Nut File

Paul December

Paul December

Well-known member
Joined
Jan 27, 2009
Messages
1,990
Reaction score
2
Location
Chicago-land
What does the edge of a nut file look like: V-shaped or Rounded?
My low G continues to creak when tightening so I assume its binding.
I wanted to see if I could pick up something similar locally at the hardware store.
 
Hello Paul December,
First question Paul, is it Low G or the 4th string on re-entrant gCEA. I have a micrometer and my Low G is .036 but and this is a biggy but..... If you have re-entrant g then the gauge will be around .025 or .027.
1931jim
PS: You type real fast the.ronin
 
Last edited:
1931jim said:
Hello Paul December,
First question Paul, is it Low G or the 4th string on re-entrant gCEA. I have a micrometer and my Low G is .036 but and this is a biggy but..... If you have re-entrant g then the gauge will be around .025 or .027.
1931jim
PS: You type real fast the.ronin
Click to expand...

Thanks, it is for Low G
 
the.ronin said:
I highly recommend these.
Click to expand...

+1 - well, sorta - I prefer these from the same source.

If you get the .026 / .032 file you'll have the perfect tool for anything except maybe a baritone or an unwound low-G.

The bottom of a nut file should be rounded, but the sides should be smooth so the slot doesn't get wider, just deeper, when you file.

You absolutely do not want a triangular shape. Trianglular notches will make tuning a nightmare because they tend to "grip" the string as it is tensioned. They also can result in problems if you change to strings with a slightly different gage (or softer nylon strings after using fluorocarbon, etc) because the string height changes with the string gage.

When you file the notch you want to keep the slot very straight (i.e. don't rock the file and end up rounding the bottom of the slot). You also want to slant it down from the fret side to the tuner side so the string breaks cleanly over the bottom of the slot right at the fret-side edge of the nut.

John
 
Before ya file, try powder graphite. That works wonders for binding. Believe it or not, it can also help the tuners keep it in tune. I have corrected erratic tuning issues even in my Gibson guitars by simply adding graphite to the nuts. You can buy powder graphite almost anywhere, or you can also take an x-acto knife and shave a regular #2 pencil lead into the slots (as most know, pencil lead is actually graphite.)
If that doesn't fix the problem, then move on to filing and dressing the nut per OldPhart's direction.
 
Last edited:
Tudorp said:
Before ya file, try powder graphite. That works wonders for binding. Believe it or not, it can also help the tuners keep it in tune. I have corrected erratic tuning issues even in my Gibson guitars by simply adding graphite to the nuts. You can buy powder graphite almost anywhere, or you can also take an x-acto knife and shave a regular #2 pencil lead into the slots (as most know, pencil lead is actually graphite.)
If that doesn't fix the problem, then move on to filing and dressing the nut per OldPhart's direction.
Click to expand...

Yep, graphite is great stuff. You don't even have to shave the pencil lead. For years I've kept a .05mm (or maybe .03mm, I'd have to pull it out and check and I'm too lazy) mechanical pencil with my string changing kit. Each time I change the strings on a guitar I just "scribble" in the nut slots with the pencil before putting the new strings on.

I've never had strings bind with ukes, so far, but I suspect that's because I've never used wound strings until very recently; it is usually the wound guitar strings that stick and pop.

John
 
benjoeuke said:
I use something like these, hole files or torch tip cleaners:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0017Z04Q2
Click to expand...
I've got those, too, fro, ebay.co.uk sold as "Nut files?" Look on there for a good description and explanation. They're VERY cheap, the profile is rounded, not V shaped, so the string sits nicely in there. I'd recommend, for what it's worth. Just a few dollars.
 
You know us old guys Phart. We like to keep our nuts good and lubed. Binding at our age can be painful and problematic. Just sayin..

OldePhart said:
Yep, graphite is great stuff. You don't even have to shave the pencil lead. For years I've kept a .05mm (or maybe .03mm, I'd have to pull it out and check and I'm too lazy) mechanical pencil with my string changing kit. Each time I change the strings on a guitar I just "scribble" in the nut slots with the pencil before putting the new strings on.

I've never had strings bind with ukes, so far, but I suspect that's because I've never used wound strings until very recently; it is usually the wound guitar strings that stick and pop.

John
Click to expand...
 
ya, I'm not the first person to use hole files for slotting nuts, I got the idea from an uku player about 10 years ago :)
 
Tudorp said:
Before ya file, try powder graphite. That works wonders for binding. Believe it or not, it can also help the tuners keep it in tune. I have corrected erratic tuning issues even in my Gibson guitars by simply adding graphite to the nuts. You can buy powder graphite almost anywhere, or you can also take an x-acto knife and shave a regular #2 pencil lead into the slots (as most know, pencil lead is actually graphite.)
If that doesn't fix the problem, then move on to filing and dressing the nut per OldPhart's direction.
Click to expand...
Thanks, I'd prefer an easy fix like that :)
 
There is a fellow sells his nut files thriough eBay. They are rounded bottom and look more like a feeler gauge than a file . The price is far better than StuMac's price.. Torch tip files are pretty coarse for wanting to do fine work. Has anyone used a diamond wheel in a Dremel type tool on a set of point feeler gauges to make up their own set?
 
TheCraftedCow said:
There is a fellow sells his nut files thriough eBay. They are rounded bottom and look more like a feeler gauge than a file . The price is far better than StuMac's price.. Torch tip files are pretty coarse for wanting to do fine work. Has anyone used a diamond wheel in a Dremel type tool on a set of point feeler gauges to make up their own set?
Click to expand...

You don't want any kind of wheel. You want the bottom of the slot to be flat and slanted slightly down to the tuner side. It's absolutely critical that the string break cleanly at the fret side of the nut and that it not fibrate or "squirm" in the slot.

John
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

C
New Nut File Design by Nutfiles.com
Replies
2
Views
264
Codeman
C
snowdenn
Low G Nut Slot File
Replies
14
Views
1K
snowdenn
snowdenn
U
Nut file recommendation?
Replies
2
Views
781
ukeanixi
U
C
To lower the nut or file the slots down ...
2
Replies
32
Views
4K
Ground Loop
G
zdiver7
Nut slotting file suggestions?
Replies
16
Views
7K
spookefoote
spookefoote
Top Bottom