Buying a Grizzly Kit and have some ?'s

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nozzle

nozzle

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Hey all. I'm thinking of buying a grizzly kit. Okay I'm not. I've thought about it and I'm buying a grizzly kit. I want one that I can build myself and sort of use as a beater if you know what I mean. I'm fairly handy but, have never built an instrument before. Getting the action and intonation right seems to be a real challenge. I have scoured the board here and haven't really found the answers, in fact I think I now have more questions. I'm just going to list those and hope someone has some answers for me.

1. I have a Kala Ukedelic. It sounds pretty tinny and not a lot of resonance ( I think it's the finish) but, what really bugs me is the first fret. The distance between the first fret and the nut is actually about a third smaller than the distance between the second fret and the first. This is annoying as I have fairly long fingers and trying to cram them in there for a Dm7 or E6 is a bitch. I've seen several videos where the intonation was off on a uke or guitar and they essentially moved the nut closer by widening it or adding a peace infront of this. How do I avoid doing this?

2. Lots of discussion on whether to glue the saddle on before or after finishing. It seems easier to finish if the saddle isn't in your way. However I don't want to measure for the saddle finish it glue the thing in i's spot and find out the intonation is off because, well I got it wrong. Is it possible to clamp the thing in place set the nut in place then string it and check for intonation? Once I have it perfect then mark it and tape the spit off? If so I think I know how I would go about it but, would like some input if you have any suggestions.

3. Finishing. This doesn't need to look like the Mona Lisa or anything but, I do want it to look nice. I really don't want to do the whole french polish thing. Would a plain old (when I say plain old I mean a decent) urethane work on it, with a clear coat or two over it to keep it safe and shiny?

I've built some furniture and stuff and did fairly well but, most people don't care how the furniture sounds when your done. This is my very first attempt at building an instrument. I figured a kit was the way to go and with the price of the Grizzly kits I don't have to feel guilty over wasting money if it turns out like complete crap.

Thanks for reading I know this is a little extensive but, I like to get my ducks in a row before I start shooting (saves on ammo):drool:
 
nozzle said:
Hey all. I'm thinking of buying a grizzly kit. Okay I'm not. I've thought about it and I'm buying a grizzly kit. I want one that I can build myself and sort of use as a beater if you know what I mean. I'm fairly handy but, have never built an instrument before. Getting the action and intonation right seems to be a real challenge. I have scoured the board here and haven't really found the answers, in fact I think I now have more questions. I'm just going to list those and hope someone has some answers for me.

1. I have a Kala Ukedelic. It sounds pretty tinny and not a lot of resonance ( I think it's the finish) but, what really bugs me is the first fret. The distance between the first fret and the nut is actually about a third smaller than the distance between the second fret and the first. This is annoying as I have fairly long fingers and trying to cram them in there for a Dm7 or E6 is a bitch. I've seen several videos where the intonation was off on a uke or guitar and they essentially moved the nut closer by widening it or adding a peace infront of this. How do I avoid doing this?

***You've got to be kidding. Or you've got a major warranty issue on your hands...

2. Lots of discussion on whether to glue the saddle on before or after finishing. It seems easier to finish if the saddle isn't in your way. However I don't want to measure for the saddle finish it glue the thing in i's spot and find out the intonation is off because, well I got it wrong. Is it possible to clamp the thing in place set the nut in place then string it and check for intonation? Once I have it perfect then mark it and tape the spit off? If so I think I know how I would go about it but, would like some input if you have any suggestions.

***OK, you don't seem to know the difference between a saddle and a bridge. Not a good sign...

3. Finishing. This doesn't need to look like the Mona Lisa or anything but, I do want it to look nice. I really don't want to do the whole french polish thing. Would a plain old (when I say plain old I mean a decent) urethane work on it, with a clear coat or two over it to keep it safe and shiny?

***Please do some homework. Your question here is beneath answering until you do... This subject has been done to death here.

