Ukulele Building the Hard Way

I'm not being sarcastic or mean. You can bet your life you will see some interesting stuff as he rolls out this project. Matthias is the sort of guy who sits in an R&D department, has 1000 ideas a year, one of which is pure thought and absolute genius. We may disagree with his complete left of field approach but his original source isn't that reliable....2mm thick side? I don't think so Ralph... Frankly I'm surprised he didn't find a way of micro waving that wood because to me, that is the obvious engineering solution.
 
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It is rather odd that he chose to use the table saw to generate the top and sides when he has a bandsaw available. It will be interesting to watch his progress.
 
That's just wonderful. It's obviously a goof. What's funnier though are the YouTube comments of people who are also falling for his clever prank.
Either that or he's never read a book or knows about the Internet. Simply priceless, right down to the flat sawn wood. I can't wait to see the rest.
 
I will not laugh at this - this would be me. I am trying to figure out ways to do some of these things on a very unaccommodating budget. I want to make my own design, but I have no tools to easily accomplish that goal and so I am brainstorming and scouring the internet and library for info to help me. Some of it is not very traditional, but mostly I'm finding that I am doing things that have been tried with success before, just in a more difficult way. That is why I am taking it slowly and trying to learn from you guys rather than inventing my own methods. (Although I might be too stubborn to take good advice like starting with a kit) :)
P.S. if you read this, Sven, do you have plans for that ad hoc thickness sander that used a rolling pin and a power drill? I know it gave you some fits but it seemed to get you through at the beginning.
 
Seriously Tho!... The over compensated mold that allows for spring back...I've been thinking of doing that! when I next upgrade my Fox bender cos' it makes sense:agree:
 
I just watched the whole thing, and while there are obviously better ways to go about what he's doing, you can't argue that he got results.

I was rather impressed on how he worked out the required amount of over bending to achieve the shape he wanted. I've just tried to guess in the past, and then touch it up on the pipe. But now I'm thinking a bit more math might be the go.
 
Taylor did it by trial and error. However, springback will surely be different for each wood type wouldn't it?
 
Mark EB said:
P.S. if you read this, Sven, do you have plans for that ad hoc thickness sander that used a rolling pin and a power drill? I know it gave you some fits but it seemed to get you through at the beginning.
Click to expand...
I thought I had a plan, but it was more of a sketch, and it's in swedish... And it doesn't show the most important part - the drill has to be attached to the bench. I took a piece of a cheapo drill press gizmo for hand-held drills that went around the collar of the machine. Then I had a large wooden block of the exact correct height under it and clamped it to the bench. So the drill didn't wobble when it was running.

Actually I think the pics on my blog give better guidance than this sketch.

planputs.jpg
 
I must have magical wood. I don't understand this spring back you're all talking about. I only get it if i dont get rid of all the moisture in the wood. Bend correctly and you won't have it.
 
Mark,
you can see mine here:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fusKt4B5GTo
http://www.ukulele.fr/forum/index.php?topic=10219.30planggpc.jpg
Pdf and dwg drawings available.
Just ask.
Bye,
Gerard



Sven said:
I thought I had a plan, but it was more of a sketch, and it's in swedish... And it doesn't show the most important part - the drill has to be attached to the bench. I took a piece of a cheapo drill press gizmo for hand-held drills that went around the collar of the machine. Then I had a large wooden block of the exact correct height under it and clamped it to the bench. So the drill didn't wobble when it was running.

Actually I think the pics on my blog give better guidance than this sketch.

View attachment 51532
Click to expand...
 
If I leave the wood in the bender to cool no springback. However I hand bend first and then use the form to 'set' the bend for symmetry. I do it this way because I like controling the bend and the sense of satisfaction that I have 'overcome' the natural desire of the wood to be straight! Sopranos get the full blanket treatment - no springback if left overnight in the bending form.
 
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