Binding bit..

I am going to start playing with Binding. I want to add binding on my Les paul steel string uke. What bits do you guys use for cutting binding. I assume it is just a "Rabbet" bit. But, what size and bearing size to you guys suggest for cutting for a 1/4" binding, .60 and .90 deep? Do they make one for a dremel? or will a Dremel work? I have the stewmac router base for my dremel, and it works very nice, but is that heavy enough to cut binding channels?

While it is possible to cut binding channels with a Dremel and Stew-Mac sells an attachment for it, I wouldn't recommend doing so. You would need a rock-steady hand to get a decent cut. I use the LMI bit and bearings in a Bosch Colt laminate trimmer that is mounted on the Stew-Mac binding jig, and even that setup sometimes wobbles too much if I'm not very careful. This is one area where it doesn't pay to be cheap, IMO. Why take the chance of ruining an almost complete soundbox due to an unfortunate tool choice?

true... I have more options. I have a larger router (craftsman), but also a really nice Rockwell laminate router I have used for years. It's an awesome, stable and powerful little router. I will probably use that one for binding, just didn't know if the dremel would be large enough to consider.

If you're serious about building, get either the LMI binding machine or the Blues Creek one designed by Harry Fleishman.

You can't do decent binding routing with a big router unless you modify the base or build a dedicated setup of which there are a number of approaches. I'm assuming you're doing at least a slight dome on top and back.

Or get a gramil and do it by hand. The Spanish and Mexican guitar makers do, and they work quickly, surely, and accurately.

Tooling up to make instruments is not for the faint of heart, and learning to work with hand tools can do wonders for your skill with machines.

I've got the stewmac machine with the LMI binding bit. A laminate trimmer provides the power.

Getting bindings right is one of the hardest parts of the build process. With enough practice and skill you can cut the ledges by hand with a gramil and chisel. Personally by the time I'm ready to cut the binding ledge I've got too many hours invested to risk a slip of the chisel with my gumby fingers.

I use the LMI binding cutters in a laminate trimmer. Modified base for ukes. A very intricate arm and another modified base for guitars.

As Rick said. Tooling up is definitely not for the faint of heart. For a lot of instruments then the router cutters are the way to go, but for just a few, I'd look at the gramil and some sharp chisels.

I'd never even consider the dremel for this task. It's just not up to the job.

That gramil looks interesting. I didn't even see one of those before. Do you use that cutter on both top and side line, then chisel out the notch? I might go that route.

Ok, this brings up another question concerning these types of cutters. Personally, I kinda like the idea of doing it by hand, and the more I read, the more I like these gramils. I have seen two different types. The blade type LMI sells, and a knife type that Stewmac sells. Have any of you used each of these, or familier with their concepts. Which would you say is the safest, and best to use, and why? I believe I want to get one of these, but unsure which I want to go with.

As always, thanks in advance for advice.

Stewmac's
http://www.stewmac.com/shop/Tools/S...bex_Purfling_Cutter.html?tab=Pictures#details

LMI's
http://www.lmii.com/CartTwo/thirdproducts.asp?NameProdHeader=Schneider+Gramil

I use the one from Stew-Mac when building with a Spanish heel. The gramil allows me to cut the binding channel near the neck where the router can't reach. The double blades on the Stew-Mac version are for cutting purfling channels. When cutting binding channels, which requires one blade, the tools look to be functionally identical. IMO, cutting binding channels all the way around a soundbox with a gramil would be a royal PITA. The chances of cutting an uneven channel are very high compared with a router bit and bearing. I'll be very interested to see how you do.

The double blades are for purfling channels on violin edged instruments that do not have binding, however, you can use these gramils with a single blade with no problem. Router bit and bearing is great, but that's going to depend on whether or not the top and or back are domed. If they are, then you're going to get a varying width of rabbet as the router tilts out to different degrees at different places around the rim...

Some of this stuff you just have to do and screw up to understand. There is no teacher like failure and then the inspiration that comes when you figure out how to fix your mistake. If it's all handed to you on silver plate, you'll really be in deep sh.. when Murphy does come to visit.

If this is your first time doing this stuff, just start with simple binding. Get that right, and then move on to binding plus purfling. You can also get multi-layer binding that takes care of purfling lines.

There's nothing like that first 10,000 hours of doing anything to put you where you need to be in the expertise arena, but you're not going to build like an expert by not trying things and being afraid of screwing up. Also, there is a massive amount of information on-line, in books, and in videos on all of this stuff. We shouldn't have to reinvent the wheel here, nor have to write about the process. It's all at your fingertips. Don't be lazy; do your homework. And don't think there are significantly better or cheaper ways to do any of these tasks than are presented in all the resources. Tens of thousands of hours have gone into figuring this stuff out, and in spite of at least one recent participant's disdain for the body of knowledge of lutherie, the collective knowledge is pretty good...and available.

Binding is one of those things that I think could be considered a pretty advanced technique and if you want to ensure good success, you really need the proper tools and equipment which can be costly and time consuming building the jigs and cradle. The nice thing about doing it with hand tools is that you can screw things up a lot slower! Even with the right tools, you can ruin what you've worked on for weeks in a minute (or less!) But, while it can be done in the hands of an expert, precision with a gramil is more difficult to achieve. If I were you (and it's just my suggestion) you might want to think about foregoing binding for a bit and concentrate on the sonic challenges you need to address.

Ahhh, the voice of reason! And I'm not being sarcastic one bit. Thanks, Chuck.

It's so easy to get caught up in appearances as a new builder and lose sight of what's really important...sound and playability.

I like that, too, Chuck. But when you're ready to sell instruments you'll find that it only works (maybe, I'm not sure yet) in the ukulele world. Most musicians claim to honor sound and playability above all else, but when it comes to parting with their money its just not true. The sound in their head isn't as important as the picture in their head.

I'd like to think that's not true but you might be right to a certain degree. But I think it really depends on your market John. I find the majority of my US market is interested primarily in sound while the Asian market favors looks. And in Hawaii, looks pretty much take a back seat amongst most players. If it doesn't sound good it's not going to get played. Like a pretty girl will grab your attention at first, if she's got nothing going on upstairs you won't find her company interesting for long.