I've built some furniture and stuff and did fairly well but, most people don't care how the furniture sounds when your done. This is my very first attempt at building an instrument. I figured a kit was the way to go and with the price of the Grizzly kits I don't have to feel guilty over wasting money if it turns out like complete crap.

***It's going to be a piece of crap unless you replace the top with something decent.

Thanks for reading I know this is a little extensive but, I like to get my ducks in a row before I start shooting (saves on ammo):drool:
Click to expand...

***You can get your ducks in a row if you do the work to do so. There is so much information here, and you've done so little to access it that it is just unbelievable to me that you've spent any time at all on this section of this forum on this site.
 
Umm yeah thanks

Well thanks Rick that wasn't really helpful to me. I spent 3 hours on here looking for information on kits last night before posting. It was confusing to say the least as everyone seemed to have different ideas on what to do. Also there are posts saying yeah I finished building my kit but no one talking about how it was to build it. I apologize for mixing up the bridge and the saddle. have you built a Grizzly Kit before? I sort of wanted to talk to someone who may have actually had the kit in their hands. I do appreciate the advice on the top though. That does make sense. I did read that someone replaced the top and found the bridge support to be cheap and not very conductive sound wise. Also I realize that it is a plywood uke so not expecting miracles.
 
First off , welcome to UU!

I have built one, literally threw it in the fire a year later. it was better that way. You gain little experience building one. the body, neck and fretboard are all done for you.
I would look for a building class, they pop up from time to time, to gain a real experience of building a ukulele.
Buy a makala or a rogue if you want a beater.
Just trying to help.
 
"...wanted to talk to someone who may have actually had the kit in their hands." True confession - that would be me. My first dip into the vast sea of uke building was the Grizzly kit. I did a bit on it and threw it away. It probably won't teach you much and, if you persist and finish it, you'll have a laminate instrument of poor quality even if your work is done carefully.

"...with the price of the Grizzly kits I don't have to feel guilty over wasting money if it turns out like complete crap." A better path would be to build a kit by Stew-Mac or Hana Lima. These use solid wood and, generally, better components and materials. You'll spend more and get a lot more, in terms of both knowledge and quality.

There is a wealth of information already posted here and you'll find that your questions will be helpfully answered.
 
Thanks for the info.

I actually kind of want a laminate uke. I know it doesn't sound as nice as solid wood. I've played guitar for 25 years so I do know a little bit about picking an instrument. The problem with solid wood is that it is greatly effected by temperature and humidity. As I said this would be a beater instrument. It would probably live in my car, in New England, in the summer and winter. I know this isn't a nice thing to do to any instrument but, that is the truth of it. I'm not sure how the solid wood will hold up to that kind of abuse. I may go with Brian's suggestion and replace the top on a grizzly. I actually after posting this last night found a thread by Bradford on building a laminate uke from scratch. Definitely something I think I can do. I have a wood shop and all the stuff I believe I would need. I can certainly make his side bending jig with what I have in scrap. Part of the reason for me to build one is that besides having some fun I need to occupy some time while I am rehabbing from surgery. I loved playing Ukes so much I thought Why not build one. Again my concern would be getting the intonation right.
 
i've built a few of these for fun. just follow the included instructions and your intonation should be fine. one piece of advice is just to go ahead and throw away the strings that come with the kit. buy some branded strings like Aquilas and you'll have a playable uke. not a great sounding one obviously, but definitely playable. experiment with the finish. if you jack it up, it's only a $25 kit.
 
As for your question about getting intonation right. When you buy a kit that has all the components essentially built for you, then you are left with relying on those components that need to be spot on to actually be spot on. Now, you wouldn't think that would be so much trouble, but I've read enough threads about the Grizzly kit to think that the either quality control may take a back seat to getting them out the door, or the people that are building them have little to no idea of what they are doing when it comes to this rather important part of the build.

