Taking a Ukulele Building Class

One of my local community colleges has several instrument building courses including a ukulele building class, and I am planning on attending.

I own a ukulele, and love them, but I really don't know too much about building them. The class lets you build anything you want from scratch, so I was looking for advice for what materials to use.

I currently own a Lanikai concert uke. I've been wanting to get a tenor resonator uke for a while, so that's what I really want to build in the class.

I was thinking about using quilted maple for the top and back, and flame maple for the sides. I'm not sure about the neck or fretboard yet though. I want to make sure it sounds as good as it looks, so input on the wood choices would be awesome.

Also, is there any good places to get the resonator cone and whatever other things I would need for that part of the build? I have the general idea of how resonators work, but I don't really know all the parts needed for it.

I'll try to keep you guys updated with progress from each class after it starts. Thanks in advance for any advice.

I'd keep it as inexpensive as possible for the first and I probably wouldn't start with a rezo for the first. My 0.02 anyways

There is no way in the world that I'd start with a resonator as my first build....ever.

Easiest instrument to start with would be either a concert or tenor. Go with woods that are easy to work and finish and don't cost a fortune. That means that anything with wild figure should be approached with caution. You have to learn how to walk before you can run, and without a doubt there will be things that go pear shaped along the way.

tanks for da idea. i just googled instrument building classes near where i live now and turns out theres one about an hour away... not bad. im still looking into the colleges to see if they get one at a school in/around dallas, tx area

resoman said:

I'd keep it as inexpensive as possible for the first and I probably wouldn't start with a rezo for the first. My 0.02 anyways

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Price isn't much of an issue because all the materials are covered with the price of the class.

Also, I wouldn't say I'm anywhere near an expert or anything, but I know my way around a wood shop. I may have never built an instrument before, but I've built plenty of random things including furniture and even a trebuchet and ballista.

quartersawn Mahogany front, back sides. Indian Rosewood fretboard. Or, some simple quartersawn Koa instead..

My first one does not live up to what I want, as far as sound quality, par for the course from what I understand... study bracing techinques shown on this forum, and elsewhere, as much as possible. Clean execution of simple woods, and a decent sound will be a huge reward, if you can pull it off.

If you want some fancy art, put it in something simple, like a bound fretboard, maybe a sound port (careful) maybe a fancy peghead veneer.


My personal style likes to dive in deep, so I started thinking about fancy stuff.. I have no regrets, but in hindsight, the voice that says keep it simple.. those are very wise words.

Chris_H said:

quartersawn Mahogany front, back sides. Indian Rosewood fretboard. Or, some simple quartersawn Koa instead..

My first one does not live up to what I want, as far as sound quality, par for the course from what I understand... study bracing techinques shown on this forum, and elsewhere, as much as possible. Clean execution of simple woods, and a decent sound will be a huge reward, if you can pull it off.

If you want some fancy art, put it in something simple, like a bound fretboard, maybe a sound port (careful) maybe a fancy peghead veneer.


My personal style likes to dive in deep, so I started thinking about fancy stuff.. I have no regrets, but in hindsight, the voice that says keep it simple.. those are very wise words.

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yep- i wouldn't bind it- punch through the first one to get your woodworking chops up see if you like the whole process, then go by all the extra stuff associated with binding.

Good inlays n things here- http://www.luthiersupply.com/productspage.html

Resonator ukes are tricky for the first time because there aren't any plans available that I know of. Getting the cone and saddle at the right height and location Are critical. The construction isn't really harder than a normal uke but the inside details would be tricky without a reference or experience.
Maple is a good choice for bending and finishing. Check out Republic Resonators for cones and cover plates

Allen said:

There is no way in the world that I'd start with a resonator as my first build....ever.

Easiest instrument to start with would be either a concert or tenor. Go with woods that are easy to work and finish and don't cost a fortune. That means that anything with wild figure should be approached with caution. You have to learn how to walk before you can run, and without a doubt there will be things that go pear shaped along the way.

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hey Allen..
I was thinking of taking the Hanalima build class..my question is what if only build one uke ever..do you think I should try some nice wood just in case I never do it again?

I can see your point about walk before running..but it might be my only build in ever do..thxs

hawaii 50 said:

hey Allen..
I was thinking of taking the Hanalima build class..my question is what if only build one uke ever..do you think I should try some nice wood just in case I never do it again?

I can see your point about walk before running..but it might be my only build in ever do..thxs

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I've checked into that class and I think they build with Koa by default. Same with the guy who teaches the two week class on the Big Island (can't remember his name, but I've seen a uke from his class. beautiful)

gyosh said:

I've checked into that class and I think they build with Koa by default. Same with the guy who teaches the two week class on the Big Island (can't remember his name, but I've seen a uke from his class. beautiful)

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so Gary you saying just in case go ahead and spend a little extra on the wood..I not as bored as I thought I might be so might only build one uke..if by accident it comes out ok I would like some nice wood on it haha
thxs

hawaii 50 said:

so Gary you saying just in case go ahead and spend a little extra on the wood..I not as bored as I thought I might be so might only build one uke..if by accident it comes out ok I would like some nice wood on it haha
thxs

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Unless things have changed since last year, I'm pretty sure the wood is included in the price of the class. I've seen a few samples and all the wood has been very nice . . . not as figured as your customs, but you can't expect that in a build class.

gyosh said:

Unless things have changed since last year, I'm pretty sure the wood is included in the price of the class. I've seen a few samples and all the wood has been very nice . . . not as figured as your customs, but you can't expect that in a build class.

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thanks Gary..
the Hanalima class has non Koa included in the price..I think sapele.walnut and mahogany I think? but no Koa or something like Milo etc..
so I was thinking of upgrading that way..next class in April...

thanks no word on your CR?

hawaii 50 said:

thanks Gary..
the Hanalima class has non Koa included in the price..I think sapele.walnut and mahogany I think? but no Koa or something like Milo etc..
so I was thinking of upgrading that way..next class in April...

thanks no word on your CR?

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Not since the neck got sent to Robinson sometime last week.

gyosh said:

Not since the neck got sent to Robinson sometime last week.

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must be close..make sure you send some pictures to me,,I am just excited to see it as you are!
btw I put a picture of my CR on the uke p*** thread..