Almost got it right

Timbuck

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It's the closest that I have achieved so far in my quest to re-produce a Martin Style "O" replica...Now I've got a real one to copy from i'm finaly getting the feel for it (just a few small detail's to sort out on the next attempt)...here are a few pic's of the real one and my copy.
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Close enough. In fact I prefer the Head/Neck transition on yours, the Martin being a bit weak and non descript. If you could get it to look more like Gull wings it would be even better but then I guess it wouldn't be a Martin.
 
Great job!! You just need to find some 100 year old mahogany wood and it'll be better than the original if not already!!
 
Don't go copying my stuff now, OK!

I'd not be able to tell the difference other than the faint odor of surfer sweat drifting into my shop from Steamer Lane two miles away. Unless you have a jig or fixture to duplicate that, too...

Much respect...
 
Don't go copying my stuff now, OK!

I'd not be able to tell the difference other than the faint odor of surfer sweat drifting into my shop from Steamer Lane two miles away. Unless you have a jig or fixture to duplicate that, too...

Much respect...


Does it mean that luthier's like their ukes imitated as a form a respect or does the luthier like their ukes imitated because they will never be as good as theirs. I'm curious on how luthiers think.
 
Does it mean that luthier's like their ukes imitated as a form a respect or does the luthier like their ukes imitated because they will never be as good as theirs. I'm curious on how luthiers think.

Uh yeah.....you can flatter me in other ways. But please don't copy my work. Honestly, although I admire the skill to do so, I've never quite seen the point of making reproduction instruments.
 
I'm pleased you are doing this Ken because it saves me doing it. I found a patent tuner for you. Will post it tomorrow. Personally I have tried other soprano configurations and Martin is, for me, the best... tho I know where you are coming from Chuck :)
 
Sven ...Why don't you go outside to your "Volvo"???..start the engine????...leave it ticking over for 15 min's or so.........and then suck on the exaust pipe.:D:D:D
Wot?! Volvo? I've got a British car... a Vauxhall. No way that heap of shite ticks for fifteen minutes. Must be those pesky UNC threaded screws.
 
Beautiful work. I had to look for a bit before I could figure out which was which!
 
Uh yeah.....you can flatter me in other ways. But please don't copy my work. Honestly, although I admire the skill to do so, I've never quite seen the point of making reproduction instruments.

I understand where you're coming from Chuck but the Martin soprano is sort of the "standard" many have come to know. So I can totally understand trying to emulate those characteristics. However, to me, it would make no sense at all to try and duplicate your work.
 
As a new builder I closely follow the Martin style, because I've played a couple of Martins.. nuff said probably. As I continue building they're becoming more my own. I've got a couple of wild designs drawn up but I'm waiting until I've got a bit more than the basics down before I do those.
 
I'm in the middle of a reproduction project...18 "influenced by" copies of Buddy Holly's 1943 Gibson J-45, but I took this as an opportunity to both respect what was great about those guitars AND change some things where I think we can do better now than they did 60 years ago. Things like carbon fiber reinforcement in the necks with a double acting double truss rod, a strip of carbon fiber on top of the upper transverse brace, and the use of epoxy to laminate the neck and glue on the fingerboard. However, we did go with hot hide glue for all the body joints, and the tops are Adirondack just like the originals.

I've been heavily informed by decades of doing repair work on vintage instruments. I've seen a lot of what fails, where the weak points are, etc. While I have great respect for the builders of the "Golden Era" of factory lutherie in America, I also think that we can learn to preserve the best of the tonal ideals, yet make instruments that will play better and hold up better over the next 60 to 100 years. One foot in the tradition and the other in the future is how I approach it.
 
I read with interest your having recently aquired a vintage Martin Style 0. I was curious about what changes, if any, you plan on incorporating on any future builds?

I don't own a vintage style 0, but i did notice on my 1920's Martin Style 2 the bridgeplate is extreamly thin (1-1.25mm maybe?), with an even thinner brace going from the lower soundhole transverse brace to the bridge area. I'm not sure if the later 50's Style 0 ukuleles changed in that area, so that's the reason for my question...........

My 1920's style 2 is feather light and loud, btw. Just kinda delicate looking and feeling. Surprisingly, it has held up over 90 years without a crack developing anywhere, dispite it's lightweight build.
 
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