An Inexpensive Finger Plane

saltytri

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This little ebony plane doesn't cost much but does what it is supposed to:

http://www.fastcap.com/estore/pc/viewPrd.asp?idproduct=12934&idcategory=0

I modified it to work well for shaping braces. The sides were thinned and angled at the bottom so that the iron cuts in close to the base of the braces. This is easily done on a belt sander. The thumbscrew was replaced by a longer metric screw threaded through a hex coupler. This isn't really necessary but does improve the ability to grip and tighten the screw. Of course, the iron needed some TLC to get a good edge.

The length is 3 1/2" and the width after modification is 7/8".

It may not be an Ibex but it does about the same job for a lot less.

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Pete, how do you shape them? I had thought that it would be more difficult to do this before gluing because the little pieces would be fiddly and hard to hold.
 
Disc sander - easy peasy. Back braces are shaped using the Veritas cornering tool...
 
I also preshape all by braces before they are glued on. After you build a 100 ukes or so, you come to understand that the bracing pattern you are using requires a certain height, thickness and shape. It is much easier to make the brace before gluing and it saves lots of time.
 
Shaping before bracing is the way to go, of course. On the other hand, braced tops come to me with some braces unshaped at H&D, and I use a 3/4" chisel to shape them. No big deal, and no toy planes. But the chisel has to shave hair off my arm or its not sharp enough. The weight of the chisel is a big help in careful use. Uke braces are no different.
 
"toy planes"

That made me laugh out loud! Of course you're right, John. You guys who have been doing it for a long time can use a simple tool and a flick of the wrist to do something that confounds me.

Thanks for the tip.
 
John, I totally agree re. using fairly hefty...and sharp...chisels. You get a lot of control with some mass there. My faves are some very good Japanese bi-metallic ones that I got in Japan many years ago plus a set my dad gave me about 25 years ago.
 
I also preshape all by braces before they are glued on. After you build a 100 ukes or so, you come to understand that the bracing pattern you are using requires a certain height, thickness and shape. It is much easier to make the brace before gluing and it saves lots of time.

How much of the shaping do you do prior to gluing the braces on? Do you actually do any of the ramps prior to glueup? I haven't seen one of your ukes close up so I'm not sure what your braces look like. If the back braces are pointed on top in the center between the ramps how would one get the go bars to work using the fiberglass rods with the vinyl tips?
 
How much of the shaping do you do prior to gluing the braces on? Do you actually do any of the ramps prior to glueup? I haven't seen one of your ukes close up so I'm not sure what your braces look like. If the back braces are pointed on top in the center between the ramps how would one get the go bars to work using the fiberglass rods with the vinyl tips?

All my braces are complete, ramped and sanded before they are glued on. I don't use go bars, don't like them. I use cam clamps and long steel U shaped clamps. I've never had a problem.
 
All my braces are complete, ramped and sanded before they are glued on. I don't use go bars, don't like them. I use cam clamps and long steel U shaped clamps. I've never had a problem.

Thanks Duane. I'm familiar with cam clamps. By chance did you make your own U shaped clamps or are they commercially available? I have a few of these lying around that I haven't really been using. They might work.

http://www.highlandwoodworking.com/shopfoxaluminum6deepcclamp.aspx

There are many ways to skin a cat and your approach may just save some time.
 
Thanks Duane. I'm familiar with cam clamps. By chance did you make your own U shaped clamps or are they commercially available? I have a few of these lying around that I haven't really been using. They might work.

http://www.highlandwoodworking.com/shopfoxaluminum6deepcclamp.aspx

There are many ways to skin a cat and your approach may just save some time.

The clamp you selected in the link is a bit too heavy. I do have that clamp but only use it for gluing on classical guitar bridges. I have made most of my cam clamps years ago and they are still going strong. The U shaped deep throat clamps I bought years ago from Stew-Mac. They came in 3 different depths. I bought a dozen of them and they have worked fine. They don't care that clamp any more but have replaced it with a different style, but it does have a deep throat and should work as well.
 
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