How thick for sitka tenor top?

JamieFromOntario

JamieFromOntario

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I'm getting ready to start my second, serious, kit build. I'll be using a tenor stewmac kit but am planning to swap out the mahogany top for some nice sitka spruce I picked up.

From what I've seen on the 'net, it looks like a thickness of around 2-2.5mm is optimal.

Does that sound about right?


Also, I have another top that's engelmann spruce that i'll use for my next next build; Should it be thicker/thinner/same as the sitka?


thanks
 
there's a couple of forum topics that touched on this particular subject just recently. theres some ballpark figures for the thickness if youre not sure what tonal quality your after.look it up.
JamieFromOntario said:
I'm getting ready to start my second, serious, kit build. I'll be using a tenor stewmac kit but am planning to swap out the mahogany top for some nice sitka spruce I picked up.

From what I've seen on the 'net, it looks like a thickness of around 2-2.5mm is optimal.

Does that sound about right?


Also, I have another top that's engelmann spruce that i'll use for my next next build; Should it be thicker/thinner/same as the sitka?


thanks
Click to expand...
 
My normal range for a Sitka tenor would be between 1.9 to 2.2 mm. Engelmann is usually a little lighter and more flexible that Sitka, so I would go a little thicker with it.

Brad
 
Bradford said:
My normal range for a Sitka tenor would be between 1.9 to 2.2 mm. Engelmann is usually a little lighter and more flexible that Sitka, so I would go a little thicker with it.

Brad
Click to expand...


Thanks - I think i'll aim for 2.0mm for the sitka and maybe 2.5mm for the engelmann.

Now, to find someone in my area with a thickness planer...
 
JamieFromOntario said:
Now, to find someone in my area with a thickness planer...
Click to expand...
Oooh - that's risky. To plane wood that thin in a planer, you need to stick it to a sturdy piece of plywood to stop it disintegrating. And then it'll be hard to peel it off the plywood.

I planed cedar once, so take my word on it. Both scenarios.

Find someone with a thickness sander, or learn how to do it by hand. (Or build a thickness sander. By hand.)

Good luck.
 
Michael Smith said:
Most planers will turn your nice top into tooth picks. You need a thickness sander.
Click to expand...


Thanks everyone for pointing this out.


I'll keep trying to connect with a cabinet maker or similar woodworker. Do you think that they would have thickness sanders?


thanks again,
~jamie
 
Allen said:
Absolute disaster is waiting for you trying to use a thickness planer with wood that thin.

Drum sander is what most of us will use. Otherwise it's hand planes and scrapers.
Click to expand...


In terms of doing by hand, I guess I'm looking at some hand planes (a scraper plane, perhaps)?

I'd be totally willing to try it; I like to work with hand tools and don't mind taking the time. My big questions would be on how to assess the thickness as I do the hand planing. I don't have any sort of calliper, and the ones i've seen on stewmac (http://www.stewmac.com/shop/Tools/Calipers/Thickness_Caliper.html?actn=100101&xst=3&xsr=16605) are awful pricey for me right now...
 
JamieFromOntario said:
Thanks - I think i'll aim for 2.0mm for the sitka and maybe 2.5mm for the engelmann.

Now, to find someone in my area with a thickness planer...
Click to expand...

At what amount of thickness reduction would those of you in the know begin using hand planes and cabinet scrapers?
 
I start from 3.5 - 4mm, then hand plane down to ~ 2mm.
When you purchase tone wood sets on ebay or other tone wood suppliers, usually they have sanded the sets to around 3.5-4.5 mm.
It is a lot of work using a hand plane. Very very slow, but eventually you will get there.
YMMV..
 
So, assuming I can't find someone with a thickness sander (and I do not have the money, space or skill to build one myself), what is my best choice for thicknessing these boards?

I've read that a scraper plane would be a good type to use. Or if there another type of plane that would work better? (please don't suggest that I use like three different types of plane or some such - I simply don't have the cash to purchase more than one)

Since I don't have a calliper to check thickness at different points on the board, how should I gage thickness? Using a ruler and straight-edge?
 
liam_fnq said:
There's a reason people who build with any sort of regularity spend stupid amounts on tools and machines. Even the hand tool purists have some pretty pennies invested in nice planes, chisels etc.

You can't build a nice uke on the cheap.
Click to expand...


I totally hear you on this. I am prepared to spend a fair amount on a plane, I just need to know which is the best choice assuming I can only get one.
I would love to have a larger house (with a garage) and a couple grand for tools (i just spent $500+ on supplies and fret pressing tools). I'm sure that over the next ten years, I'll get there.


Mzuch - I am trying to connect with such a group but haven't had any luck yet.
 
Start cruising Craigslist to get a good head start on some used tools. In the time being seek out a wood workers guild in your area or cabinet shop to help you out with some of the more tedious tasks. Plan ahead and get all the materials thickness sanded for several ukes. It should take less than an hour and will save you days worth of time, and you'll likely end up with a better product.
 
It shouldn't be all that difficult to find a local builder who has a drum sander either. They may be willing to thickness sand some pieces for you if you ask nice and show up with a slab of beer or whatever the going commodity is in your area.
 
How much does a caliper cost where you live? I can get a cheap digital for the eqv of 17 or 18 dollars, and a better non-digital one for about twice that. And a good caliper is nice to have.
 
Sven said:
How much does a caliper cost where you live? I can get a cheap digital for the eqv of 17 or 18 dollars, and a better non-digital one for about twice that. And a good caliper is nice to have.
Click to expand...

I've only looked on Stewmac so far for callipers - as you may have seen, they are quite expensive there.

You're right that I could probably get one at a local hardware store. (lo and behold:http://www.canadiantire.ca/AST/brow...00P/Mastercraft+Digital+Caliper.jsp?locale=en)

Does the one you got for $18 have long arms so that it can reach to the middle of a piece of wood (i.e.: top)? Or are these arms really necessary? Maybe you've got another method to check the thickness in the middle of a piece of wood...?
 
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