Lining question

Hello all,

I am going to attempt to make my first scratch built ukulele soon. I got some orphaned sides and backs from RCTonewoods. I need to thin it out a bit with a planer and start cutting it down to size. It looks like I can get 4 sets of sides and three backs or tops out of the wood I got. Not to shabby I guess. I think I'll look forward to using some sets already cut and thinned to ukulele size but this is still a good learning experience for me.

Anyway, I've been doing some research, looking at a lot of ukuleles online and in hand and trying to get an idea of how it is done. I just purchased a new Bruko No. 6 and noticed it doesn't have any linings. My old birch Regal ukuleles don't have linings either. The Bruko does have some pretty tall braces that meet the sides but no lining. I know linings give a larger surface area to glue the tops and backs to and make the rims more stable/solid, but with many of the modern glues we have it is my understanding the glued joint is often stronger than the wood itself (maybe that's just glue hype?). So my (maybe really dumb) question is do you need lining inside of your ukulele? Or is it a case by case like so much of the luthier art? For a first build I want to keep it Spartan and eliminate as many steps as possible (no binding or inlay or anything fancy like that and if I can skip lining that would be cool, too). I will be attempting a soprano so maybe cube-square law applies here? a soprano might be able to survive without lining but a baritone would fail!?

Repairing a few ukuleles, building a Grizzly kit and a cigarbox uke and now embarking on scratch built journey has really given me a new appreciation for ukuleles and guitars!

Thanks for your thoughts and input,
Chris

I wouldn't build without linings. Maybe a soprano could get away without linings...if you can get a really good joint between the sides and top/back. I know in my first ukes I was glad to have linings and binding to hide some ugliness around the side joints. I've also had my flush trim router bits tear out some of the top. Those got fixed with bindings too.
Adding linings is pretty easy, especially if you use kerfed. Cheap insurance for later if you want to add decoration (hide a screw up)

That's a good point. My first couple of builds I won't expect to be much, really just to try out side bending, gluing, neck alignment, cutting fretboards, etc. But who knows maybe I'll want to keep my first few? I'm sure I'll have plenty of screw-ups!

I generally make the kerfed linings for my sopranos by buying a length of beading from a hardware store and then kerfing it myself. Here is the high-tec kerfing attachment:



I'm sawing on a piece of MDF, using the clamped block to rest the beading against. The masking tape layers stop the saw cutting all the way through. Some experimentation is needed, but I'd say around 6 layers is usually right.

You need around 48 inches of kerfed lining for top and bottom of a soprano, which is probably 15-20 mins work. I just do 5 mins every now and then so it doesn't get too tedious. Of course, if I were turning out dozens of ukes I'd buy my linings, but on a production schedule of half a dozen a year this isn't too tedious.

The extra width is very helpful in getting a decent glue join, especially on your first few.

Now I'll often use the offcuts from the over-width sides as solid linings, which is much less effort. Gives less gluing surface, but I'm better at gluing than I was.

I like that set up. I might give it a go. So it seems like you *CAN* make a ukulele without lining but maybe not the best of plans (at least not for a beginner or if you want it to last). I think I need to get one of those nice looking Japanese saws!

I have a KoAloha Tenor that was sent to the factory recently for repair of the top to side glue joint. It has no linings. I was surprised a higher-end K branded ukulele didn't have linings, I've heard that is normal for a KoAloha.

Modern glues are strong - 2 years agp Fone Woodworking conducted tests which prove it. However, for ukulele, you need linings. if you are hand bending why not try solid linings which I use when I don't bind... makes for loud ukulele

Cutting kerfed linings by hand is not a skill that has high value. Bending wood is, to that end I suggest you consider adding solid bindings to your build. Make them 5/16" deep by 3/32" thick and bend them to shape. Bending linings by hand is very good practice and they are then very easy to install. I use Alaska yellow cedar or aromatic cedar which makes the interior of the ukulele smell really nice. Just my thoughts.

Brad

What Brad said..

I use solid lining in all my builds so far. I like it, since it is not hard to bend the lining and it is lighter than the kerfed lining.. You can also use the left over sides to made the lining too. Then you will have a matching set of lining.

Hobo: I was watching factory tours earlier and it looked like KoAloha didn't use lining either, but I didn't know if they just didn't show the step of adding lining. I guess they don't use them. Interesting.

Mr. Howlett: How thick are the solid linings you use?

Who would have thought something as simple as linings could be some complex and facinating?!? Thaks everyone!

Thanks for the replies Bradford and UkeforJC. I see your point about wood bending. Any practice I can get is good! I think matching lining to the sides sounds nice too.

UkeforJC said:

You can also use the left over sides to made the lining too. Then you will have a matching set of lining.

Click to expand...

This is how I've been lining my last few ukes. I bend the sides a bit wider than I need then slice two lining-size pieces off of each side after it is bent. This seems risky, but I cut the bent sides on my bandsaw with a fence and haven't had a serious split out yet. That way the linings are bent and match the sides.

2.2mm...

Ken W said:

This is how I've been lining my last few ukes. I bend the sides a bit wider than I need then slice two lining-size pieces off of each side after it is bent. This seems risky, but I cut the bent sides on my bandsaw with a fence and haven't had a serious split out yet. That way the linings are bent and match the sides.

Click to expand...

I haven't got a bandsaw.

But you have balls. Great pic, prof.

Use a cutting guage

I am in agreement with Pete, solid linings make better sounding ukes. I have gone to making all my uke solid linings from maple or harder wood. I glue two linings strips together after they are bent to get double the stiffness and strength. The end result is a much stiffer set of sides resulting better sound transmission. This is the best method I have found so far. It is a lot more work.

Another method with the solid linings is to make them deep. Laminating is a great method but not for me...

Since we're on the topic of linings, do you guys notch the linings to accommodate the bracing or thin the braces to go under the lining?

hmgberg said:

Since we're on the topic of linings, do you guys notch the linings to accommodate the bracing or thin the braces to go under the lining?

Click to expand...

I only notch the linings for the upper and lower transverse braces. The fan struts do not get tucked as they do not reach the linings.