epoxy choice

AlaskaTheo

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What type (brand, product) of epoxy do you guys use, for structural adhesive purposes? not finishing, I've found some of those threads, and that's a bridge I'll cross later. Hopefully with 'epoxy choice' for the title of the thread this will be easier to find.

There are so many choices. I see what Stewmac and LMI offer, and then there are lots of other brands and products all with good sales pitches from other sources.

At this point I'm mostly thinking about the epoxy for gluing in carbon fiber strips for the neck support and attaching the fretboard as well, based on the epoxy add in the LMI catalog.

I'm leaning twoards something that cures clear.

Generally, I have tried to avoid epoxy, I guess it's a natural aversion to it. I've only really used it a handfull of times and never gained enough perspective for choosing a good one to apply to an instrument. That and I seem to be learning a lot of lessons along this journey and dont want to learn this one the hard way:)

Thanks,
Theo.
 
For structural gluing, my choice is System 3 T-88. There is a material I use in my plinths that needs to be glued, and it is very picky about adhesives. I have done many break tests, and the T-88 is by far the strongest I have tested yet.

T-88 would be very good for carbon fiber.

I have not done many break tests with Cocobolo, but I was told that Epoxy is a poor choice in the long run for Oily woods. I use Titebond 3 for Cocobolo, after lightly sanding the glue surfaces and washing thoroughly with acetone. I work with Cocobolo a lot. Cocobolo and Vera are the most glue problematic woods I have worked with. Titebond 3 does OK. Would love to hear any opinions on other folks preferred choices of adhesive for joining Cocobolo plates.

Also, any other opinions on epoxies and oily woods?
 
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Smith formulated an epoxy specifically for oily tropical hardwoods.

When using epoxies as finish sealers, choose those with low or no amine blush. WEST is not great in that department. System 3 and Smith are.
 
Cant go wrong with 'System 3' .

Originally formulated for wood to wood, and wood to glass for the marine environment.
They have taken that beginning and now have other formulas that cover all the best uses for epoxies.
I have been using thier stuff since the early 1980's.

With System 3 epoxies, I have built;
* Sailboat centerboards (keel) with butcherblock type laminations of Port Orford Cedar and Mahogany, then glassed with 6 oz cloth. 22 years of intensive racing at the national level, not a hint of delamination or failure.
* 'Stitch n' Glue' Kayaks that I paddle off shore on the Oregon coast.
* RC Sailplanes up to 11' wingspans.
and more repairs of odds and ends than I can recall.

They have a great 'How to' book that is usually included in an order, and available to read online (last time I looked)
Mixing ratio is very forgiving.
Curing time is slower than many other brands, but in my experience in modeling and boats, the 5 and 30 minute stuff is for emergency repairs only.

For wood and wood to composites, I have not encountered a better product, or heard of one.
 
Smith formulated an epoxy specifically for oily tropical hardwoods.

When using epoxies as finish sealers, choose those with low or no amine blush. WEST is not great in that department. System 3 and Smith are.

As I'm always on the hunt for products to improve my work one thing is the glue that I use for CF and then pore filling. I was on WEST Systems website this morning and saw that they have a 207 specialty hardener that they say is formulated for very low amine blush problems. You ever try it Rick?
 
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