Router speed?

finkdaddy

finkdaddy

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I am using a Dremel with the router base and binding attachment from StewMac to route out my binding channels.
Even though I'm being very careful and going in the correct directions, I'm still getting a tiny bit of tear out on the upper bout.

I was wondering, is there a prefered speed that the router should be running? Is it better to run it faster?
Also, are there any other tricks that can be used to reduce the tear out?

Thanks in advance.

~Fred
 
In a regular woodworking situation where you expect tearout, you can run the router in the opposite direction with light pressure until most of the cut is done, then finish in the correct direction. You have to be careful because the router wants to take off and run with the bit.
 
Use a down cut spiral bit for cleanest cut. You will get better results with a laminate trimmer.

I start at the widest part of the bouts and 'go down hill' so to speak- ie On lower bout start at the widest part- rout towards the waist, stop. return to widest part- rout towards the butt, stop. Repeat on other side and on upper bout. Then I clean all with an angled scrape of wood with some 80 sand paper stuck to it (get the pre sticky stuff)- NEVER roll the edge of the binding/purfling channel, hence the "angled" wood
 
What Allen, bluesuke and Beau said... :agree:

I've also found that putting some shellac on the wood beforehand can help prevent tear out. I think it was Chuck Moore who suggested this a while back and it has really helped. Let the shellack harden well before you start routing.

And one more thing is to make sure your router bit is nice and sharp - when the bit starts to dull you'll get more tear out.

We use our dremel at 25.000 or 30.000 rpm, depending on the wood. I don't know if that's what's recommended, but it seems to work fairly well - YMMV.
 
I've used a dremel & now a Black & Decker on guitars & ukes for 35 years now, without trouble.
Yes, multiple passes are important, shellac sealing on troublesome woods, and a sturdy jig or holder is important. Always full speed.
The most important, in my opinion, is a new cutter. I buy a new one for almost every guitar, the large,square blade carbide from StewMac is my favorite.

Some dremels have a sloppy bearing, that can kill your work, the Black & Decker has a better bearing, runs smoother, is less expensive.
 
Personally I find the Dremel to be underpowered. I use a laminate trimmer. Allen's advice is good, I also use a gramil for scoring the cut and never have a problem.
 
Black & Decker "dremel like" $34.
http://www.amazon.com/Black-Decker-...&sr=8-2&keywords=black+and+decker+router+bits

Bosch Colt trimmer: $95.
http://www.amazon.com/Bosch-PR10E-S...=1347030751&sr=1-2&keywords=bosch+colt+router

I'm not arguing that the "dremel" is better than a laminate trimmer, only that, for an occasional ukulele build, a "dremel" works fine, and is less an investment. I choose the "dremel" because it is less powerful and more controllable. When a powerful tool gets out of hand, it can do a lot of damage quick.
 
I'm not going to have a pissing contest over the price of tools in America vs. Australia. That would be pretty stupid. You'll notice that in my post I stated "where I am".....................

As for the second point, I find that heavier, more stable tools are more controllable, with no real correlation to the Watts rating of the machine.
 
We use laminate trimmers for almost everything. The faster speed and more sturdy, heavy base is worth it. Our routing station at the downdraft station has 10 or so, set up for each different routing job. When I route for purfling, I go backwards for a few inches on the upper bout, against the direction I am "supposed" to go. Then, back the proper way. This tends to reduce tear out.
 
I recently bought a new Makita laminate trimmer that has a metal body and weights twice what my other laminate trimmers weight. I have 3 now and 3 routers. it makes a huge difference in the performance. The extra mass seems to even out any of the chatter and what not you get with a lighter tool.

I do have a dremel, and would hate to even consider using it for bindings. Just not a suitable tool for that task as far as I'm concerned. Much better to use a gramil and a chisel if that was the only choice I had.
 
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