Performax/Jet 10- 20 Design Problem

Timbuck

Timbuck

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Pete Sent me the drum support arm from his Jet 10-20 drum sander..He wanted me to see if I could fix it for him..The thread on the lifting screw had stripped causing the sander height adjustment to fail..It wasn't the thread on the steel leadscrew that had stripped but the female thread in the extruded aluminium arm ..I thought of a few ways of fixing it but couldn't decide which to go for..so this morning I went into the shed to take some measurments from off my Jet 10-20, I wound down the adjusting screw to the bottom setting, then started to wind it back up again :( but nothing happened the handle turned the screw shaft turned...then I realised what had happened :mad: THE HOWLETT CURSE had come to visit me..Mine had stripped as well...A quick search around the Web proved that this is a common fault with the 10-20 and I found about six owners in 5 minutes of searching who had the same problem...."Now I have two machines to fix"....I think that the problem is that the extruded aluminium material is not thick enough at 15mm or strong enough or suitable to lift the weight of the roller assembly and motor combined...In this thread I'll attempt to show you how I went about the fix.....

EDIT Due to Photobucket for removing all my pics and asking for a ransome to restore them ..I have made a video of the repair and it can be seen here https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RsmnY8dCODA
 
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Sven said:
Errr... now you've gone and made me pretty nervous. Are you gonna drill it out and fit a steel collar thingie with a sturdier thread?
Click to expand...

I'm gonna be more drastic than that..I'm thinking of chopping that bit right off :uhoh: Don't worry tho' Sven i've ordered enough material to fix your's as well when it fails on you later this year :D
 
I noticed that on Petes spindle that there was no sign of lubrication, so I thought at first that was what caused it...but mine is covered in grease from the first day I received it, and it still stripped just the same :confused:...anyway when i've done my mod it should fix it for good. (Fingers crossed):)
 
Moore Bettah Ukuleles said:
I wonder if this is a problem with the 16/32 as well. My screw has developed quite a bit of slop in it. Perhaps a sign of impending failure? Then again, I've never thought of lubricating it!
Click to expand...
Remember that the whole weight of the motor and roller assembly hang from that single point ...just the threads that is...sometimes when they go, is during sanding operation and the spinning drum and motor just drop onto the conveyor belt/workpiece and gouge out a drum size hollow bit.:eek:.."Chuck" the relacement part on the 16-32 dosn't look as expensive as the 10-20 it can be found here on page C http://www.ereplacementparts.com/jet-1632-plus-629004k-sander-parts-c-32652_32661_32864.html ..item 37 $64..90
 
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Timbuck said:
Remember that the whole weight of the motor and roller assembly hang from that single point ...just the threads that is...sometimes when they go, is during sanding operation and the spinning drum and motor just drop onto the conveyor belt/workpiece and gouge out a drum size hollow bit.:eek:.."Chuck" the relacement part on the 16-32 dosn't look as expensive as the 10-20 it can be found here on page C http://www.ereplacementparts.com/jet-1632-plus-629004k-sander-parts-c-32652_32661_32864.html ..item 37 $64..90
Click to expand...

Good Link! I've looked all over for replacement parts for the Performax without any luck. For me it's the "spiders" that keep wearing out. That's a valuable site to bookmark. Thank you Ken.

EDIT: I've just ordered the part (as well as some spare spiders) expecting impending disaster. Why would they use aluminum for this critical part?
 
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Wow, I just got mine a week ago, & have sanded exactly one fingerboard. I didn't find any mention of this problem in researching the purchase. Guess I'd better spend more time researching next time. I'll be eagerly following this thread.

Steve
 
Steve Combs said:
Wow, I just got mine a week ago, & have sanded exactly one fingerboard. I didn't find any mention of this problem in researching the purchase. Guess I'd better spend more time researching next time. I'll be eagerly following this thread.

Steve
Click to expand...

I've built a few hundred ukes with my 16/32 and use it every day. And I work it hard! Despite a couple of flaws, it's still the best small drum sander made IMO. I've been through a few spiders though, primarily because I let the motor couplers get loose. Although I don't do it I think it's a good idea to periodically tighten the fasteners and lube the moving parts. I can't speak for to 10/20 though.
 
As far as I see it should be possible to find a Helicoil thread insert in that size.
But what may or may not be a concern is how much material has to be removed in order to fit the thread insert.
From my recollection from previous repairs using Helicoil you should be able to fit an insert safely.
Provioded they make them in the correct size and pitch ofcourse..
 
Ken is on it folks asnd you can bet it will be an appriopriate fix... the problem is the combination of fine thread on a steel bar going into a heavy aluminium lump; recipe for disaster!
 
tjomball said:
As far as I see it should be possible to find a Helicoil thread insert in that size.
But what may or may not be a concern is how much material has to be removed in order to fit the thread insert.
From my recollection from previous repairs using Helicoil you should be able to fit an insert safely.
Provioded they make them in the correct size and pitch ofcourse..
Click to expand...
Most repairs to this problem on 10-20's have been done by Helicoil 9/16" UNF inserts..I have used Helicoil's many times on stripped threads like on car engine cylinder heads and manifolds etc: where permanent fixing is required.. but this is a leadscrew and nut arrangement, where a non friction surface is ideal (like on a lathe saddle nut).. Most Helicoil jobs offered by small engineering shops are done with standard steel inserts...this will cause more friction problems later on, co's steel on steel is a no no in this sort of job........ If you search around you can get "Phosphor bronze Helicoil inserts" that should do the job a bit better.. but really the length of the nut is one of the problems..for this job i'd like to see a nut length of 2D minimum made of bronze or pure iron, a Buttress or Acme thread would be a bonus, but thats out of the price range, co's it would involve making a new spindle.
 
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Looking at buying one and was wanting to know from the guys that have them, what is the better size to go with, 10-20 or the 16-32. Its only a couple hundred buck different. I just don't want to get the little one and then need a bigger one. I would only really use it for making instruments. Sorry if I am high jacking your thread, just felt this was a good place to ask. I have a large home made one but would like a more portable one to give me more room and floor space. Thanks in advance.
 
Some material arrived this morning so I made a start on the job.....I decided to fix my machine first and troubleshoot any problems that may occur before I send Petes parts back to him..You can most likely work out how i'm going to do this from these pic's....The main chunk of material is some 1 1/2" x 1" aluminium bar.
PICT0001-15.jpg

I cut this up into 3 lengths 1 for Pete 1 for me and a spare in case of cock-up's.
PICT0005-7.jpg

This a drawing I made of my proposed repair part.
PICT0009-7.jpg

Next Marking out for Machining
PICT0014-4.jpg

MORE TO FOLLOW
 
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Fixed it i think :) The next operation is on the lathe boring out an accurate 3/4" dia hole.
First centre drill
PICT0017-4.jpg

Next drilling
PICT0027-8.jpg

And finaly reaming out to size
PICT0030-2.jpg


MORE TO FOLLOW
 
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