I need help on applying finish on my ukulele
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chrimess
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An easy, healty and cost-effective way is True-Oil but you will not achieve a high gloss.
Okay I did some research on the tru oil and I found that it is recommend to be use with Birchwood Casey Sealer and Filler.
How many layers of the sealer and filler should I apply before applying the tru oil?
I'm using Hawaiian Koa.
Jonathan
chrimess
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A lot of folks just wet sand to 600 and use the dust on the first coat of the oil w/o filler-really depends on the effect. Ii'd recommend no more than one filler coat and around 5 on the oil.there are some threads on this here.
Rick Turner
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This subject has been beaten to death here. I advise learning how to search archives.
Another answer is to send it to a specialist in finish work like my pal, Addam Stark. Many pro luthiers do this. I can guarantee you, it will take you a lot longer to achieve a really good finish...one that rivals Martin or Collings or, dare I say it, mine...than it took you to build the uke. The learning curve is steep and long.
Another answer is to send it to a specialist in finish work like my pal, Addam Stark. Many pro luthiers do this. I can guarantee you, it will take you a lot longer to achieve a really good finish...one that rivals Martin or Collings or, dare I say it, mine...than it took you to build the uke. The learning curve is steep and long.
Michael Smith
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You should be able to do a pretty good french polish if you read up on it. With darker wood like koa you don't need to be as good at it as with a spruce toped uke. You will need to pore fill first.
Kekani
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Last I checked (okay, actually did), there's a learning curve with French Polishing as well.
I disagree with "you don't need to be as good" especially for a noob. To me, doesn't matter what kind of wood, a good gloss finish will show everything. Besides, it'll take much more work to french polish koa than spruce, especially if there's figuring.
And there is no cheap and effective when it comes to gloss finishes, but just do what Rick said, search, and it'll save all of us from repeating. Ooops, sorry, the cheapest effective way has been stated - hire someone else to do it.
To give an idea of cost - I just moved to Abralon and one 2-pack cost over $12 each (got three different grits). There's almost $50 (with shipping) just for the polishing between the final coats and the buffing wheels. Very effective.
Cheap? In the big scope of how much time it saves and the result, actually, yes. You may not agree. Especially since the finish is now up $50 a gallon (not counting everything else you need to along with that).
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David Newton
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I love french polish shellac, it is all I do, but I wouldn't advise it on your first instrument, unless you just want to mess with finishing for the next 6 months.
Do the search for Tru-oil finishing here and read up. You don't need the fillers or anything else, just use the Tru-oil, and fill with sanding dust. Get your cycle going, putting on some coats and leveling, repeat. If you give it some time to cure after the last coat, you can polish up a pretty good gloss with rubbing compound, like Mequires 7.
Do the search for Tru-oil finishing here and read up. You don't need the fillers or anything else, just use the Tru-oil, and fill with sanding dust. Get your cycle going, putting on some coats and leveling, repeat. If you give it some time to cure after the last coat, you can polish up a pretty good gloss with rubbing compound, like Mequires 7.
be sure to very carefully prep the instrument prior to the first coat of oil. This means no scratches at all, all edges broken (no sharp edges, just gently radiused everywhere, not excessively, but consistently) and of course, absolutely no visible glue discoloration anywhere.
For oil, sanding with Abralon pads up to (or past) 1000 grit prior to oiling is not excessive. I go way past that. With the Abralon pads, you should be able to put the uke body on a soft pad, and use a random orbital on the back and top. Doing your prep 'up front' will yield big benefits as opposed to trying to catch it up on the way.
For oil, sanding with Abralon pads up to (or past) 1000 grit prior to oiling is not excessive. I go way past that. With the Abralon pads, you should be able to put the uke body on a soft pad, and use a random orbital on the back and top. Doing your prep 'up front' will yield big benefits as opposed to trying to catch it up on the way.
