Pre1932 Martin 2 but no bids? Whazzup?

Nicko

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There's currently a fairly nice looking Martin 2 from at latest the early '30s on eBay looking for a starting bid of $599...and at least the second posting of this instrument. Any idea why no one cares to bid at that level?

It's got a crack from the bridge back, but it looks like it would be a snap to repair.

I'm not in the market, but am curious as to why no bidders. Thoughts?

:confused:
 
By the way...neither do I have any idea who it is who is offering this uke. I have no interest in the sale other than curiosity about why bidders are staying away in droves.
 
To keep the bidding price low, all the experienced buyers wait for the last hour or less... that way you don't pay an over inflated price...
only new bidders make the mistake of early bidding....he he
 
Hi Nicko, I think your asking for theories so here is mine: Unless you are a collector or are someone experienced in buying and having damaged instruments and really know what your doing, I think a lot of people just steer clear. I would wait until something undamaged came up but that's just me. My Martin, Collings, etc I would not have bought if they had any damage. Took me some waiting to get what I wanted and I got a great deal but did have to pay quite a bit more BUT I'd rather put the money into something that does not need any work. That's why I never bid on cracked or even repaired instruments. Just a personal thing.

I am sure everyone has their reason, but that's mine. My buddy on the other had has purchased and bids on ones that have needed repair and now that they are fixed, they are great instruments, and he's ok taking that risk of getting something never played that is damaged. Many style 2's have sold in the 650-820 range on Ebay without damage. Thus, another theory is it's worth about 400-450 bucks and will need a few hundred dollars or work from a luthier, so 600 seems high for a damaged Style 2M. 2k's on the other hand go upwards of 1800 now without damage..or have sold on Ebay for that much.

Take care,

Of course, but nobody bid on this the last time it was listed, either.
 
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Hi, Nicko. Imonethat oesnt,ind quake with a crack. I have a few, and love them. A couple were fixed before I bought them, a couple I fixed.

There's something about a bridge area crack though that to meis different. It's under tension. It cracked there, perhaps,not due to dryness, but due to a stress tension. This will require a special repair, with cleating and experience.

I have none, so I avoid it.
 
Hi, Nicko. Imonethat oesnt,ind quake with a crack. I have a few, and love them. A couple were fixed before I bought them, a couple I fixed.

There's something about a bridge area crack though that to meis different. It's under tension. It cracked there, perhaps,not due to dryness, but due to a stress tension. This will require a special repair, with cleating and experience.

I have none, so I avoid it.

I'm with Steve; anything that might require a cleat, or even cracks on the front--I avoid. Back cracks are less of a big deal unless they are huge.

BTW, someone got a great deal on a really clean Favilla soprano last night. Under $160.
 
I wonder if it is partially because the bridge/ saddle area looks alittle funky. Low on 1st string and high on 4th string??
 
Thanks for your thoughts, all. I'm doing a little very minor weekend luthiery myself (with apologies for even using the word where actual luthiers might see it and just shake their heads to hear someone like me let it slip from my lips -- virtually speaking). But I'm not ready to experiment with very limited and very amateurish skills on a Martin 2 from the '30s (and 6 bills). I do have a Kamaka heading my way that I'm going to have a crack at (pun intended). But that was about half the money and is half the crack.
 
$600 is just too much to risk on a Martin with obvious issues, IMHO. Curiously, the seller would be better off to start the listing lower and use a reserve - that at least might bring a couple of early bids and get rid of that big "0 bids" red flag. It's silly, but often all people need to push them over the edge to bid, and then become attached to and overbid, on an item is the knowledge that someone else thinks it's worth looking at!

John
 
... seller would be better off to start the listing lower and use a reserve - that at least might bring a couple of early bids and get rid of that big "0 bids" red flag. It's silly, but often all people need to push them over the edge to bid, and then become attached to and overbid, on an item is the knowledge that someone else thinks it's worth looking at!

Makes good sense. I think I've finally learned that a good approach is to determine how much I'd feel good about paying for an item and put that number in on my first bid...then just walk away and stay out of future bidding wars. Bidding wars can bring emotion into the price setting in ways that aren't helpful (or economical).

What makes me crazy is putting in a "Best Offer" on a "Buy it now" item and having it accepted right away! ARGH!
 
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