how to cut a uke neck with only hand tools

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banjolelebsi

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Hi all

I have made 3 necks so far and each one is improving so i guess i am doing something right.

When i get to cutting out the heel shape i get stuck. I use a coping saw to cut the curve for the heel but end up struggling and having to do a lot of sanding and rasping afterwards to remove a lot of wood leftover from the saw cut.

Is there an easier way to achieve a decent neck profile using just a handsaw, coping saw, rasps and sandpaper?

All help appreciated.

Regards

Simon
 
I'm no expert by any means, but I bought a spoke shaver a while back and it reduced my neck-building time considerably.
The chisel is a good one too. But if you think it is sharp enough, it's probably not. Get it very sharp.
 
You should be able to cut your necks with a dovetail saw and a rasp.
I like the Japanese pull-cut saw for cutting the dovetail. You should be able to cut the rest with a rasp, I like the "dragon rasp" small, coarse teeth.
If you add a coping saw, you can hog out a lot of the heel and shaft shape, before going at it with the rasp.
If you add a chisel, 3/8" width you can cut the cheeks into the shape of the sides, and help fit the neck.
The rest is sandpaper, 150 grit, for fitting the neck to the body.
 
I've used a combination of spoke-shave, rasp and chisels to shape necks. I'm guilty of not making sure the spoke-shave blade was sharp enough for the task. I got very frustrated with the chattering etc. I was sharing my frustration with Gordon from Mya Moe and he turned me on to Microplanes. This tool is a dream. I've used it to shape maple, mahogany and spanish cedar necks and it cuts through them like butter. I purchased a set that had a course, fine and round blade.

If you look in the kitchen maybe your wife has one hidden away as they are used for zesting lemons and limes. I borrowed my wifes first and was a belieiver. Placed an order right away.

http://www.hartvilletool.com/product/2012/microplane-files
 
If you've the guts, start with a really sharp drawknife, next go to a well tuned spokeshave, and then to a Nicholson #50 rasp. That'll get you within 80 grit sanding range. Cut a thin strip of cloth backed 80 grit, clamp the neck so you can get all around it, and use the strip of 80 grit like a shoe shine rag taking care to move up and down the length of the neck. Then switch to sanding with the grain.
 
Rick Turner said:
If you've the guts, start with a really sharp drawknife, next go to a well tuned spokeshave, and then to a Nicholson #50 rasp. That'll get you within 80 grit sanding range. Cut a thin strip of cloth backed 80 grit, clamp the neck so you can get all around it, and use the strip of 80 grit like a shoe shine rag taking care to move up and down the length of the neck. Then switch to sanding with the grain.
Click to expand...

Rick, the magic words here are "well tuned". It would probably take me a lifetime just to get the drawknife and spokeshave up to task.
 
Not a chance I've got the guts to go with the wife's kitchen microplane. Kinda like if I found her coring apples with my chisels........
 
Personally, the micro plane was one of the biggest wastes of money on tools I've spent. I bought it on the recommendation of some people on a guitar forum. A complete waste of time and effort compared to a good set of rasps.
 
If I understand you correctly, you're looking for a way to rough shape a neck blank before carving or sanding the final shape. If you don't have access to a bandsaw one way to ease things would be to drill holes at strategic places close to the profile. Then the narrow saw blade of a hand held coping saw can turn without getting stuck. I have done that but can't find any pics of the exact scenario. But what I suggest is very similar to what I did before making a cut with the band saw when I made a pineapple mould:

bild-762083.jpg

When you have the profile roughly shaped you can proceed with hand tools. Draw knives are very good, I have one with straight handles but I'd like one with angled ones. Check out some posts I made a little over a year ago, they can be found here:

http://argapa.blogspot.com/search/label/Neck carving

Original thread here on UU (where you can get some ideas how not to do it my way):
http://www.ukuleleunderground.com/forum/showthread.php?56484-Neck-carving-the-fun-and-fast-way

Neck carving is one of my favorite steps, and I can afford the luxury of working slow because I have a well paid day job and do not rely on making ukes to make a living. If you whittle a neck free-hand take good care of your left hand. I just cut a knuckle really bad when carving some really hard wenge the other day. Kevlar gloves ordered.

Good luck / Sven
 
It's only a ukulele neck...Not a dugout canoe :) Stop whinging and get stuck in.
canoe.jpg
 
Allen said:
Personally, the micro plane was one of the biggest wastes of money on tools I've spent. I bought it on the recommendation of some people on a guitar forum. A complete waste of time and effort compared to a good set of rasps.
Click to expand...

I agree! I'm only using a spoke shave and rasps to shape my necks. Micro Plane was an exercise in frustration.
 
Flyfish57 said:
"Posted by Allen: Personally, the micro plane was one of the biggest wastes of money..."

I agree! I'm only using a spoke shave and rasps to shape my necks. Micro Plane was an exercise in frustration.
Click to expand...

I like the Microplanes, but here's the thing: the ones for woodworking cut on the push stroke, the ones you buy at a kitchen store cut on the pull stroke. As much as I can tell they are identical otherwise. I prefer them on the pull stroke like I prefer a pull saw over a push. So for me, using the Microplane on the pull stroke gives a nice, smooth, controlled cut. And it will take a neck down in short order.

(and yes of course you can buy them without a handle and cut in either direction)
 
I always finish off the heel and volute with a rasp, then a second cut 1/2 round file and sand to finish..Never had the need to use a plane or a spokeshave.
 
Allen said:
Personally, the micro plane was one of the biggest wastes of money on tools I've spent. I bought it on the recommendation of some people on a guitar forum. A complete waste of time and effort compared to a good set of rasps.
Click to expand...

As in all things there are many ways to skin a cat and with any craft we all search for what works best for us. And that's never going to be the same thing. But I've tried with rasps and they just gouge and leave deep file marks but for me the microplanes (and I'm not talking about a cheap Stanley microplane which I have and it is worthless) make very quick work of it without leaving the harsh marks behind.
 
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A milled-tooth file leaves a finer surface and cuts as fast as microplanes. I've tried one of a friend's and was really impressed. As for me, I prefer using a draw knife, a knife ,a scraper, and a spokeshave, seldom use my microplanes.
 
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