Glue application questions

Shame on me for not bookmarking Rick's chart of where he uses what glue, a link would be appreciated. But my question is how do you apply PU glue? The stuff can be an incredible mess. The other question is what considerations change if a vacuum press is being used? I have vacuum pressed most of the current uke I am on.

I have been spreading the PU with a spatula, but still have used too much a few times, I am thinking like a toothed grout spatula could be helpful. I vacuum pressed the laminated sides and the glue did not squeeze out, but stays in making my sides have a slight curve.

I remember that Rick uses PU for headstock veneers as there is no reason to add moisture to that area and the foam out is easy to clean. How would doing this in a vacuum press where moisture is sucked out affect that issue?
Is there a re-acclimation time or a don't vacuum this part issue as a result of the moisture getting pulled out? My first tries with breather mesh only on one side made the wood really cup when joining the plates. I since have been using the breather stuff on both sides. Or is it useful to throw some plates in the vacuum to lower moisture before installing, I have heard of baking plates, wouldn't this be similar?
Thanks Rick for the great list.
Rob

Hot hide glue
Center seams for tops and backs
Gluing braces to tops and backs
Bridges on acoustic instruments
Kerfing for acoustic guitars and ukes
Tops to sides on acoustic guitars and ukes
Repair and restoration work where strong and nearly invisible glue lines are needed

Traditional, and still a favorite for many lutherie jobs. May have tonal benefits because of how hard it cures. Has better heat resistance than Titebond and other “carpenters’ glues”. Very low cold creep. Only good for well fit joints. Reversible with moist heat. New glue reconstitutes old so good in repairs of previous HHG glue work. Sands to powder, and thus not loading up of gunk on sanding belts

LMI white glue
Peghead scarf joint
Most assembly of semi-hollow guitar bodies

This glue (I believe it to be a polyvinyl acetate..PVA) has the convenience of Franklin Titebond and other “carpenters’ glues”, yet cures much harder and seems to have some of the favorable qualities of hot hide glue. It is known for low “cold creep”, a possible real factor with regard to tone and the need for neck resets on acoustic guitars.

WEST Epoxy
Laminating necks
Fingerboard joints

Developed initially for the purpose of making cold molded yachts by the Wood Epoxy Saturation Technique. Cures hard and very clear; great for bonding difficult to glue woods; does not introduce water into the glue line; joints can be taken apart with heat if need be.

Smith & Co. CPES ( Clear Penetrating Epoxy Sealer )
Primer for wood finishing…pre-sealer

Smith & Co. laminating and layup epoxy...a good alternative to WEST

Franklin Polyurethane
Center block to tops on semi hollow Renaissance guitars
Laminating layered “skate boards” for “back strap” peghead overlays

I generally do not use any water with the PU glue, and so it’s great for gluing the centerblocks onto cedar, spruce, or other wood tops as the glue line does not telegraph through very much. With peghead overlays, again, the lack of water makes for a stable layup without subsequent shrinkage as you’d get with the LMI white glue or HHG.

Thin Superglue
Frets
Inlay dots
Some polyester finish repair
Some binding work
Some quick repairs

Take care with accelerator as it can cause foaming of the glue. Works well with baking soda as a temporary nut slot filler when the slots are too deep.

Thick Superglue
Inlay
Some binding work
Quick repairs
Making jigs and fixtures
Bonding carbon fiber to wood

Duco and other acetone based glues
Binding (plastic/celluloid)

Thanks Terry, and thanks Rick, great list.

No prob, I keep it handy!