View Full Version : Resawing

01-10-2012, 07:20 PM
What is your method of re-sawing and what saw do you use? Looking at setting up my 14inch Jet to try it out.

01-10-2012, 07:39 PM
You might get some diverse opinions! I have a similar saw and have been successful with sawing stock up to about 5.5" using the stock fence, which is about 2.5" high. I've tried both the Timberwolf and Woodslicer blades and find that the 1/2" Woodslicer gives a slightly smoother cut. It is no big deal to get nice 1/8" slices, provided you take a few minutes to make sure that the saw is properly adjusted.

Michael Smith
01-10-2012, 10:34 PM
are you going to be resawing green or dry wood?

01-11-2012, 03:11 AM
I have a 17" grizzly band saw. to resaw dry wood I use a 3/4" woodslicer, and I am very pleased with the results I get with it, I resawed some Cuban mahogany and some monkey pod yesterday. As for wet wood, my opinion is that a 14" saw is not strong enough. I use a 1" woodmaster B, 2 tpi when resawing green wood, this does not leave a smooth cut, but it allows me to resaw the wood and get a straight cut in fresh cut green rosewood (sissoo) that I have locally

the widest wood I have resawn on my saw was 11" cherry, and I had no problems in that when the saw is set up properly.

01-11-2012, 09:05 AM
Set your saw up by making sure your table is square to the blade and that the blade is square to your fence. Blade is tracking correctly on the top wheel. Make sure all the stock that you are going to resaw is squared up nicely. You also need to set the drift on your fence. Run a piece of wood through your saw and notice which side of the kerf your blade favors. Right or left. You want that blade tracking right down the center of your kerf. Make sure your using the proper blade and proper tension. All these steps are important primarily because your resawing stock to such thin diminsions that there is not much margin for error. The other thing that would help a smaller saw with less power is by running your stock through your table saw to start the cut, top and bottom. And when you are pushing your stock through, go nice and slow, dont force it. Lubricating your blade will help also. Have fun.

01-11-2012, 06:10 PM
I have a 14" Jet that works just fine for stock up to a little less than 6" wide IF the blade is sharp and setup properly.

Moore Bettah Ukuleles
01-11-2012, 07:08 PM
Since I discovered Lenox carbide blades I won't use anything else on my 14" saw. Resawing 6" to 8" is effortless.

01-11-2012, 07:54 PM
I've got the Lenox carbide blade on my 21" Jet and it's a dream to use. Actually I never realised that a band saw could cut so cleanly until I used that blade.

If I want my finished stock at 1.8mm thick I set the cut up for 2.0 mm so I've got just a whisker to take off each face for clean up. Saves me hours of final dimensioning on the drum sander.

Liam Ryan
01-11-2012, 10:30 PM
OK Gents, I'm in the market for some bandsaw blades. Which Lenox carbides are we talking about and where do you get 'em?


There's a few different ones.

01-11-2012, 10:35 PM
OK Gents, I'm in the market for some bandsaw blades. Which Lenox carbides are we talking about and where do you get 'em?

http://www.lenoxtools.com/Pages/Category.aspx?category=CARBIDE There's a few different ones
Me too..I've located "Lenox" in the UK what do I ask for ????:)

Liam Ryan
01-11-2012, 10:55 PM
Ok I've had a look and the only one that comes close to having a usable width on a 14"er is the tri-master


Does that look right? Where to get em?

01-12-2012, 05:52 AM
In the US Industrial Blade (http://www.industrialblade.net/) is one of the largest Retailers. Whether they export is unknown. I use Woodcraft Bands (http://www.woodcraftbands.com/index.htm) (not Woodcraft...two different retailers) for regular and BiMetal blades. John at Woodcraft Bands can get Lennox blades but doesn't export. I've not had to replace the 1" Trimaster CT blade which came with my Band Saw. When I do I'll get John to make it up.

Moore Bettah Ukuleles
01-12-2012, 06:15 AM
This is what Iget and where I get it:

http://www.toolcenter.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Session_ID=6a86984d71b9430c5103b693b3 3174da&Screen=PROD&Store_Code=TC&Product_Code=89715-TRB8-2665

01-12-2012, 08:22 AM
This is an amazingly informative thread. Thank you everyone for the tips and advice, and thank you Chuck for that link. I will be ordering one soon!

01-12-2012, 09:45 AM
Thanks for the help, I will be getting a new blade and some roller guides asap. Thanks a bunch.

01-12-2012, 07:48 PM
Chuck, How many koa sets can you cut before the blade is to dull on your carbide blade? And do you send that type of blade in to be resharpened? Man the koa just kills my blades. I was cutting some milo sets and that stuff cuts like butter compared to the koa that I have. Im going to check into that blade you are refering to. In your opinion is it as good as Lagunas resaw king? Thanks

Michael Smith
01-12-2012, 09:28 PM
The resaw king is not a true carbide blade. They tip that blade with a carbide alloy. The Lenox CT blades last much longer than the Laguna resaw king blades i'm told.

01-14-2012, 06:30 AM
My bandsaw gets too much rough and ready work to stay well-tuned. I do almost all my resawing on a 10" tablesaw now. Cuts are clean, the blade never wanders, and a thin-kerf blade doesn't waste all that much wood. I've cut hundreds of 3 1/2"x1/4" mahogany, Spanish cedar, and basswood planks to be made into lining on the CNC, and I won't go back to the bandsaw.
Cutting from both sides with the table saw, I can resaw instrument sets up to 6" in two passes. I find that wider stock leaves a web of wood that self-guides through my band saw. The tablesaw is faster than a bandsaw, too. A dedicated resaw machine is a joy to use, but I doubt that I'll ever have one.