I just finished my first uke build ( a customized mahogany Stu-Mac kit) and finished it with Tru-oil. One app of sealer and 7 coats of finish. Cost less than $20 and I've got enough left over for several dozen more projects. I consider it to be quite glossy. In fact, after it cures for a few months, I plan to dig out my 30 yr old box of rottenstone and bring the gloss down a bit. To me, the great thing about an oil finish is that you can experiment with it and usually get back to where you were. I'm certainly not a luthier, only a senior citizen woodworking hobbyist. In the 50+ years that I have been destroying perfectly good wood, I have found that there are many, many methods of finishing and most are excellent depending on the application. Just as in horse racing, most people have their favorite. Find your own favorite, but most of all, enjoy the learning process.
bigdog1002
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I found a great forum post on applying Tru-Oil using a coffee filter.
http://www.reranch.com/reranch/viewtopic.php?t=40577&sid=efbe7e638500a2c8353ff0265f150861
Scroll down to the long post from RayRay.
http://www.reranch.com/reranch/viewtopic.php?t=40577&sid=efbe7e638500a2c8353ff0265f150861
Scroll down to the long post from RayRay.
erich@muttcrew.net
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I have the feeling "coffee filter" may not always refer to the same product, in any case I doubt the coffee filters we have in the house would do a very good job. What we do is use woven cotton fabric, from which we cut small rectangles. An old bed sheet will last for ages.
Duke of Harbord
Active member
Basically the process David mentioned, is the best way of doing it. I would also finish, after the rubbing compound with some 'Dr Ducks Ax Wax'. It's one of the best polish's/buffing polish to use, no silicons and you can use it on the whole instrument. You should be able to get it at most musical instrument stores for under $10.
Rick Turner
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Speaking of Gibson...when I worked for Gibson Guitars, the number crunchers told me that about 1/3 of the labor hours spent on the average guitar in production was for finishing, and that's at a company that is really set up to do it. Finishing at a professional level is not easy nor quick.
jcalkin
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Tru-Oil is both under and over estimated, or appreciated. It is capable of the finest high gloss after it gets good and hard. Its also pretty good for anyone who just wants to wipe on/wipe off a coat or two and call it quits. However, Min-wax satin wipe-on poly is a better quick finish with open pores, and works well if the first coat or two is sanded in with 320 grit. Professional stuff? No. Presentable? Yes. Its seldom mentioned that Tru-Oil sprays like a dream but takes a knack, since you only get one pass without forming runs and curtains. There are better products to spray, but many gunsmiths are fixated on Tru-Oil.
It took me years to realize that the finish type doesn't matter much, its a matter of putting enough on to wet sand it to a fine surface and still have enough left on there to buff. Tru-Oil is great 'cause you can do it in the living room if its clean enough (don't flop down on the couch while the oil is still wet!), and in the l-o-n-g run can look professional. If you have no professional aspirations don't go for the gloss. A shiny surface full of open pores, dust mote bumps, and hair isn't going to impress anyone.
Twenty years ago Birchwood-Casey (the Tru-Oil guys) changed their wonderful Stock Sheen from a great polish to an abrasive because shiny guns went out of style. I haven't used it since, but if you want to cut the gloss it works better than 0000 steel wool.
It took me years to realize that the finish type doesn't matter much, its a matter of putting enough on to wet sand it to a fine surface and still have enough left on there to buff. Tru-Oil is great 'cause you can do it in the living room if its clean enough (don't flop down on the couch while the oil is still wet!), and in the l-o-n-g run can look professional. If you have no professional aspirations don't go for the gloss. A shiny surface full of open pores, dust mote bumps, and hair isn't going to impress anyone.
Twenty years ago Birchwood-Casey (the Tru-Oil guys) changed their wonderful Stock Sheen from a great polish to an abrasive because shiny guns went out of style. I haven't used it since, but if you want to cut the gloss it works better than 0000 steel wool.
dave the slave
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i dont understand what the coffee filter is supposed to be used for?
jcalkin
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I don't either, unless its used to strain the Tru-Oil before application. It gets crap in it from the dreck that dries on the bottle lip and cap. A small cotton rag is the way to go.
Red Cliff
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Another option that I have had some good results with and a very durable finish is Rustins Plastic Coating - I have heard of a number of guitar makers in the UK using it.
http://www.rustins.eu/Details.asp?ProductID=857
You can even pore fill with it and finish all in one.
http://www.rustins.eu/Details.asp?ProductID=857
You can even pore fill with it and finish all in one.
rudy
Well-known member
You can punch a small hole at one edge of the cap seal (don't remove it) and then just squeeze outy Tru-Oil directly on your rag or pon. Wipe any excess off the surface before putting the cap back on. You can use the whole bottle without developing any hard bits.
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