Stewmac kit dorm room build

tospace2006 · Feb 17, 2012

Hey guys I'm new here and just started my stewmac tenor kit build about a week ago. I thought I had access to the university wood workshop but turns out that it's only for fine arts students, so I ended having to build it in my own dorm room with whatever tools I could find.

tospace2006 · Feb 17, 2012

Hopefully I can get more done since it's the weekend

Ken W · Feb 17, 2012

Looking good. That is one of the great things about starting with a kit; you don't need a ton of space or fancy tools with bells and whistles to make a nice instrument. Keep the pictures coming and keep up the good work.

tospace2006 · Feb 17, 2012

mhm but the shortage of tools might delay the build by quite a lot... What I don't look forward to is any of the router work. I have no access to one so my options are chip the wood down with a knife (as I don't even have chisels or planer) and sand it all down... wonder how long that'll take

Flyfish57 · Feb 17, 2012

What will require routing on the tenor kit? I made a couple of the soprano kits and didn't have to rout for anything.

JamieFromOntario · Feb 17, 2012

I just went through the only part of the kit that calls for a router: cleaning up the overhang of the top and back once they've been glued in place.

I don't have a router either so had to use a chisel and sand paper. It wasn't bad at all. But I do suggest you go and pick up a cheap chisel (i think mine was $5). It'll take an awful long time just with sand paper - plus you'll have dust all over your dorm room...and I'm guessing you don't have a vacuum.

Flyfish57 · Feb 17, 2012

You can make short work of the overhang if you get yourself a decent rasp (file)...That would be a good project for the front steps of your dorm.

tattwo · Feb 17, 2012

Flyfish57 said:
You can make short work of the overhang if you get yourself a decent rasp (file)...That would be a good project for the front steps of your dorm.

:agree: with the rasp

Flyfish57 · Feb 17, 2012

I would also glue both the top and back on before you remove the overhang. It’ll be sturdier. Is sturdier a real word?!

mr roper · Feb 17, 2012

If you are using the fixture from the instructions you'll glue the top, take it out of the fixture, trim the top, and put it back in the fixture top side down and then glue on the back.

Pete Beardsley · Feb 17, 2012

I did the same as James. I do have a router, but it just seemed a bit "aggressive" for the overhang. I just used a utility knife and some 80 grade abrasive paper, then down to 120 grade. Only took about half an hour to do each overhang and was less work than I anticipated.
I would also agree with Flyfish57. It looks as though you aren't using the mould so it would be worthwhile gluing up the top and the back before trimming the overhangs. It just makes the body a bit more rigid and less prone to twisting thereby reducing the risk of something nasty happening.
And lastly I agree most strongly with Ken W, keep those pics coming!

tospace2006 · Feb 17, 2012

Thanks for all the replies guys great ideas and ya I think i will invest in a nice chisel

tospace2006 · Feb 17, 2012

Small update of what I got done today so far

thistle3585 · Feb 17, 2012

Where are you located? Maybe there is a member near by that could help you out with the tools.

mr roper · Feb 17, 2012

Good job. You're on the right track.

tospace2006 · Feb 17, 2012

I'm at waterloo ontario in canada. This is my first time working with wood and the amount of time I have to wait for glue to dry is ridiculous! but I'm constantly having to stop myself from rushing the project and perhaps ruin it

tospace2006 · Feb 17, 2012

but more updates soon I hope

Moore Bettah Ukuleles · Feb 17, 2012

If you plan on investing in a Dremel tool, which is nice to have for various small tasks, it'll make quick work of safely removing the overhang when equipped with a 1/2" coarse sanding drum.

Chris_H · Feb 18, 2012

You might consider something like one of these woodworking knives in the link below, and a/some sanding blocks. One of the things about routers and wood, is that if something goes wrong, it is amazing how fast a perfectly good piece of something can be destroyed. Routers have a bit of a learning curve too. There are some other nice woodworking blades on the site I mentioned. These blades are very useful, amazing sharp. With a little patience you can safely trim and sand the edges flush. If you need, a little masking tape on the side can help protect from the sanding block. Be careful about rounding the edge before you want to. Aim for a square cut all the way around, then 'break' it carefully with 220 or 320 sandpaper.

http://www.japanwoodworker.com/product.asp?s=JapanWoodworker&pf_id=15.044&dept_id=13221

tospace2006 · Feb 18, 2012

More progress... the fan braces are so small that when I tried to clamp they kept moving and I didn't have a proper caul so had to improvise lol
and since I don't own chisel I had to shape the braces with just a knife and sandpaper worked pretty well actually

Stewmac kit dorm room build

Well-known member

Well-known member

Well-known member

Well-known member

Well-known member

Well-known member

Well-known member

Well-known member

Well-known member

Well-known member

Well-known member

Well-known member

Well-known member

Well-known member

Well-known member

Well-known member

Well-known member

Well-known member

Well-known member

Well-known member

Similar threads