The 'Scoop' done...

Pete Howlett

Pete Howlett

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I've done 4 of these and they don't get any easier. Gone up a power on my glasses to get stuff like this done. Anyway, the finished piece looks fine:)

PICT0041.jpg


Did something I never did before and that is finish the heel carve with a sharp knife. Why didn't I ever do this before? No forever sanding out the file/rasp scratches. Time to get a right handed Sabatier marking knife I think :)
 
Pete Howlett said:
I've done 4 of these and they don't get any easier. Gone up a power on my glasses to get stuff like this done. Anyway, the finished piece looks fine:)

PICT0041.jpg


Did something I never did before and that is finish the heel carve with a sharp knife. Why didn't I ever do this before? No forever sanding out the file/rasp scratches. Time to get a right handed Sabatier marking knife I think :)
Click to expand...

Looks great Pete
 
That looks very nice, Pete. Did you post how you did this and I missed it. I am considering a try at this. Just need kind of an idea how to go about it. Maybe you can point me in the right direction!? Thank you Danny
 
This is one 'secret' I'm not letting out the bag, probably the only one! Suffice to say it takes a steady hand and a Heath Robinson lash-up to glue the thing together and a certain precision and work regime to get it right. Apart from clean mitres, this is the hardest thing I do. There are far easier cutaways and if anyone works out how to bind this I'll give them a Mars bar (famous British candy):)
 
Beautiful Pete!
Reminds me of one my favorite guitar builders... LeGeyt
http://legeytguitars.com/models/model-b-b12/
His work is outstanding. Interesting, unique, perfect asthetical balance... much like your own.
I know there are many differences when building in the smaller scale of the ukulele. I always assumed that many things would be much more challenging. I would suspect a cutaway of this design is one of those cases.
Well done.
 
Pete,

Sorry for being dumb not sure what your showing.

If I'm cutting the binding/purflin ledge for cut-a-way instruments ( florentine or roll ) I'd use a dedicated binding cutter base and router and do all the ledges before the neck was set. If your talking binding the fret board I'd use a laser to cut the purplin slot or a violin purflin cutter on a roto tool.

Not sure what your speaking of please expound?

Kevin

binding_cutter_base_close_1.jpg
 
Kevin Waldron said:
Pete,

Sorry for being dumb not sure what your showing.

If I'm cutting the binding/purflin ledge for cut-a-way instruments ( florentine or roll ) I'd use a dedicated binding cutter base and router and do all the ledges before the neck was set. If your talking binding the fret board I'd use a laser to cut the purplin slot or a violin purflin cutter on a roto tool.

Not sure what your speaking of please expound?

Kevin

View attachment 41140
Click to expand...

It's a bevelled cutaway that's been lost in the shadows. A better pic would be helpful Pete.
 
Your wish is my command Chuck:

Finn1.jpg


I know the theory behind binding this, I just don't want to ruin a good job :) It's already got the last of some very expensive koa in it and I've trashed one similar set once this year already!

I'll just go and suck a few more eggs for grandma :)
 
I had to look up a Heath Robinson Lash Up. Now I know it is a improbable, unreliable mechanism. I see why you wouldn't want to share that. All of your other postings appear to me to be completely thought out. I have even build your dedicated mold and use it but not to the extent as you have. Glueing both top and bottom at the same time. Just kind of spooks me. Will you post more pictures? Thanks again, Danny
Wow, I no sooner replied and I see you already posted a picture! Thanks Again Danny
 
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Just lurking - it all looks beautiful......:drool: I hope your huge summer workload/internships are working out well! No need to respond - you're busy. Best wishes coming your way. :)
 
The latest issue of GAL mag has a step by step article on how to do this and an arm bevel- two things im also interested in. Pete (or anyone else), when the mag arrives ill send some photos if you want-
 
OK, Now I understand.

Our approach to do this would be to make a reverse mold and a positive and steam bend or heat blanket the physical part we needed to bend when it reached bending temperature we'd press between the molds. ( we make negative molds all the time and we got the idea from Frank Finocchio Guitarworks who makes all of his arch top guitars by using steam and pressing between two molds ).

Here is the idea shown with a guitar neck reverse mold and a violin reverse / positive mold. Lots of different ways to climb a tree....not sure how you did yours Pete.

Kevin

Reverse Mold 2.jpgReverse Mold 1.jpg
 
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