you offer this in a ,.............."cutaway"?????? :D

cheers,
Joe T

BTW,....i was "made" and "born" over your part of the world. (you figure it out! )

I lived in England till i was 6 months old, and flew back to the US in my
only flight,.....ever! Still won't fly, and just turned 55.
 
Last edited:
Hey Joe; I wonder if you could put a cork in it?
The kind I'm thinking of are used as stoppers in big mouth bottles and jars.... like apothecary jars?
You might find one the right size or larger and sand it down to fit.
 
....ummmm????, cork might just do it, but for the sealing medium. I'd still want the outer part to be mahogany or ebony maybe,.....almost flush fit with just a thumbnail lip to pull it loose when needed. Cork works well and lasts a
long time on woodwind instruments like clarinets, where each section of the instrument (4 or 5 pieces?) has 1 side
fitted with cork to make a durable connector. They use a wax lubricant, i think, to make the pieces slide together
easier,....but those sections are much longer than the side thickness of a uke.

....i doubt any lube will be required. I'll do a web search and see what's available.

Thanks for the thought,......i'm gonna "cork it" soon! :D
 
Some guitar builders have installed a sliding door inside the bout so that you can adjust the size of the aperature. Cool idea but a little over the top for ukulele I think.
 
Some guitar builders have installed a sliding door inside the bout so that you can adjust the size of the aperature. Cool idea but a little over the top for ukulele I think.

Yeah,...i've seen those in a few custom builds. Maybe a bit over the top for "most" ukuleles,....but i can think of a builder's work it would look right at home on! :D

Definately a job best left to a uke build before the sound box is sealed up though. I can't imagine how a good fit can be done otherwise, or a major problem like the sliding door getting frozen in whatever internal guide rails you plan to install by a a bit of wayward glue. With a guitar (larger sound hole), you might be able to work thru the hole and get it to work,......a uke i doubt it.

I found a source of cork stoppers in a size that should work pretty easy. The size 13 cork measures just a little over the 1 inch hole i cut for the soundport. I'll cap the cork with a nice piece of mahogany once i can locate a close matching piece to the uke, and then cut off the remaining length of cork. I don't need an inch of cork in the soundport, just enough to seal and lock itself in place. After a few days a "set" should show in the cork, and i'll relieve it a wisker to give it a sort of pop in fit.

The mahogany cap's inner shape i'll conform to the shape of the lower bout over the hole,.....hoping for just 1mm or so sticking up,....to get a fingernail under to remove when wanted.

Free shipping for orders over $20.00 , so i got there ordering a few other items.

http://www.widgetco.com/13-cork-stoppers-extra

Features & Specifications
Top Diameter: 1-3/16" (1.187" or 30mm)
Bottom Diameter: 61/64" (.953" or 24mm)
Length: 1-1/4" (1.250" or 31mm)
 
Last edited:
If i was
worried about tradition i would have bought a vintage stlye "O"


That's the best quote I've read on this thread!! Seeing all of Joe's posts, he'll put a hole in everything besides his head and it seems like he tried to put a hole in his finger!! LOL

All kidding aside, like Timbuk said, the owner can do whatever he wants
 
Last edited:
That's the best quote I've read on this thread!! Seeing all of Joe's posts, he'll put a hole in everything besides his head and it seems like he tried to put a hole in his finger!! LOL

All kidding aside, like Timbuk said, the owner can do whatever he wants

I actually have maybe 25 acoustic guitars i haven't cut into,....don't plan to either. But a few of the lower priced ones
i did for when i want that player "feedback" thing. One i ported is a Martin/Humphrey "Millenium" classical that
Martin licensed from Tom awhile back. It had already been gone over personally by Thomas Humphrey wherein he
removed the heavier lacquer finish from the top, replaced the bridge with one of his, and french polished the top.
It was always a sore point with Tom as Martin wouldn't finish the top the way he envisioned.....

Anyway, since it was already an altered "Martin" classical, (and i believe the best sounding model they ever made!), i figured it was the one to port. I also own a sweet original Humphrey "Millenium as well as another CTSH, so having one classical ported is just a bit more fun when i'm in the mood. Since Tom did his thing,....the Martin version is very close
to the original Millenium i own. Not as light or resonant,.....but close and a better travel guitar for sure. Not about to
travel with the original that ran 10X the Martin version!

Oh,...i didn't intentionally put a hole in my hand,.....more like an accidental slab cut filet! :eek:
 
Last edited:
From now on! he will be known to me as "Hole'y Joe" :bowdown::bowdown: :D

I can live with that!

When i first started playing poker a few years ago, after 30 years of playing serious money blackjack, i saw a
lot of flops. (new player "fault")

......they still sometimes call me "FloppyJoe" at the poker table,......but not as ready to sit down and play with me as they used to! :D
 
Hi Ken,

long time no see!

so this is what you have been up to fitting kitchens and hanging out here?
are you coming along to the club anytime soon?
i have another repair job i need advice on
 
Top Bottom