New joining jig and straight edge

DavidA

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Loveland, OH & Key West FL
After thinking about building a joining jig, I came up with a good design. The nice thing about this jig is that it allows flexibility. The other cool thing is that I can use it as a straight edge for routing the back strip.

A spacer allows the cams to be locked in position, yet move freely to lock or unlock. I used slick tape on the table and hold-down clamp. None of the glues I tried stick to it.
 

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That's a bit of genius right there! I love reading these threads and seeing 'inventions' like this! This place really is a gold mine for all manner of brilliant stuff and makes for fascinating reading, whether you're a builder or not!

Well done and thanks for sharing :D
 
You might want to check out the totally fixtureless system of using brown heavy duty masking tape (the kind LMI sells for binding) as both a hinge and for clamping tension. The nice thing is that you can center join one or dozens of backs and tops in one session with no need for tooling. I've had twenty tops and twenty backs all glued up at once. And totally irregularly shaped pieces are no big deal.
 
Hi Rick,
Would you mind sharing a few tips on that procedure? For instance, do you just use tape across one side as in a reverse tent or do you tape the seam on the other side also. Do you weight the center or clamp a bar on the center?
Ken

BTW, nice gadget there DavidA...:cool:
 
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Now THAT is a slick fixture!! Its simple enough to assemble with basic skills and tools and then get great performance. I think its time for me to upgrade my plate gluing equipment
 
tape works great.. anchor on one plate, pull taught and anchor the other end. For a uke sized plate, 3 courses of tape are fine (on each side), one at the top, middle, bottom, not exactly at the ends, but where it feels right. Carefully flip by sliding to the edge of the worksurface, not letting the plates hinge open. Repeat process on the back side. No need for a joining jig.
 
and I am not sure you need the heavy duty binding tape. I have used blue tape, green tape, probably white tape somewhere in the past when there was no other tape around. The joint should be tight fit when dry, so little pressure is actually needed.
 
Fixtureless System

You might want to check out the totally fixtureless system of using brown heavy duty masking tape (the kind LMI sells for binding) as both a hinge and for clamping tension. The nice thing is that you can center join one or dozens of backs and tops in one session with no need for tooling. I've had twenty tops and twenty backs all glued up at once. And totally irregularly shaped pieces are no big deal.

I think you are absolutely right. My mind went right for the fixture. Though I did have a lot of fun!
 
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