How to shape bone saddle blank to fit in bridge slot?

uke2020

Active member
Joined
Mar 10, 2012
Messages
39
Reaction score
0
Location
NJ, USA
Hi, got some Stew-Mac cow bone blanks but they're quite large. What's the best tool/technique to shape them to fit the bridge slot (especially width-wise). I have some 120 and 300 grit sandpaper and a coping saw, but would a metal file be better for the width adjustment? Also, heard bone dust is dangerous -- does it require any special handling? Thanks.
 
I've only done this twice, but I use sandpaper on a sheet of glass. Make sure to rotate the way you hold it often and I like to sand in a figure 8 to keep it flat.
 
A coping saw is fine to cut it to length. Just leave a hair extra to clean up the edges with sand paper.
Ditto what Gyosh said on thinning with sand paper. You'll probably want finer grit than 300 grit for the final sanding. I do 600 grit to get a nice satin finish on it. I don't think bone dust is dangerous....but dust can cause allergies in different people. A paper mask should be fine if you're worried.
Just be careful thinning the blank. Those edges will get razor sharp!! Blood stains don't look good on a saddle so be sure to break the sharp edges
 
Glad I saved the cutoffs from my granite countertops. Looks like I'll finally be using them for something.
 
The last bone saddle I made I glued the blank to a tongue depressor (in the middle) and rough shaped it on a 2" diameter drum sander in my drill press. The tongue depressor kept my fingers away from the drum. It went a lot faster than the two I shaped by hand. When I was finished I threw it in a tall glass of water and waited for the glue to release. Oh, yeah, use water soluble glue and don't let it harden over night, I think I let mine set up for 4 hours or so.

It came off the tongue depressor with some sharp edges, as noted above. Hand sanding took them off.
 
I use a piece of 80 grit stuck to my tablesaw table to get the 2 wide sides flat, parallel and the correct width. Then shape the bottom flat, top radius profile and string break w/a 1X30 belt sander. Then polish with Micro Mesh. Most of the dust gets collected by a shopvac w/HEPA filter. I also wear a mask with 1 drop of Oil of Wintergreen inside because I can't stand the smell of the bone burning. Pretty sure you don't want to be inhaling the dust.
 
An adjustable wrench can be used for a thickness gauge/micrometer if you dont have anything better.
 
Yes, bone dust is dangerous.

The very dead, very processed, very non-human bits you're typically using for luthier work are probably less risky (less risk of viruses and such being transmitted, a real problem when dealing with fresh bone especially human (surgery, biopsies, etc)). But even completely sterile bone dust is toxic.

Wear a respirator, collect the dust with a vacuum (ideally with a HEPA filter), treat it as toxic waste.
 
Top Bottom