Resonator innerds...

Pete Howlett

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Don't know how to spell but i can make:

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This instrument has a birdseye maple veneered engineer/aero-grade 2.5mm precision ply front and back with 2.1mm birdseye maple sides. The area under the fingerboard is supported by a brace that rebates in to the top block and is butt jointed against the ply well with a supporting 'thickener'. By triangulating this area, locking the neck block into the well and front, it will prevent the front dipping which it did on the prototype... It also stiffens the whole body so the cone is left to do all the work - as it should be.

Here's what they look like with the binding:

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The one on the left is for someone who didn't like my star design. Limited edition run this year of a dozen.
 
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Very nice. How does the F hole affect the tone compared to the standard hole you use? If I recall correctly, didn't Dobro install an extension attached to the neck that ran through the well to the tailblock to keep it from buckling? I think its similar to the rod used in banjos. That's what I thought I'd try on one that I am going to build but I now wonder about how your approach will work. Is this the first time having used that system or do you have some experience with it? My son played a National resonator last week at a vintage music store and said he wanted one of those instead of an electric. Do you have any good sources for resonator cones and cover plates that you'd be willing to share?
Andrew
 
I like these more than the star design as well Pete. Very neat construction.

I've only ever held a Beltona Reso Uke and they are fairly light for a resonator. This style must come in on the portly side. Is it something to get accustomed to, or do you even notice it?
 
Beltona instruments are their 'own' and Steve is one of the original experts on these. The desing on the left is clearly 'National' and a pig to do. It's not that beefy. You don't need back braces with ply. Aero grade is made from 0.5mm veneer and hence highly engineered with no voids and real consistency. You have to make that body inert to get an authentic sound. I'll be having my coverplates made for me but will be useing DRC cones. You can get coverplates from Uke Republic... I bought a load of seconds quite cheaply but the cones are very heavy duty and sound like the instrument is stuffed with a sock.
 
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