Which strings shall I get?

This isn't so much a problem as it is a challenge. I don't have the uke yet, but I see all the time that a better quality ukulele should not have Aquila strings on. That's what I always use on my Kala, a pretty good uke, but what do you all recommend for a solid koa Willie Wixom concert uke?

I like Worth clears, Fremont blackline or Martin 6 somethings.
When do you get your Willie Wixom concert? I bought the mango long neck soprano Willie has on his website. He should be mailing it in a few days. I am so excited. I have trouble waiting so I had to buy the ready made long neck soprano. I tried to resist. I kept waiting for someone to buy it. I think it was meant for me.

Aloha Nickie,
Martin 600 Flouros or Koolau Alohis would be my best guess. Had Hilos on my used Maui Music Concert which sounded okay but switched to Martin 600s. Ended up with a uke that sings much better than before. On a trip to Honolulu, visited MGM at HMS and bought some Alohis for my Concerts and my Tenors. Decided to try them on my Maui Music. Couldn't believe the difference it made....more balance and well rounded, beautiful voice it produced.
My Wixom is being built as we type. It's a Tenor so I'm ordering a set of Southcoast G-650s Flatwounds for it. Will probably have it mailed directly to Willie.
I know you'll love your Wixom as much as I will mine. Ordering a Concert next, it's being planned in my head right now as far as wood choices and appointments. Probably resembling my Tenor in it's own way.
Good luck in your string choice...........................BO.........................

Nickie said:

. . . but what do you all recommend for a solid koa Willie Wixom concert uke?

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Solid koa? That's like saying Shrimp Scampi. Sorry, had to comment.

Anyway, one of the things that irritate me post sale is when a customer comes and tells me ,"My `ukulele doesn't sound (or play) right when I installed XXXX strings."

"Umm, that's because I set the instrument up for the set that was on it, which you agreed to, and asked me for in the first place." I always discuss strings sets with the build, so I don't get irritated.

I'd ask the builder. Otherwise, buy something off the rack and go for it (meaning, change strings).

Aaron

@Kekani,
Would you mind explaining to me how you set up ukes for a certain set of strings? And what would the uke sound like with a string change as most of us do anyway to FIND what seems to be the perfect match for it?
I may have been around ukes most of my life but have just started learning about the ins and outs of uke building, effects of woods and/or wood combinations and the science of strings and their effects on sound.
So please help out this old man and explain. The more I know, the better my next uke will be.
Mahalo,.................................BO............................

Hi, Nickie:
I really like the Worth CT-LG (Clear Low-G) on my Wixom koa tenor. I also liked the Martins (another clear fluoro string set), which are High-G. Both are mellow and balanced to my ear. I tried Koolau Alohi with the wound Low-G and found that wound string too jarring. I would bet the all-plain Alohi High-G would be quite nice.
Bob

I wouldn't recommend to you, rather I would recommend you try some and experiment - trust your own ears. A recommendation is only the view of the person who gave the recommendation, and your uke (even if Identical) your styles and your ears will differ. There is no right or wrong string.

See http://www.gotaukulele.com/2012/05/beginners-ukulele-string-advice.html

Different ukes seem to prefer different strings, and that's not coming close to accounting for the player.

I've probably tried eight different brands/styles of strings on my personal Compass Rose uke, and it took me about five years to come to what I/it likes best...the top four strings from a Savarez "Red Label" set with nylon on nylon wound C, E, and A strings. My next fave would probably be genuine gut strings from Aquila, but they didn't last long. They did have tremendous character, but they start shredding pretty quickly at the fret positions.

What I've learned from the 300 or so Compass Rose ukes we've built is that there are a number of brands and styles that can sound good; it's not a matter of "this brand sucks" or "this brand rules". It's what's right for your particular uke; and unfortunately, the search for the right strings can take a while.

808boy said:

@Kekani,
Would you mind explaining to me how you set up ukes for a certain set of strings? And what would the uke sound like with a string change as most of us do anyway to FIND what seems to be the perfect match for it?
I may have been around ukes most of my life but have just started learning about the ins and outs of uke building, effects of woods and/or wood combinations and the science of strings and their effects on sound.
So please help out this old man and explain. The more I know, the better my next uke will be.
Mahalo,.................................BO............................

Click to expand...

Actually, Rick said it well, just read his post.

For me, because I know how each instrument is built, I can "tell" which ones I'm going to put a normal tension set on, and which ones I'm going to put a higher tension set on. There are so many variables, but I've relegated myself to installing Savarez Alliance and D'Addario Pro Arte Classical strings. Of course, the D'Addario Pro Artes are now repackaged (to the confusion of MANY noobs) into `ukulele strings.

Anyway, I could say I cut the nuts slightly different, but because both brands have very similar gauges, and I use the same tools to slot my nut, that kind of statement from me would be BS. I will say they are thicker (on average) than most `ukulele strings I've used in the past.

I will say I set the action different across the strings sets, by brand and by tension. Of course, because of the back angle I put in the saddle (trick devised by Rick), once I set the compensation, I can set the action and not worry about the scale length (another topic, already discussed).

If someone were to take one of my instruments that had a D'Addario T46 treble set with a J4804 low g, then swap it out with say a Worth low g set, a number of things would happen. First, the nut slots would be too big. I could stop right here and that should be enough explanation. Of course the action would now be too low and the strings would probably buzz. The instrument would also lose some of its projection, sustain and overall tonality. Ask me how I know this.

Of course, that is but one example of MANY possibilities. Some players (or should I say most players) don't understand that a custom instrument is an entirely different animal (or tree) from a rack instrument. Notice Rick said his "personal" Compass Rose. Production companies need to find strings that do well across the spectrum of their offerings, its just simple math and TOE. Which is why I suggested to the OP to ask the builder (see how I went through all of this just to come back around to my first statement?), since that person is identified. If this topic was centered around a "generic" rack build, my suggestion would've been different (matter of fact, it was).

Hope this helps. Just my opinion, of course.

Aaron