Ebony is easy to cut. It is so fine grained that it cuts almost like plastic. Very few woods are actually hard enough to take the teeth off of your blade. Likelyhood of internal tension is what scares me the most in resawing wood. I have seen a couple boards of Ebony with enough tension to break the last 1/8" or so of the cut, but Ebony is one of the friendliest cutting woods of all, IMO. The thing that is scary about cutting Ebony is that once it is cut, it is difficult to undo the cut, so measure carefully. For resawing, definitely the bandsaw is the tool of choice. I use a Woodmaster CT carbide tipped, 1.25" blade on a Minimax saw. If all you had was a 1/4" sharp blade that was properly set up, tension, guides, fence drift, I think this would have no problem cutting a fretboard for a uke in Ebony, though it will need to be surfaced. One of the biggest concerns with Ebony, is it's age, and moisture content. My shop is on the dry side, usually about 40-50%, so I usually cut boards like Ebony, Cocobolo, Snakewood, Bocote, immediately on entering the shop, then coat them in shellac, and put them in the back room which is a little colder than my main room. For Ebony, and some other woods, I check them daily, or whatever the feel is, watching for checks, and filling anything that opens up with thin superglue. Purchasing a quality, seasoned fingerboard is a good idea for this reason, as opposed to cutting it from a thick board. If you are resawing from 8/4 lumber, or similar, it is a good idea to have lots of patience with the wood to ensure a homogenous, moisture content at equilibrium with your shop.
, then you can end up with a bit of wobble in your cut at which point you loose a lot to sawdust, at which point you were probably better off to have used a table saw to begin with.
