Does ebony binding show up on ebony fretboard?

Eyeguy

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Okay, so I'm planning a tenor Mya-Moe build - either the Tradition with wood upgrade or the Classic. Either way I pretty much know I am going to opt for mango - probably chocolate heart - and go with ebony for the body binding. Question: given the fretboard is already ebony, is there much point in opting for ebony as the fretboard binding as well? If I go the Tradition route I can save $50 by not having a fretboard binding at all. I'm thinking it won't show up anyway, or will it? What I don't want is a different color binding on the fretboard that is going to stick out like a sore thumb in comparison to the ebony body binding or simply against the ebony fretboard itself. Thoughts?
 
The binding will give you a nicer look and feel as the fret tangs will trimmed and covered by the binding.
You might not see the binding seams with ebony binding on ebony fretboard.
 
Like Doc_J said.....it will cover the exposed fret ends. I personally prefer binding on all my fingerboards.
For a classy look, builders will often put a maple purfle between the ebony binding and the ebony fingerboard. I'm not sure if Mya-Moe offers this or not.
 
Here's an example of what ebony binding would look like:

aaa.jpg
 
I personally would get the binding. You won't see it from the top, but it shows off the fine work of your luthier, at least to those who know..
 
GOrdon's video was helpful. Q: if one were to need to need to repair/replace a fret, would the fret binding make it more difficult, extra steps, need t remove and replace or potential damage to the binding? After seeing Gordon's video, my gut tells me yes.

I looked at my ukes, and some do not have fret binding (thus I can see the "t" from fret tang), and you know what--they still look great and feel flush and smooth. So, for me, aside from saving the small price, if it was harder to get at and fix a fret should it be necessary someday (and sometimes frets can pop up, pop out, need repair), I'd skip the binding.

Good question, OP>
 
I ordered a uke from MM and found them to be very knowledgeable and helpful. Both Char and Gordon listen carefully before responding. In the end I went with all of their suggestions including the ebony binding. After all it's a Mya-Moe and they're the experts. Good luck with your uke.
 
If you've watched the video, one thing I would emphasise is that with a Mya-Moe, apparently the feel doesn't change (which it DOES on some ukuleles). The construction of the neck makes the binding totally aesthetic.
 
GOrdon's video was helpful. Q: if one were to need to need to repair/replace a fret, would the fret binding make it more difficult, extra steps, need t remove and replace or potential damage to the binding? After seeing Gordon's video, my gut tells me yes.

I looked at my ukes, and some do not have fret binding (thus I can see the "t" from fret tang), and you know what--they still look great and feel flush and smooth. So, for me, aside from saving the small price, if it was harder to get at and fix a fret should it be necessary someday (and sometimes frets can pop up, pop out, need repair), I'd skip the binding.


Good question, OP>

Replacing frets on a bound fingerboard is more costly then an unbound board, its more work. Ebony boards are the worse because the frets slots tend to chip up as a fret is removed. The old school method is just to pound or press them in and as the ebony ages and gets brittle, the fret slot will chip up when a fret is replaced. Most luthiers today grind some of the barb off the fret tang and add a little glue to the tang, making the fretting easler and the removal easier down the road, without chipping up the fret slot.
 
Here's an example of what ebony binding would look like:

View attachment 37012

:drool: Show-off...............now that is a great example of what I was talking about in another disussion....."Classy Bling." That is one, classy, gorgeous uke!!!!
 
Replacing frets on a bound fingerboard is more costly then an unbound board, its more work. Ebony boards are the worse because the frets slots tend to chip up as a fret is removed. The old school method is just to pound or press them in and as the ebony ages and gets brittle, the fret slot will chip up when a fret is replaced. Most luthiers today grind some of the barb off the fret tang and add a little glue to the tang, making the fretting easler and the removal easier down the road, without chipping up the fret slot.

thanks, bbu. thats enough for me to skip the binding. i'm looking at my most expensive personal uke, a koa kiwaya, no fret binding.
 
I like binded fretboards...feels much better. not worried about chipping as you should treat the fretboard with oil or some other conditioner.
 
GOrdon's video was helpful. Q: if one were to need to need to repair/replace a fret, would the fret binding make it more difficult, extra steps, need t remove and replace or potential damage to the binding? After seeing Gordon's video, my gut tells me yes.

Fretboard binding is not an issue when refreting, a little more work, but not an issue. Any good luthier or tech can refret a bound fretboard, ebony included, with no major problems. If a tech ever tells you otherwise, then take it to another tech or luthier because you do not want that guy touching your instrument.
 
I myself like fretboard edging/ binding..cleans up the look and matches the body binding....I would get it contrasting colors from the body and neck though so it stands out more..
you are paying for it and want to see it too.....
 
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