Some possible steps to make a cheaper ukulele sound better?

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Being a beginner, I decided to buy a "cheaper" uke to get the feel of it, see if I want to pursue it, etc. I had my heart set on a Hilo brand, but when I posted a question about sound holes, EVERYONE told me not to get a Hilo brand, and suggested better alternatives such as the Makala Dolphin, Kala or Ohana brand, etc. So I'm now exploring my options, but I've also heard you can make slight modifications such as changing the strings (I was recommended Aquila or Worth) or filing down the bridge to make the ukulele sound a bit better. Now obviously I am not looking to make a 50 dollar ukulele sound as golden as a 200$ one, I'm just looking for ways I can improve it. Any advice is appreciated, thank you.
 
Being a beginner, I decided to buy a "cheaper" uke to get the feel of it, see if I want to pursue it, etc. I had my heart set on a Hilo brand, but when I posted a question about sound holes, EVERYONE told me not to get a Hilo brand, and suggested better alternatives such as the Makala Dolphin, Kala or Ohana brand, etc. So I'm now exploring my options, but I've also heard you can make slight modifications such as changing the strings (I was recommended Aquila or Worth) or filing down the bridge to make the ukulele sound a bit better. Now obviously I am not looking to make a 50 dollar ukulele sound as golden as a 200$ one, I'm just looking for ways I can improve it. Any advice is appreciated, thank you.

Hello asleighsheila! Welcome to UU forums. You'll be gettin much more info than just mine from way more qualified folks here, I'm sure.

But, from what I've been reading, changing the strings is a good first step to making a less expensive ukulele sound better. And yes, the Aquila strings are probably the way to go. They cost less then say, Worth Browns. Also, a less expensive uke will probably have a higher action, i.e., the strings will be higher away from the fretboard, thus making it harder to hold them down where they need to be when you are trying to make a chord, so your fingers get tired and start hurting much sooner. So, to that end, one needs to 'lower' the action which entails basically what you said but a bit more involved. If you aren't feeling comfortable doing it yourself, get a luthier to do it for you. It will help. It consists of sanding the grooves where the strings sit in the nut to make the strings sit lower up there and the same thing at the other end. But, and this is a big but, you need to also make sure you have a level fretboard first 'cause if you try to lower the action without checking the level of the fretboard, you will wind up with a non-playable instrument due to the strings hitting the frets somewhere along the line.

This is why most folks will recommend a 'more better' (again, depending on who considers what a 'more better' one) uke to start because once you get done all this, you've probably spent the $$ you didn't want to spend in the first place. :D Good luck! and happy searching here, you'll find loads of answers.
 
If you buy a Kala or Ohana, and it comes with Aquila strings, the only thing you might have to do is possibly lower the action by sanding or filing the saddle down, generally they lift out, and you take material carefully off of the bottom a little at a time, being sure to keep the bottom flat. Worth strings are nice too and I have them on all my cheap laminates, I like the Browns because the lams are usually bright. You get two sets of strings in a Worth package so the cost is actually about the same as Aquilas.

This is done only if you need to, though most Chinese made ukes come these days with a very tall saddle. I pretty much always have to lower my saddle (the long narrow generally white piece inside the wooden bridge on the lower bout of the uke). I use a file and just rub the bottom of the saddle back and forth, and take some height off a little at a time. I check it on a flat surface every 30 seconds or so to make sure I'm keeping the bottom flat and the saddle standing straight and even. Then I check it by putting it back in (the same way it came out, always in the original direction) and tighten the strings up again to check clearance.

If you take off too much you will get a buzz when you fret the strings (push them down). You also don't want to change the angle so that one side is lower than the other. On more expensive ukes the saddle may be lower on one side on purpose, but on inexpensive ones they are usually straight across. Don't file the nut slots, usually they are fine and that can mess up the action of the first 1-3 frets. Then you have to fill the slots and re-file with more care. Frets will usually be fine on a Kala or Ohana. Lanikais can have issues.

All that said it isn't something I would worry too much about at first, but it is something that IF it is needed can really help improve playability. It can also mean needing to get a replacement saddle or shimming the old one if you go too low. A good little music store might do it for you for maybe $15-20 more or less and it would likely be well worth it, if it seems like someone there knows what they are doing.
 
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I'm with the others and lowered the action myself. Had to read up a bit and get the right tool, but it took my Lanikai LU-11 to a much more playable state. Once the strings stretched and were broken in things fell in to place. If you are a little apprehensive about doing this kind of work, I would suggest a local luthier instead.
 
Have you bought your ukulele yet? If not you could buy it from a supplier such as Hawaiian Music Supply or Mim and ask them to do a 'setup' on it and fit Aquila strings for you so it arrives 'good to go'. In my limited experience a good setup and decent strings can make a huge difference to a cheaper ukulele.

If you have already bought it do you know of a local luthier or shop who could do a setup for you?
 
Have you bought your ukulele yet? If not you could buy it from a supplier such as Hawaiian Music Supply or Mim and ask them to do a 'setup' on it and fit Aquila strings for you so it arrives 'good to go'.

Like HMS and Mim, Uke Republic does setups, has a good reputation, and is active on this board.
 
Almost all the "cheap" ukes usually need to have the action lowered some at the nut - while the action being high at the bridge is not good, it's tolerable. High action at the nut makes the first position chords terribly out of tune. Someone who is a complete newbie to music might not notice, but those around you will and, even if you don't yet have the ear to detect the problems, playing an instrument like that is one sure way to ensure that you never do develop an "ear." :)

So, in general, lower the action at the nut until the notes remain in tune when fretted lightly at the first fret. I.e. the E string plays F at the first fret, not F plus a few cents.

Only lower the bridge after you've got the action at the nut suitable (if the frets aren't perfectly level, having a high action at the bridge can make it possible to get the nut low enough without buzzing).

Best bet is simply to buy from one of the people mentioned above, though. They love ukuleles and newbies and they take the time to set up everything they sell so it is at least playable. The big box outfits just ship whatever box is next on the pallet in the warehouse.

John
 
Definitely buy from someone who will set it up and fit decent strings for you. Even if it costs a little bit more, it's worth it.

Being in the UK Hawaii Music supply or Mim would not be my choice, but the do have a good reputation. For UK go to Southern Ukulele store at Southbourne near Bournemouth.
 
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