LMI Glue

Moore Bettah Ukuleles

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So I ordered several bottles of LMI glue last week and as I always do I test every product that's new to me before I use it. Yesterday I did more than a half a dozen glue tests with this glue, clamped and unclamped and various kinds of joints. They all failed pretty badly when compared to Titebond redcap. When I tested some joined tops and backs they failed along the glue line with very little effort. "Failed miserably" is a term not too strong to use. This glue seems to work well for others so I just figured I'm using it wrong. I'm using it and preparing the wood in the exact manner I'd use Titebond. Can anyone share their experiences with me in using this stuff.
BTW, sadly, because of my off-grid situation HHG is really not an option for me as the electric elements used in keeping the glue warm pretty much fry the deep cycle batteries I use over time.
So what's the trick to using LMI Glue?
 
I found in warm/hot weather, the LMI stuff flashes over really quick. Had some similar issues with some braces popping off. I still use it where there are large surface
areas like linings and headstock veneers, as long as it's not a hot day. HHG or redcap almost everywhere else. I gladly take credit for my poor technique and or ignorance, I just prefer to use products that work for me. I do like how fast it dries in places I can use it.
 
Hey Chuck,
I just bought some of the LMI glue last month. I glued back strips and braces with it and had no issues. When I trimed the back strips for the braces, there was good adhesion. In fact, it dries rock hard and is a bi*ch to clean up the squeeze out after it dries. I bought it to try since they say on the website everyone is ordering it!! Did you give them a call?

Maybe I'll do some glue ups with the three glues I use this weekend. Then I'll do some retention test on the Instron tensile bench at the real job next monday...just to see
 
A guitar builder friend here had the same issues with it that I have. He tried it and went back to Titebond. That's what prompted me to do more than my usual testing on it. Head stock veneers pretty much pop off with a chisel. Temperatures in the build room are close to 80 with 45% RH. Maybe it's a Hawaii thing.......
I like the way it dries crystal hard. But I'm thinking that a glue should pretty much stick to things, yeah? Or am I asking too much?
 
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hmmm- weird. maybe its the hawaii climate. I seriously doubt a master luthier/wood worker like yourself would be doing something incorrect with it. maybe its a bad batch? between gordon, char and I, we have around 700 instruments with LMII glue. I find the joints to be hard and strong. The only failures seem to be my own, not the glues.
 
Our shops are pretty much the same temps and RH. I found I'm using a bit more than I would the red cap. I read on their site that it doesn’t penetrate as deeply as titebond so I’ve been making sure it has a chance to be clamped before it sets up. A little more squeeze out to clean up is my penance.

Arron, have you had any go bad yet? I’ve been wondering if you really can smell a difference.

Thanks,
Steve
 
It does go bad, sour, exactly as LMI describes. Which is why I date mine when I get it, and when I open it.

I keep mine in the fridge, in the shop. Chuck, maybe you should try it cold?

I joint tops and backs like Bob, Spanish style. Works better in my process than any other fancy jig. Other than that, I treat it just like Titebond, which I gave up over 3 years ago, after Rick recommended I try it.

Aaron
 
BTW, sadly, because of my off-grid situation HHG is really not an option for me as the electric elements used in keeping the glue warm pretty much fry the deep cycle batteries I use over time.
So what's the trick to using LMI Glue?

Chuck..there are several "Spirit lamp gluepots" available like this one.
gluepot.jpg
 
I think all PVA glues have a limited shelf life. If the stuff was bought recently it really is of concern. You would expect someone like LMI to have considerable turnover, so I doubt they have the stuff stuck on a shelf collecting dust. I doubt that it's a temperature or humidity thing either - unless it's been kept at the extremes. BTW I'm fairly certain I read that PVA glues should NOT be stored at very low temperatures.
Best ready to use Glue that I've come across is the Fish glue that Lee Valley and kremer pigmente sells. Strong, dries glass hard and long open time. Downside is the long clamping times.
 
I've also been using it for about 5 years (here in Hawaii) and love the stuff!!! never had any issues with it at all. I love the way it flashes and spreds and it dries clear.
Chuck, are you gluing outside or in a controlled environment?
 
I've also been using it for about 5 years (here in Hawaii) and love the stuff!!! never had any issues with it at all. I love the way it flashes and spreds and it dries clear.
Chuck, are you gluing outside or in a controlled environment?

Everything is done inside a climate controlled environment. As I mentioned, probably 78 degrees and 45% RH. The glue is new, smells fresh, and stored in the fridge. It's disturbing that another builder here with over 25 years of experience building guitars and ukes has had the same problem; different batch, different time. I'm starting to think it's more voodoo.
Ken, I like that spirit heater, hadn't thought of those. Thanks
 
I'm thinking bad batch or was frozen on the trip over. I only get a bottle in now and then when I have an LMI order (otherwise it's way to expensive when you add the shipping on its own), but have not had any issue with the times I've used it. Still much prefer HHG though. And Ken's idea for a heater is a cracker.
 
I now glue fretboard and neck joint with HHG..and up to now I like it ..all the rest is "Titebond" ..but i'm moving in a bit at a time....the last thing I'll try it on will be the "bridge" :)
 
I googled spirit lamps Ken but couldn't find any. A chocolate pot heater looks a good idea :) Chocolate one side, glue the other eh?
 
I googled spirit lamps Ken but couldn't find any. A chocolate pot heater looks a good idea :) Chocolate one side, glue the other eh?
Here's one http://www.fletcher-newman.co.uk/catalogue/glues_polishes/549.html
And here's another two http://willyfogg.com/search/herdim-spirit-lamp-glue-pot/?autoredirect=1 ...... http://www.paytons.com.au/product.php?id_product=26530 Herdim seems to be the main manufacturer...They supply them here as well http://www.howardcore.com/Catalog/tools/index.html
 
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Yes, we make sure to date the bottle, but I have never had a bottle go sour. I use them up long before then! My shop in Colorado is 30% humidity and 65 degrees on average. (its in my basement) I have noticed that when I work at the shop in Washington, the hotter lights and brighter sunlight at the setup bench change the "feel" of the glue. Still a mystery, Chuck!
 
Thanks to all who've replied. I've done more testing under different conditions and compared the results to Titebond. I tested a different bottle from another builder (who had the same experience that I did). When I tried to break the joints, the Titebond never broke along the glue line, the LMI glue always did, and with much less effort.
I'm sure the glue is fine, it just doesn't work for me. As far as the possibility of getting a bad batch I sure hope they don't expect me to test every batch I glue I get in. Until I learn how to use it I'll stick with Titebond. Next I'll be trying HHG.
 
I had the same experience. After break testing a few times I decided it was not a product I wanted to use and now only use it for gluing pearl slabs to thin wood strips before cutting on the bandsaw. I don't trust it. I live close to LMI and drive over to pick up supplies so it has nothing to do with heat or cold during shipping.
 
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