Now, when it comes to leaving any instrument in the car through the seasons, it doesn't matter one bit if it's a laminate or solid wood. Too hot is going to destroy glue joints. Too cold and dry is going to split wood. Even laminates can be effected. And if you are thinking of switching the top for a solid one, then even more so. For the people that do repairs, we see this happen all the time.
 
Allen said:
As for your question about getting intonation right. When you buy a kit that has all the components essentially built for you, then you are left with relying on those components that need to be spot on to actually be spot on. Now, you wouldn't think that would be so much trouble, but I've read enough threads about the Grizzly kit to think that the either quality control may take a back seat to getting them out the door, or the people that are building them have little to no idea of what they are doing when it comes to this rather important part of the build.

Now, when it comes to leaving any instrument in the car through the seasons, it doesn't matter one bit if it's a laminate or solid wood. Too hot is going to destroy glue joints. Too cold and dry is going to split wood. Even laminates can be effected. And if you are thinking of switching the top for a solid one, then even more so. For the people that do repairs, we see this happen all the time.
Click to expand...

Thanks Allen. That is very useful info. I really didn't think about the glue itself. As for the cold well I'm in new England about an hour from the shore. It never gets dry here so I'm not worried about the wood cracking so much as warping and having the sides pop off. I figured that laminate would be more stable that way.
 
So basically you want a mil-spec uke.

Let me suggest the following wild hair project. It will cost more than a Grizzly kit and will depend on your scrounging skills.

Find the build threads and get the plans for the Youthalele.

Build the body/sound box using formica (a High Pressure Laminate HPL) and epoxy glue. No finishing to worry about. Don't try the minute stuff.

For the neck, Try and find a block of Micarta, or a similar phenolic resin Laminate. It is bullet proof although an internal neck stiffener might be needed. Or Klingspor/wooworking stores sometimes has the thick laminate sticks of something similar to Dynawood. Made of 1/16"laminated beech(?).

As to the fretboard, that I'm stumped on. i would venture to just put the frets into the micarta and maybe try and harden the fretboard with CA glue. With a bit of effort, fiberglass glue, bluejeans and clamps you can make a reasonable facsimile of micarta. Youetube has several videos on this.

It ought to take a wide range of environmental conditions. Getting the bridge located is always a challenge. Maybe check this forum for a freestanding bridge so you could move it to sound best.

Yeah it's crazy and not exactly what you asked for, but it is intriguing. Lord knows what it would sound like.
 
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I built a Grizzly a few years ago and really enjoyed it. I added a bone nut and saddle, and I inlaid a MOP star on the headstock. I think it is a good kit to start on, I learned alot doing it. I finished it with clear laquer.
It sounds OK nothing to brag about. Its a good way to get your feet wet.
 
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I've built two Grizzly kits already, one per their instructions, and one customized with a spruce top and bloodwood bridge and fingerboard. They send you pretty decent instructions on how to place the bridge. I wouldn't worry about it. Just follow the instructions, and don't rush the assembly, and you'll be fine. The suggestion for the youthalele is a good one. I built 26 of them, and the instructions from Bradford Donaldson are great. He also gives measurements for accurate placements of frets and bridge.

Dan
 
Gyozu said:
So basically you want a mil-spec uke.

Build the body/sound box using formica (a High Pressure Laminate HPL) and epoxy glue. No finishing to worry about. Don't try the minute stuff.

For the neck, Try and find a block of Micarta, or a similar phenolic resin Laminate. It is bullet proof although an internal neck stiffener might be needed. Or Klingspor/wooworking stores sometimes has the thick laminate sticks of something similar to Dynawood. Made of 1/16"laminated beech(?).
Click to expand...

You've basically just described the Martin OXK.
 
A block of Micarta for the neck? WTF? That is nuts. Do you even know what Micarta is? I doubt it...

