Question for Chuck Moore and anyone else who has an opinion

Chuck,

I have decided to follow your lead and go with a Fuji 4 Gold turbine system. I am getting the gravity feed gun and I wanted to know which tip you use. I am either going to spray nitro or a waterborne. I know that there is a big difference but I wanted to know whether you would recommend a 3# (1 mm) tip or #4 tip for use with the nitro. The gun comes with a #4 tip but some suppliers will switch it out for a #3. I appreciate all the comments from the other builders about using a compressor rather than a turbine system but our compressor would not work and we have limited space in the shop so I decided to go with a turbine system.

Also I was looking at your website and your production pictures. I am also building with koa front, back, and sides. I noticed that you do not mask the areas on the body where the bridge, fretboard, and neck attach. How do you get good adhesion when you glue up the neck and bridge? I am using a bold on system for the neck but I was planning on masking the soundboard in the areas I just mentioned before I pore fill and leaving them masked until the finish is prayed. I would rather not but it seemed like the only way to get the glue to bond when it was time to glue up the neck after finishing. Any thoughts?

Thank you,
Colin

Can't comment on Fuji system....

As for masking - I have done both scraping and masking. Bob Gleason method of using a heated spatula/chisel to soften and release the finish is a good method. However, now I have found Cardinal lacquer which does not get overly brittle quickly I mask off using parcel tape. It is thin so the lacquer won't build up a heavy miniscus edge.

You'll have to experiment. Start out with the smallest tip you can. I use the blue one (don't know the size off hand). Your mix is critical though, perhaps more important than tip size. The kind of lacquer you use will also change things. I don't know enough about waterborne to offer advice. You just need to get out a bunch of test panels and start practicing.
I use a router to remove the lacquer before attaching parts. (Pete: Gleason has followed my lead on this and has since abandoned the hot knife.) I do not like to tape off because of the slight ridge you encounter while sanding and buffing.

#3 should work fine for nitro and waterborne. Waterborne needs to go over an epoxy grain filler, or shellac, or something that will let the color of the wood come through. If the lacquer does not flow well straight out of the container, thin it just a little. Remember to strain it always just in case. Same with waterborne.

Master turned pupil I'm really missing out now ain't I?

How is a router used to remove lacquer?

Everyone thanks so much for the help. I always fell like I am running around in the dark since I have not done many of these things before and you can only find so many youtube videos to watch. On Fuji's website It looks like the blue tip is the #3. I will make sure to do some practice panels so that I can get it right. When you use the router to take off the lacquer how do you control it. Do you use a template? Is it the same set up that you use for your inlay just set up to the depth of the finish? The ridge sounds like a problem but will have to balance dealing with the ridge or controlling the router/scraping/hot knifing the areas back to bare wood. I am planning on using epoxy filler. I am guessing that either I mask before filler and finish and if I don't mask the filler is routed off along with the finish before gluing.

If you can get a 2 qt. pressure pot and a 1/4" I.D. fluid hose, it will take away some of the awkward learning curve of spraying with a cup attached.

Lacquer removal with a router............

I started using this technique a few years ago and it seems to be the technique du jour, at least around here. I use it for the bridge and neck area on the body. It is the bee's knees.

The tools I use are Dremel tool in a Stew mac router base. 1/8" carbide spiral downcut bit (see Kekani). Tape.

Mask the bridge (or other) area with Scotch GREEN tape only! (DO NOT use blue tape, the green is lacquer safe) Position bridge where you want it, trace outline with pencil, remove bridge, cut 1/16" on the inside of the line with #11 Exacto blade, remove interior mask.
Adjust your bit to remove the thickness of the lacquer, typically between 3 and 5 mils. I do it free hand, it takes about a minute. Don't set your bit too deep, just enough to remove the lacquer. Practice first!
As with most advanced techniques, this one requires some experience and skill! When you do it the first time your butt will be clenched and your tongue will be sticking out toward the sky. After the first one the rest are a piece of cake. Practice first!

And please, I do not want any emails about how you've screwed up your uke and want me to repair it for you. Practice first!

I don't mask off for bridge either. I use to, but as Chuck said, you get a ridge that is difficult to deal with. I tried the router method once but it scares me too much so I just scrape the lacquer off. Doesn't take long and the less noise from routers the happier I am.

Allen said:

I don't mask off for bridge either. I use to, but as Chuck said, you get a ridge that is difficult to deal with. I tried the router method once but it scares me too much so I just scrape the lacquer off. Doesn't take long and the less noise from routers the happier I am.

Click to expand...

Yes, one of the fastest ways to ruin your day is to attack you newly polished uke with a router!
As with EVERYTHING else, you need to find techniques that are comfortable for you to work with.

Thanks for that tip... it sounds the bee's knees....

If you use parcel tape you don't get a big ridge and... I sand quite agressively around the tape.

First saw that router thing in 1994 at Bill Collings factory. Not for me I'm afraid

Thanks. I will practice first on scrap and then practice again. And don't worry no emails from me about my mistakes. I make plenty, but the only one I try to blame for my mistakes is myself.

I have a Dotco pencil grinder on a base I made very similar to the Stew Mac base. With the 1/8" downcut spiral, set much deeper than what it takes to remove lacquer, it is an extremely precision tool, very easy to control. At a depth of what it takes to remove lacquer with a little care in the taping, and just handling a hard tool above a finish, should be no problems.

I am not sure if all pencil grinders are created equal, kinda don't think so, other air tools are not. Anyone else use one of the inexpensive pencil grinders over a peroid of time?

I use a disc sander to sharpen my pencils. No need for a pencil grinder.

When I have the ridge from the masking tape, I knock it back with a brand new razor blade before I glue the bridge on. You just have to be careful not to scratch anywhere the bridge doesn't cover. I like it better than scraping.

Chuck, your idea sounds great!