I have to say, I'm starting to get discouraged here at the "Luthier's Lounge". We're getting more and more absurd posts by amateurs who think they know what they're talking about but who haven't done or won't do the homework needed to be considered as a peer in discussions here. Once again, I'd love to see a section on the UU for professional luthiers and amateurs who have paid their dues and who aren't here to give bogus advice and shoot off their virtual mouths with ridiculous statements and ideas. There's enough bullshit on the Internet without it being smeared here as well...

And I'm sorry, but considering putting a Grizzly kit together as luthierie is an insult to the folks here who are actually uke builders. If you're going to build a kit, at least get it from StewMac or Hana Lima. Then you have a chance, at least, of making a real instrument.

Yeah, every now and then I get to be Bad Rick...the curmudgeon of the Ukulele Underground...someone here has to call it like it is...
 
Rick Turner said:
A block of Micarta for the neck? WTF? That is nuts. Do you even know what Micarta is? I doubt it...

I have to say, I'm starting to get discouraged here at the "Luthier's Lounge". We're getting more and more absurd posts by amateurs who think they know what they're talking about but who haven't done or won't do the homework needed to be considered as a peer in discussions here. Once again, I'd love to see a section on the UU for professional luthiers and amateurs who have paid their dues and who aren't here to give bogus advice and shoot off their virtual mouths with ridiculous statements and ideas. There's enough bullshit on the Internet without it being smeared here as well...

And I'm sorry, but considering putting a Grizzly kit together as luthierie is an insult to the folks here who are actually uke builders. If you're going to build a kit, at least get it from StewMac or Hana Lima. Then you have a chance, at least, of making a real instrument.

Yeah, every now and then I get to be Bad Rick...the curmudgeon of the Ukulele Underground...someone here has to call it like it is...
Click to expand...

Just think of the crap that would get passed off as "knowledge" if "Bad Rick" and the other real pros weren't around.

I for one, like and appreciate reading "Bad Rick's" comments.
 
<rant>

You know what ? Why not just say the hell with it, and make this section of the forum private and invite only. That way the pros can sit around and swap tales about the good old days, before noobs started trying to build Ukes.

</rant>
 
The Big Kahuna said:
<rant>

You know what ? Why not just say the hell with it, and make this section of the forum private and invite only. That way the pros can sit around and swap tales about the good old days, before noobs started trying to build Ukes.

</rant>
Click to expand...


I think the pros just want us noobs to do our due diligence and research for ourselves before we ask a question that's been answered previously. Often multiple times. If you've followed this thread for a good amount of time you'll see a pattern of a new, self proclaimed "luthier" posting advice (that is usually wrong), arguing with the seasoned pros who do know their stuff, and then disappearing after singing the praises of Titebond III.

Can you imagine having a massive wealth of knowledge on a specific topic that happens to also be your passion and then having people spread misinformation about the topic? Basically what happens here. I've asked several questions in the LL, and I've received great insight and information every time, but I did my homework first. By doing my homework, my question(s) got very specific and with the information I learned on my own I was able to discern the helpful information from the noob like me who decided they should chime in with their two cents.

I've learned quite a bit from the pros in the LL, and I'm thankful they're here.
 
Wow , didnt realize I was insulting anyone by building a Grizzly kit.
I thought I was just having fun. Sorry about that. I planned on a StewMac kit , but thought I would make my mistakes on the Grizzly and then go on to the Stew mac kit. No one should ever build one but if you dare to I would suggest grain filling before finishing ( I didnt do that but wish I had) and I would suggest after finding the proper spot for the bridge to drill two small holes in the saddle channel and through the top for positioning pins
so you can find the spot easily. The Grizzly is a soprano. I wonder if " Bad Rick" has ever built a soprano. :p
 
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I agree with Rick... Sometimes people should not give advise if they don't know what they are talking about. I'm not trying to be harsh but there is a lot of information out there and if you want to do something right you need to put some effort in to it. Try to learn as much as you can before starting a build even if its a kit
 
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